'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs...

[Kristian j]

Interesting coincidence!

The Minx has now been taken out into the sun from a 10 year old hibernation.
The funny thing is, I have also tried to changed a part of the front wing then. Notice the not-so-clever result. Notice the difference between the amateur (me) and the skilled one (Frizzle". I will make a new try.

The wing has met a truck, but obviously the body is reasonable strong. It did only wrinkle the front part.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Kristian j

I have also tried to changed a part of the front wing then. Notice the not-so-clever result.

That's not so bad. It looks better than what was hiding under mine. At least you tried. That's more than 99% of people out there would have done. If you try again just take your time. It will be easier to fit the new panel if you cut perpendicular and/or parallel to body lines and contours. The horizontal cut can be made under the trim.

[Frizzle Fry]

Latest pics (you can't rush perfection ) Not done - Just wanted to give you the latest since it's been a few days:

[Frizzle Fry]

Here's the evolution of metal finishing the top of the fender. This process used three tools: Hammer/Dolly, Flat file, DA. That was the basic order of operations; Since the joint was mostly low I gradually raised it.

1. Check for low spots and knock down weld peaks with a flat file
2. Raise low spots via body hammer
3. Erase file marks with a DA
4. Repeat

A couple of pits required filling:


Top done (except that little dent near the front - I'm keeping it )


Grille Surround:






Done:

[Frizzle Fry]

Next up was filling all those factory holes in the floor. Most of them are about 1" dia. and had metal plugs. Must have been for locating in the stamping process..?

Making the disc blanks. Hart_Rod should take note that I've moved on from using washers




Then while preparing the areas for welding I got into the groove of cleaning the floorboards (ADD kicked in) and I just went with it.

I hear hand-scraped floors are choice these days:












I hand scraped them because the factory goo was so thick in places the it filled the floor contours. It made too big a mess with the wire-wheel. Now that the majority is removed I'll hit it with the power tools.

[-Greg72]

Looks great!

If you can stand the smell, Brakeleen will remove that residual asphalt goo really well....

I usually buy brake cleaner by the case, just be careful of the fluid soaked rags. A few sparks from a grinder or flap disc and you've got real problems.



(not that I'd know anything about that).


-G
Posted via Mobile Device

[Kristian j]

I suppose you have a appropriate rev-counter for the dashboard?
Or are you going to redesign everything with modern dials?

[Sub-versive]

Killer work as usual Mike! Work of art!

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by Kristian j

I suppose you have a appropriate rev-counter for the dashboard?
Or are you going to redesign everything with modern dials?

OH,he has dials that have dials that are driven by dials. And I'm not being funny! Somewhere there are pictures of the old dials, the new dials, the connectors, and the intermediate dails.

On another note, what is uncertainty of your butt-gauge? Is it NIST traceable? Certifications? Can you tell I work in a calibration lab?

[mcbassin]

So close! Yet so many little loose ends to tie up I am going to boot it out of the shop soon. Taking it to get blasted. The seam sealer I've already put down shouldn't be affected. If it is oh well. Then it will either come back to my shop for a few last touches or go to the paint shop. I am in discussions with a painter who will allow me to assist and learn

That's cool the painter will let you work with him on it. This is a pretty small car you guys should be able to knock it out quick. Looking forward to updates. One of my favorite builds on this site.

[dammitmitchell]

you diddnt dry ice and scrape?

[mcbassin]

Super job grafting the new fender piece. You are getting close. Are you going to paint it yourself?
Posted via Mobile Device

[76C10Stepside]

Nice work as always. Since it's a British car, aren't you OBLIGATED to fill with LEAD???

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by dammitmitchell

you diddnt dry ice and scrape?

Not familiar with that. I know about dry ice blasting

Originally Posted by sparkydog

Your butt-gauge better have good resolution and repeatability if you want to measure to milliradians! How often is it calibrated?

It's self calibrating

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Super job grafting the new fender piece. You are getting close. Are you going to paint it yourself?
Posted via Mobile Device

So close! Yet so many little loose ends to tie up I am going to boot it out of the shop soon. Taking it to get blasted. The seam sealer I've already put down shouldn't be affected. If it is oh well. Then it will either come back to my shop for a few last touches or go to the paint shop. I am in discussions with a painter who will allow me to assist and learn

Originally Posted by 76C10Stepside

Nice work as always. Since it's a British car, aren't you OBLIGATED to fill with LEAD???

Right! I actually have a lead-free body solder kit from Eastwood. Hopefully I don't need much filler on this car.

[Kristian j]

Next up was filling all those factory holes in the floor.

But,but, then the water will not disappear

[Frizzle Fry]

Is that the idea? So you can hose it out? Or do they have that little faith in the seals? Plus they were all sealed up with plugs covered in goo.

[Kristian j]

The "goo" underseal, isn't that supposed to be under the car? And it is supposed to be rubber plugs!
Anyway. After the family has been on the sunday trip in the rainy British countryside the driver (the father usually) says:

Remove your plugs and let the water out

[Kristian j]

Stop Press!! Have found about the dashboard #419
Forget what I said....

But on the other hand, I have the oil presure, water temp. Am-meter in a typical-for-that-period cromed gauge-holder so I can have that big rev-counter.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Kristian j

The "goo" underseal, isn't that supposed to be under the car? And it is supposed to be rubber plugs!
Anyway. After the family has been on the sunday trip in the rainy British countryside the driver (the father usually) says:

Remove your plugs and let the water out

They were all metal, all the same, and look factory. In fact they must be since they were sealed top and bottom. But they're gone now

Originally Posted by -Greg72

Looks great!

If you can stand the smell, Brakeleen will remove that residual asphalt goo really well....

I usually buy brake cleaner by the case, just be careful of the fluid soaked rags. A few sparks from a grinder or flap disc and you've got real problems.



(not that I'd know anything about that).


-G
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks Greg! I like carb cleaner. Don't have to worry about welding fumes from it like you do with brake cleaner (bad things).

Originally Posted by Sub-versive

Killer work as usual Mike! Work of art!

Thanks Man! You've been along for the long haul on this one

Originally Posted by ERASER5

OH,he has dials that have dials that are driven by dials. And I'm not being funny! Somewhere there are pictures of the old dials, the new dials, the connectors, and the intermediate dails.

On another note, what is uncertainty of your butt-gauge? Is it NIST traceable? Certifications? Can you tell I work in a calibration lab?

Thanks brotha! Don't get me started on NIST... You have a good memory about the gauge system. It's NSX needle actuator in stock Smiths Housings driven by the Acura Cluster PCB... Gauge mayhem starts here And a pic of the final config (actually the tach needle was trimmed to look more like the others after this)

Originally Posted by mcbassin

That's cool the painter will let you work with him on it. This is a pretty small car you guys should be able to knock it out quick. Looking forward to updates. One of my favorite builds on this site.

Yes it is cool of the painter. And a great learning opportunity for me. Unbelievable how for the scope of this project has drifted... But it's all fun and will be worth it in the end, whenever that may be...

Originally Posted by Kristian j

Now there is a cylinder head where the heater is supposed to be. No heater then?

Man, you have some reading to do

Heater posts:
here
and Here

Originally Posted by El Campo

Looking beautiful as usual.
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks!

[El Campo]

Looking beautiful as usual.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Kristian j]

Man, you have some reading to do

Good heavens! You are working faster then I am reading!!!

[Kristian j]

I have started from the beginning several times, but I also have to go and work on my own projekt,
Then I forgot where I was, Will make a new try!!
By the way, where can these small rev-counters be found?

[El Campo]

Frizzle when you say "knock down weld peaks with a flat file" do you mean that you file off the peaks or something else (like a slap file)? Sorry for the elementary questions, just hoping to gain some insight to assist me on my own project.
Posted via Mobile Device

[watahyahknow]

you can bent these files to by lengtening the screwed part to follow the bulge

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Kristian j

I have started from the beginning several times, but I also have to go and work on my own projekt,
Then I forgot where I was, Will make a new try!!
By the way, where can these small rev-counters be found?

This is the exact one I used

Originally Posted by El Campo

Frizzle when you say "knock down weld peaks with a flat file" do you mean that you file off the peaks or something else (like a slap file)? Sorry for the elementary questions, just hoping to gain some insight to assist me on my own project.
Posted via Mobile Device

No problem. I'm filing them down with a flat file.

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

you can bent these files to by lengtening the screwed part to follow the bulge

Looks interesting. Got a link?