Cab swap, how much work?

[texanidiot25]

This summer, I need to tackle the rust. But, the amount I have around my windshield, in my kick panels, in the cowl... rockers... is way beyond my skills, and I don't want to ghetto rig anything. My passenger a-pillar is destroyed near the roof basically, there's a rust-threw hole at the lower side of the same one, the passenger rocker has split in 2 pieces, and one is about to fall off, along with that the spot weld at the cab broke too. Driver's side is just fair, but in a years time I see it pretty bad. i have 2 leaks under the dash, through the seam sealer which has rusted the seams. My drip rail looks like hell too. Kick panel on the passenger side is rusting unerneath the vent, and the kick panels are starting to rust fro the river of water that comes through when it rains.

Needless to say, someone with no welding and body skills should not take this on right now. My best option really is to get a less rusty cab, and drive off with that. My question is, about how much labor and time does it take to swap cabs? The truck is fairly sparse on the inside. I have found a guy who has 2 good cabs for 500 each (gotta save up on them). I'm just wondering how long it typically takes to swap cabs. What's some of the tricky and difficult parts of the swap too.

Thanks.

[Hart_Rod]

With a little help and preparation, you should be able to do it in a weekend. Make sure the new cab is the same as your old one, ie air/ non air, gas pedal cable or rod, the 67/68's have a different ebrake pedal and cable. I'm sure there are some more differences, but that's all I can think of right now. If you plan it out right, it shouldn't be to painful.

[texanidiot25]

About how many people does it take to lift? I probably can't get access of a lift (my dad's work wouldn't appreciate a truck with no body in their fine Cadillac shop) and even getting an engine hoist could be iffy unless I can afford to "rent" one from autozone.

[Green Machine]

Done it couple of times with 4 people, 2 beefy guys can do it, but 4 is better. Strip the cab down as far as possible, the cowl side is heavier, put the stronger guys up front and use gloves, those edges are hard on fingers.

[Sammy]

Depends on the helpers and how thirsty they can get. Might do it with 4 guys and 2 -12's. If you done all the prep work in advance: doors, seats, basicly gutted. Figure a days work total.

[386kustoms]

i would use a engine hoist i bought one from harbor freight for around 150. the thing is once you have a hoist you can always use it and you will never regret buying it or a cheaper rout is if you have a garage that has the beams visable take a couple come-a-longs and strap it around the pillars. use seat belt material it wount ruin the cab and is strong enought to pull a house down

[Hawker7]

Originally Posted by 386kustoms

i would use a engine hoist i bought one from harbor freight for around 150. the thing is once you have a hoist you can always use it and you will never regret buying it or a cheaper rout is if you have a garage that has the beams visable take a couple come-a-longs and strap it around the pillars. use seat belt material it wount ruin the cab and is strong enought to pull a house down

I agree. I bought a crane at Harbor Freight on sale for under $100. It has been invaluable with removing the cab, bed, and engine by myself. I also used it to remove/install the doors.

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by texanidiot25

About how many people does it take to lift? I probably can't get access of a lift (my dad's work wouldn't appreciate a truck with no body in their fine Cadillac shop) and even getting an engine hoist could be iffy unless I can afford to "rent" one from autozone.

Heck bring it over here. We have a trailer if needed.We can knock it out in a short time

[texanidiot25]

have a garage that has the beams visable take a couple come-a-longs and strap it around the pillars. use seat belt material it wount ruin the cab and is strong enought to pull a house down

I wouldn't trust my roof to hold the cab, the passenger A-pillar is iffy. I only have a "maybe" access to a free hoist from my dad's work. Same one I used to drop my motor in. But that's always up to the manager there.

Heck bring it over here. We have a trailer if needed.We can knock it out in a short time

How much would labor be? I'd gladly stick around and do the most work as well, and the truck can drive out there and carry the cab in the back.

I'm a student with no cash, so you get where I'm coming from lol.. I have 2 projects I want to get done this summer and that's an OD trans and this rusty cab. So I've gotta pray I can afford even the cab in time. And then maybe work in a budget paint job by the end if we can get a better compressor here at home.

Good news is I finally got a job back again so in a week or so, once I pay off my insurance I can start saving up.

[lks dcvn]

agree on the hoist (I bought one at Sam's and have used it for several things just because I had it handy) - and be careful - I would hate to be one guy holding the rusty side and have the metal that you are holding onto give out (depends on how bad it is).

[67ChevyRedneck]

I wonder if the sunroof is the culprit behind your Texas cab being shot?

My dad and I did a complete body/engine/transmission swap on an 86 toyota truck (frame was shot from rust) in about a week. Two weekends and working on it after school.

Get the old cab completely stripped down and bare. Since you'll have the "time" I'd recommend removing all of the old sealant under the dash and other hard to get to areas at this time, put some good rust paint on it (rustolium is pretty cheap) and then put new 3M sealant in there. Check the link in my "Vintage Air" thread in my signature to see pics of under my dash. If the dash still has the wiring in it, it would be a good time to decide which wiring looks to be in better shape.

[oldblue1968chevy]

dang lol i found a needs rust work cab for 30 bucks lol ima try to get it and fix the rust then put it on truck lol good thing its only like.....15 miles away!