Two trucks, one choice...

[jrwild]

Ok, so i'm probably too new at this for my own good but...

Looking to buy my first C10 this weekend and i've narrowed it down to two trucks..

First is a 1972, not too much rust (i'm told), LWB with a V8 350 and a 350 transmission.. PB, PS and A/C cab. He's asking $2,500 and owns 2 other C10's "First two pictures"


Second is a 1970 CST (Seller said it's a 72), Looks like surface rust only (based on pictures), LWB with V8 350 and auto (not sure which), PB, PS and A/C cab. Looks like small body damage on front right and hasn't run in couple of years. This is grandchild of original owner. She's asking $1,000. Is it possible i'm wrong and this is a 1972 truck? I'll see the VIN tomorrow to check for sure, but based on the front end it must be a 1970. "Last three pictures"


My dilemma is that i was leaning towards getting a 72 but the 70 seems too good to pass up.. The first guy told me that the 72 C10 had a wider rear axle/is that true? Either truck i'm planning to tear down and do a frame up resto. For a starting point the second truck is more in my financial comfort zone.

So the big question, which one should i get?

[danw210]

Take the one with the least amout of rust/rot. Just about everything is interchangable so the year doesn't really matter.

[Papa Smurf]

The grille & glovebox say its 70 not 72. Couldn't see mirror. If it's mounted on the windshield it could be 72. If mounted on the roof its 70. Either way $1,000 is a good starting place. Fenders are easy to find.

Papa Smurf

[67ChevyRedneck]

The second truck has a "70" grill... so probably a 70?

The major difference between the two is that the 70 will have a 6 lug rear axle and 6 lug drum brakes all the way around.

The 72 will have 5 lug disc front brakes and a 5 lug rear axle. Much more popular for the "modern" wheel choices. There are kits to swap the 6 lug stuff for 5 lug.

Personally, I'd really look them over REALLY good. Pull the window rubber down along the top of the windshields (on the inside), look at the drip are above the doors (with the doors open), look at the rust in the door bottoms, fender bottoms, etc, and look under the cab really well and decide which truck you are more comfortable with restoring.

The both look nice to me.

[Papa Smurf]

Also, door panels say 70/71

[Chevymann1968]

I say get Both LOL then you wontr ah mental distress of "MAN I SHOULD HAVE BOUGHT THAT OTHER TRUCK"

[jrwild]

Great info.... thanks guys... I'd take both but the 'mental distress' from wife for buying two trucks would be worse...

[red71c10]

I'd buy the green one!

[Chevymann1968]

Originally Posted by jrwild

Great info.... thanks guys... I'd take both but the 'mental distress' from wife for buying two trucks would be worse...

LOL I hear you on that one!!!

Ernest

[silverstreak]

I'm glad I'm not in your shoes, I hate making decisions like that. My advice is this, if you're on a budget, buy the one that is in the best mechanical shape that way you can drive it while you fix it up.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Since the colors are essentially the same, is there any chance you could disassemble them both in the garage without the wife figuring it out? Then magically in a couple years you have two trucks

[68350]

I would buy the 70 just because it's a fancier truck and anything the 72 has can easily be switched over. The rearends width is SLIGHTLY different I do believe. Just make sure to look them both over very well. Rust is a lot harder to fix than say a fuel pump IMO.

[ETsC10]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

The second truck has a "70" grill... so probably a 70?

The major difference between the two is that the 70 will have a 6 lug rear axle and 6 lug drum brakes all the way around.

The 72 will have 5 lug disc front brakes and a 5 lug rear axle. Much more popular for the "modern" wheel choices. There are kits to swap the 6 lug stuff for 5 lug.

Personally, I'd really look them over REALLY good. Pull the window rubber down along the top of the windshields (on the inside), look at the drip are above the doors (with the doors open), look at the rust in the door bottoms, fender bottoms, etc, and look under the cab really well and decide which truck you are more comfortable with restoring.

The both look nice to me.

Notice the obvious differences 67ChevyRedneck mentions...the extra $1,500 saved would could be eaten up in a 5 lug disc brake conversion alone and take special note of things that will deem the cab as costly to repair or worse, junk...

It looks, in the pics, as though the second truck's interior has seen a lot of moisture. Check that out thoroughly inside and under the cab.

Get way more info on both of them. Any documentation or history? AC complete? Interior? RE gears/POSI? Bed condition? ....

There's tons of other things that would have to be checked out. Do it in person or have a local board member help you with it.

And never forget there's still tons of other trucks out there. It's a buyer's market.

BTW---WELCOME to the board!!!!

[Skirkpat]

You did not start off the pst with a budget, which is what I do when I look for a project. On these trucks I would put a nice drivers value at 5-6,000.oo. If you go into it spending half that up front you will not have alot of room to make improvements. I would see the 1500.000 difference as wasted money if you plan on restoring anyway...I would offer the 2nd lady 800, you can get all the used disc brace changeover parts used or 2-300.00 ( remember the other trucks brakes are used too) put your money in fixing it up instead of buying it in my opinion....But you should also buy the best starting point you can afford. Besides, you can't beat the look of a '69 IMO (just kidding)

[19673ontree]

if I lived in TX I would try and find one of those rust free short bed's everybody alway's talk's about ,,

[jrwild]

Quick update. The 1970 had some rust but mostly just under the battery. Big problem was it had been wrecked a couple of times. After the grandfather died the grandkids had thier way and then put it in the garage where it sat for two years. I decided to pass because of the level of body/frame/rust damage. (dash looked like it was pushed in)

As for the budget, i'd like to get a running project for $2,500, although i know that's a stretch. I love the look and functionality of the LWB, so while i have seen a few SWB the LWB is the one for me...