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Old 04-06-2009, 05:26 PM   #1
koolky
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Lift Question

Im currently working on my project 72 K20 and im getting close to wroking on the frame. I think I want to do 2 to 4" of lift. Thinking of running 33s. The truck has good HD leafs that I plan on re-using. My question than, what would you recomend I do to get this lift? Also, do I have to spend big $ to do this? Any other info is great. Just let me know what you've done. Thanks
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Old 04-06-2009, 09:07 PM   #2
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Re: Lift Question

Wow, I can't believe there aren't 25 responses to this! I just bought a Rough Country 4" kit with new springs in the front and blocks for the back. Upon removal of the old rear springs, I found them to be pitted so I am thinking of throwing the blocks on ebay and going with some salvage yard springs and a shackle flip from ORD or DIY. I am going to see what a set of custom springs cost first as I want to keep the 3/4 ton capacity. If the price is around $300, I may go with new springs. Blocks seem to induce wheel hop and wear and tear on the drive train according to everything i have read. I wish I had read a little more before buying the blocks! Oh well, live and learn.

Check out http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=182417 for lift versus tire sizes.

For anyone needing new springs without a lift, try this website:

http://thesuspensionking.com/catalog...d3d6089qv2cgh7

They are in Pennsylvania..
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Old 04-06-2009, 09:17 PM   #3
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Re: Lift Question

I just bought two 52" springs and the came to a little over 400 bucks. 500 with shipping. Tuff Country's and they are probably one of the cheaper in price springs you can get. The lady at Rocky Mountain told me the 56" were higher. Not sure how much more. Never done the flip but a lot of guys here have with good results.
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Old 04-06-2009, 09:26 PM   #4
koolky
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Re: Lift Question

Hmm. Great info guys. Yea, after researching a bit, i am not a fan of blocks, and shackle flips move the wheel base in? So now im thinking about getting new springs, but is this going to lower my spring capacity? I would prefer to keep it atleast at 3/4 ton. Also, will i need to get new drive shafts?
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Old 04-06-2009, 09:35 PM   #5
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Re: Lift Question

Hey, Also, about how much do your lifts cost?
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Old 04-06-2009, 09:53 PM   #6
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Re: Lift Question

im pretty sure when to order it, you get a 3/4 because its made for the 3/4ts not the 1/2t but could be wrong, i belive they cost from about 600 something to around 1100 something per kit and 8-12 hrs for the install if you don't put it on yourself.
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:18 AM   #7
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Re: Lift Question

Really depends on what you want to do. You can run 33s with a 2.5" lift, and won't need to change brake lines or steering parts -- just need longer front shocks. When I bought my Softrides about 10 years ago, the front springs were the same for either K10 or K20. I never used the rear blocks, just kept the add-a-leafs and the truck sits nearly level.
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Old 04-07-2009, 03:21 PM   #8
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Re: Lift Question

I've got a 72 k20 as well. I went with a superlift 6" lift, and am running 35's. I opted not to go with blocks in the rear, and have replacement springs. Also the shackle swap wasn't an option, as I've seen that it changes the rear suspension (can't remember the site that I saw that on.)

I think that I spent about 1200 on the suspension system, including shocks and a new steering arm.
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Old 04-07-2009, 05:34 PM   #9
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Re: Lift Question

Talk to your local spring shop.They can re-arch yours 2-3" over stock and add an extra to keep it there.It`s been awhile but I`m used to paying around $200 per axle.I`ve done it to a few of my work trucks.
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Old 04-07-2009, 07:00 PM   #10
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Re: Lift Question

Special K, if the springsa re re-arched 2-3 inches, do you have to move the attachement/perch as aren't you essentially shortening the length of the spring?
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Old 04-09-2009, 03:02 AM   #11
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Take a look at Alcanspring in Grand Junction, Co. They have some informative tech on their site. Their prices are not much more than new OEM springs.

All the off-the-shelf lift springs fall short in some way:

1. Leaves too thick and too few in number for a rough ride.
2. No diamond cuts, tapered ends, poly pads, etc.
3. Compromised shackle angle because they NEVER make their springs for longer shackles as they should to keep the shackle at the stock angle and still allow for longer lift springs' full spring compression without causing the shackle spring eye to strike the frame or bracket.

I could go on, but I'll just mention that I think the best 67-72 Chevy 4x4 spring lifts involves custom springs made with Offroad Design extended shackles in mind to keep castor within specs while allowing for smooth suspension cycling.
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