Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Sport/Truck · 04-13-2009, 07:44 PM

I searched and nothing came up.
I’m not sure what weight to use, but I called three different machine shops and 2 said use Valvoline 20w50 and one said another said Castrol 20w50. They all said to use the comp cams oil additive with zddp.

Is that too thin of oil? I give up. I’ve got 5 quarts of NAPA 20w50 (Valvoline) ready to go in with the comp cams oil additive.
What are you running?
You call any performance shops they want to sell you Joe Gibbs oil $$$.
s/t

Painter D · 04-13-2009, 08:03 PM

They're recommending the VR-1 20w-50 because it still has plenty of zddp in it already, without the additional additive. I flattened a (new) cam a while back from not using the propper oil. Just use the Valvoline VR-1 and you should be fine. I use it in my truck.

71chevytruckguy · 04-13-2009, 08:05 PM

Ill second that, VR-1 is some good stuff. What I run in my race motor. Chris.

Sport/Truck · 04-13-2009, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71chevytruckguy

Ill second that, VR-1 is some good stuff. What I run in my race motor. Chris.

What do you run in your 69 c-10 Daily driver?
s/t

Sport/Truck · 04-13-2009, 08:32 PM

They didn't specify the VR-1 they said "any good oil, like Valvoline".
The VR-1 I'm sure is a fine oil though.
s/t

67shortie · 04-13-2009, 08:48 PM

If you can't find VR-1 try the DELO 400 oil, it has a good amount of ZZDP in it, and of course along with the Crane super lube or the tried and true EOS from GM, I bought mine at the local dealer for $18

never lost a cam with this combo.

1968SWBBigBlock · 04-13-2009, 08:49 PM

You can use any oil you want - BUT - use an additive - GM EOS (1/2 bottle per oil change - full bottle for breakin)
Comp, Jegs, Summit all make additives as well
I use Lubriplate GPO motor oil myself - they still have plenty zinc - cheaper than Joe Gibbs - and they pay the freight to my door when I buy it by case
Please also use a NAPA gold filter - NAPA, wix make the best filters

**Jokers69** · 04-13-2009, 08:49 PM

The best oil for camshaft's is Brad Penn oil. It has high zinc levels and can be ran with any mechanical, roller, or hydraulic cams.

68gmsee · 04-13-2009, 08:50 PM

Just curious... Why 20W50? Recent rebuild? Racing engine?

mvfd70 · 04-13-2009, 09:42 PM

What about Royal Purple? They've got a break in oil that says it's for flat lifter cams.

Jim_PA · 04-13-2009, 09:55 PM

Huh... I use straight 10W-30. Mobil 1 actually. Maybe time to change.

Southpa · 04-13-2009, 10:03 PM

I used to use 10W30. Then on a really HOT summer day a mechanic told me I should be using heavier oil. I live in a moderate climate, Vancouver Is., where temps rarely go below freezing for any length of time. I think by using 20W50 exclusively since 1995 I have prolonged the life of my engine. Old engines run smoother with heavier viscosities between all those worn moving parts.

Sport/Truck · 04-13-2009, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67shortie

If you can't find VR-1 try the DELO 400 oil, it has a good amount of ZZDP in it, and of course along with the Crane super lube or the tried and true EOS from GM, I bought mine at the local dealer for $18

never lost a cam with this combo.

I like the Delo Idea. From what Ive read racing oil's aren't recommended
for street cars because the lack of detergent.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1968SWBBigBlock

You can use any oil you want - BUT - use an additive - GM EOS (1/2 bottle per oil change - full bottle for breakin)
Comp, Jegs, Summit all make additives as well
I use Lubriplate GPO motor oil myself - they still have plenty zinc - cheaper than Joe Gibbs - and they pay the freight to my door when I buy it by case
Please also use a NAPA gold filter - NAPA, wix make the best filters

I use NAPA gold all the time

.
Didn't they change the formulation of the GM EOS though? That's why I was looking elsewhere for the ZDDP.
I'll look into the Lubrplate oil.
Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jokers69

The best oil for camshaft's is Brad Penn oil. It has high zinc levels and can be ran with any mechanical, roller, or hydraulic cams.

Brand Penn- I'll also look into this as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

Just curious... Why 20W50? Recent rebuild? Racing engine?

That what 3 out of 3 engine builders suggested.
Not sure myself, something doesn't seem right? Didn't our trucks originally run straight 30w or 10w30?
s/t

1968SWBBigBlock · 04-13-2009, 10:15 PM

The formulation of EOS did not change - they had to change the part number and description so it would not be used with catalytic converter cars.
I found a bunch (10 bottles) under the old part number at the local pontiac dealer - they where thrilled to sell me all 10 bottles for 4.99 per bottle to get the old part number out of inventory

Sport/Truck · 04-13-2009, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mvfd70

What about Royal Purple? They've got a break in oil that says it's for flat lifter cams.

I've heard good things about all synthetics, I haven't seen the break in oil.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim_PA

Huh... I use straight 10W-30. Mobil 1 actually. Maybe time to change.

I don't know. I've used 15w50 in my import for 15 years. That motor was soooo clean inside you wouldn't believe it had 190K on it. Granted it was all roller too, so no cam issue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Southpa

I used to use 10W30. Then on a really HOT summer day a mechanic told me I should be using heavier oil. I live in a moderate climate, Vancouver Is., where temps rarely go below freezing for any length of time. I think by using 20W50 exclusively since 1995 I have prolonged the life of my engine. Old engines run smoother with heavier viscosities between all those worn moving parts.

That's what is confusing to me. The cold difference isn't that much between a 10w = -20* and 20w=0* They both (30 & 50) are rated over 100*
s/t

Sport/Truck · 04-13-2009, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1968SWBBigBlock

The formulation of EOS did not change - they had to change the part number and description so it would not be used with catalytic converter cars.
I found a bunch (10 bottles) under the old part number at the local pontiac dealer - they where thrilled to sell me all 10 bottles for 4.99 per bottle to get the old part number out of inventory

Do you use the whole bottle at each oil change?
s/t

1968SWBBigBlock · 04-13-2009, 10:23 PM

Use a whole bottle during breakin - after that use 1/2 a bottle per oil change

1968SWBBigBlock · 04-13-2009, 10:24 PM

FYI - a couple of folks posted synthetic oils - breaking in with synthetic oil is normally a no no ---- they are to slick and will not allow your lifters to spin in the bores and on your cam lobe - this will cause premature wear and wipe your cam

Sport/Truck · 04-13-2009, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1968SWBBigBlock

Use a whole bottle during breakin - after that use 1/2 a bottle per oil change

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1968SWBBigBlock

FYI - a couple of folks posted synthetic oils - breaking in with synthetic oil is normally a no no ---- they are to slick and will not allow your lifters to spin in the bores and on your cam lobe - this will cause premature wear and wipe your cam

Now a little more clarification on the 1/2 bottle treatment. Would that be with an oil that has basically no ZDDP or with an oil like Delo with some in it? ( I think you meant with the basic oil).

I've heard that too, but think maybe the ones mentioned make a non Synthetic break in oil?
s/t

chipflyer · 04-13-2009, 10:56 PM

This is the ZDDP additive that I use with every oil change.

http://www.zddplus.com/

Bus Ted Knuckle · 04-13-2009, 11:01 PM

I have gotten to where I use 20w 50 in anything but my two new drivers, this includes my trucks and tractors. I use the manufacturers recommended weight royal purple in my two drivers (08 mustang and 08 charger).

Sport/Truck · 04-13-2009, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chipflyer

This is the ZDDP additive that I use with every oil change.

http://www.zddplus.com/

I've read some good stuff about that. Do you order yours over the .net? seems fair priced too.
s/t

chevybuldr · 04-13-2009, 11:19 PM

Don't go the Delo route that is for Diesel only. The ZZDP is rated at differnt levels. They are actually starting to take that out of Delo also. Actually went to an intersting seminar from Gibbs oil. Because of the heat of a diesel it reacts much different then say you street car. Any oil that says that its for off road use only has the additive in it. Why not just buy your regular oil and add the comp additive. Dont run a synthetic till the motor is broken in, maybe 2000 miles. Got to get everything to seat and the thing that needs to seat the most is rings.

monte0185 · 04-13-2009, 11:22 PM

Ive done just what my engine builder taught me 15 years ago and never had a problem. About 5 years ago he added the part about the break in oil.

Build the engine with 70 wt oil on all the bearing surfaces and the best cam lube you can find on the lobes. I use some stuff that he gets from a custom grinder he uses. I cant remember the name. Been awhile since I put a bottom end together. The one im doing currently he built the bottom end for. Anyway I use straight 30 weight oil and a bottle of break in oil for 5 hours. Change the oil to 10/30 valvoline and another bottle of break in oil till the first oil change. After that I switch to castrol syntec and i have never had a lobe flatten.

Now there are lots of recipies for break-in and every engine builder will give you a different one almost guaranteed. Most older ones like valvoline cause its one of the top proven brands thats been around as long as oil has been. Usually the best thing to do is pick the one that works for you and stick with it.

Texasbigblock · 04-13-2009, 11:23 PM

80% VR1 20-50 with 20% lucas oil additive

04-13-2009, 07:44 PM	#1
Sport/Truck Sierra Grande Club Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: New Mexico USA Posts: 2,433	Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 I searched and nothing came up. I’m not sure what weight to use, but I called three different machine shops and 2 said use Valvoline 20w50 and one said another said Castrol 20w50. They all said to use the comp cams oil additive with zddp. Is that too thin of oil? I give up. I’ve got 5 quarts of NAPA 20w50 (Valvoline) ready to go in with the comp cams oil additive. What are you running? You call any performance shops they want to sell you Joe Gibbs oil $$$. s/t __________________ 1971 GMC Sierra Grande, 1/2 ton short wide, original 4 bolt 010 020 block & heads. (matching #'s). 383 stroker, SMI q jet 750 cfm, Lunati Voodoo 60102 cam, Scorpion roller rockers, Spin Tech pro street mufflers with X pipe.

04-13-2009, 08:03 PM	#2
Painter D Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: DFW (Forney) Posts: 1,529	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 They're recommending the VR-1 20w-50 because it still has plenty of zddp in it already, without the additional additive. I flattened a (new) cam a while back from not using the propper oil. Just use the Valvoline VR-1 and you should be fine. I use it in my truck. __________________ '58 SWB Fleetside...Front & Rear Porterbuilt Dropmember, 6.0 LS /4L60E. Accuair E-level, 20 Billet Specialties (Vintecs) '63 Buick Riviera ... AccuAir E-level, 20" Billet Specialties (Vintecs) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=528853&page=5

04-13-2009, 08:05 PM	#3
71chevytruckguy Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Kernersville, NC Posts: 599	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 Ill second that, VR-1 is some good stuff. What I run in my race motor. Chris. __________________ its a work in progess. 71 c-10 lwb, in the middle of frame off restoration. 69 c-10 swb, drag truck, 406 sbc, balanced, comp 292 cam, ported, polished, gasket matched, and bowl blended pro comp 210cc heads, 2.02/1.60 ferrea valves,1.6 roller rockers, re curved hei with msd 6al box, 2-step rev limter, accel 300+ wires, ported victor jr intake, holley 750 double pumper carb, dynomax 1 5/8 headers, 4 spd munci m-20 with super case and iron midplate, mr. gasket vertigate shifter, 5.38 pro gears with full spool, 33 spline moser axles and c-clip elimators, line-loc, 5 gal fuel cell, holley blue pump. 7.807 @ 88.37mph 1.60 60FT 80 g-20 van, tow rig, cammed 305, th350, 10 bolt 88 jeep wrangler, dd, 258, ax-15 swap, 4.5" lift, 33x12.50's, lockers, 3.55's

04-13-2009, 08:32 PM	#5
Sport/Truck Sierra Grande Club Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: New Mexico USA Posts: 2,433	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 They didn't specify the VR-1 they said "any good oil, like Valvoline". The VR-1 I'm sure is a fine oil though. s/t __________________ 1971 GMC Sierra Grande, 1/2 ton short wide, original 4 bolt 010 020 block & heads. (matching #'s). 383 stroker, SMI q jet 750 cfm, Lunati Voodoo 60102 cam, Scorpion roller rockers, Spin Tech pro street mufflers with X pipe.

04-13-2009, 08:48 PM	#6
67shortie Green club Join Date: May 2002 Location: Central CA Posts: 1,059	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 If you can't find VR-1 try the DELO 400 oil, it has a good amount of ZZDP in it, and of course along with the Crane super lube or the tried and true EOS from GM, I bought mine at the local dealer for $18 never lost a cam with this combo. __________________ 71 short/fleet ECE 4/6 drop, LQ4/700r4/3.42 gears 70 SS396 Chevelle 427/200-4R/3.73posi 61 Lincoln Continental, black on black Son you are going to drive me to drinkin if you don't stop drivin that hot rod lincoln

04-13-2009, 08:49 PM	#7
1968SWBBigBlock Active Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,643	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 You can use any oil you want - BUT - use an additive - GM EOS (1/2 bottle per oil change - full bottle for breakin) Comp, Jegs, Summit all make additives as well I use Lubriplate GPO motor oil myself - they still have plenty zinc - cheaper than Joe Gibbs - and they pay the freight to my door when I buy it by case Please also use a NAPA gold filter - NAPA, wix make the best filters __________________ 1968 SWB 454 + .040, 490HP x 540 FT pounds of Torque 10-1 Kb Forged pistons, recon rods w/ ARP wave loc bolts 781 heads Ported with 2.19/1.88 SSTvalves Lunati 60204 cam, Micro Trol lifters, Ported Edelbrock Performer Rpm manifold armor coated, Pertronix Triple Strike Ignition Holley 770 Street Avenger carb,Headers armor coated Built by Watson Ruppel Performance in Sarahsville Ohio. Hardshift Tranny Built Turbo 350,TSI 10" 3000 stall 12 Bolt Eaton Posi 4.10 Richmond Gears moser axles 18.5" x 31" Hoosier Pro Street Radials ET Classic 5 Wheels - polished Power Steering, Power Brakes,Disc Brakes,Tach & Gauge Dash, Tilt,Factory Air (gone) Custom Paint & Body Work Special thanks to my wife, my son and my money tree

04-13-2009, 08:49 PM	#8
Jokers69 Active Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Washington Posts: 147	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 The best oil for camshaft's is Brad Penn oil. It has high zinc levels and can be ran with any mechanical, roller, or hydraulic cams.

04-13-2009, 08:50 PM	#9
68gmsee Active Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Centrally located between Houston, Austin and Waco. BCS area. Posts: 7,947	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 Just curious... Why 20W50? Recent rebuild? Racing engine?

04-13-2009, 09:42 PM	#10
mvfd70 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Opdyke, IL Posts: 775	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 What about Royal Purple? They've got a break in oil that says it's for flat lifter cams. __________________ 1978 Chevrolet Silverado 3/4 ton 400 small block. 2000 F-250 Powerstroke 2002 GMC Yukon Denali XL

04-13-2009, 09:55 PM	#11
Jim_PA Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: PA Posts: 2,696	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 Huh... I use straight 10W-30. Mobil 1 actually. Maybe time to change.

04-13-2009, 10:03 PM	#12
Southpa Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Victoria, BC, Canada Posts: 2,410	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 I used to use 10W30. Then on a really HOT summer day a mechanic told me I should be using heavier oil. I live in a moderate climate, Vancouver Is., where temps rarely go below freezing for any length of time. I think by using 20W50 exclusively since 1995 I have prolonged the life of my engine. Old engines run smoother with heavier viscosities between all those worn moving parts. __________________ 1970 GMC 1500 Custom Original 350/TH350 Victoria, BC, Canada You can wish in one hand and crap in the other. See which one gets filled first.

04-13-2009, 10:15 PM	#14
1968SWBBigBlock Active Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,643	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 The formulation of EOS did not change - they had to change the part number and description so it would not be used with catalytic converter cars. I found a bunch (10 bottles) under the old part number at the local pontiac dealer - they where thrilled to sell me all 10 bottles for 4.99 per bottle to get the old part number out of inventory __________________ 1968 SWB 454 + .040, 490HP x 540 FT pounds of Torque 10-1 Kb Forged pistons, recon rods w/ ARP wave loc bolts 781 heads Ported with 2.19/1.88 SSTvalves Lunati 60204 cam, Micro Trol lifters, Ported Edelbrock Performer Rpm manifold armor coated, Pertronix Triple Strike Ignition Holley 770 Street Avenger carb,Headers armor coated Built by Watson Ruppel Performance in Sarahsville Ohio. Hardshift Tranny Built Turbo 350,TSI 10" 3000 stall 12 Bolt Eaton Posi 4.10 Richmond Gears moser axles 18.5" x 31" Hoosier Pro Street Radials ET Classic 5 Wheels - polished Power Steering, Power Brakes,Disc Brakes,Tach & Gauge Dash, Tilt,Factory Air (gone) Custom Paint & Body Work Special thanks to my wife, my son and my money tree

04-13-2009, 10:23 PM	#17
1968SWBBigBlock Active Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,643	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 Use a whole bottle during breakin - after that use 1/2 a bottle per oil change __________________ 1968 SWB 454 + .040, 490HP x 540 FT pounds of Torque 10-1 Kb Forged pistons, recon rods w/ ARP wave loc bolts 781 heads Ported with 2.19/1.88 SSTvalves Lunati 60204 cam, Micro Trol lifters, Ported Edelbrock Performer Rpm manifold armor coated, Pertronix Triple Strike Ignition Holley 770 Street Avenger carb,Headers armor coated Built by Watson Ruppel Performance in Sarahsville Ohio. Hardshift Tranny Built Turbo 350,TSI 10" 3000 stall 12 Bolt Eaton Posi 4.10 Richmond Gears moser axles 18.5" x 31" Hoosier Pro Street Radials ET Classic 5 Wheels - polished Power Steering, Power Brakes,Disc Brakes,Tach & Gauge Dash, Tilt,Factory Air (gone) Custom Paint & Body Work Special thanks to my wife, my son and my money tree

04-13-2009, 10:24 PM	#18
1968SWBBigBlock Active Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,643	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 FYI - a couple of folks posted synthetic oils - breaking in with synthetic oil is normally a no no ---- they are to slick and will not allow your lifters to spin in the bores and on your cam lobe - this will cause premature wear and wipe your cam __________________ 1968 SWB 454 + .040, 490HP x 540 FT pounds of Torque 10-1 Kb Forged pistons, recon rods w/ ARP wave loc bolts 781 heads Ported with 2.19/1.88 SSTvalves Lunati 60204 cam, Micro Trol lifters, Ported Edelbrock Performer Rpm manifold armor coated, Pertronix Triple Strike Ignition Holley 770 Street Avenger carb,Headers armor coated Built by Watson Ruppel Performance in Sarahsville Ohio. Hardshift Tranny Built Turbo 350,TSI 10" 3000 stall 12 Bolt Eaton Posi 4.10 Richmond Gears moser axles 18.5" x 31" Hoosier Pro Street Radials ET Classic 5 Wheels - polished Power Steering, Power Brakes,Disc Brakes,Tach & Gauge Dash, Tilt,Factory Air (gone) Custom Paint & Body Work Special thanks to my wife, my son and my money tree

04-13-2009, 10:56 PM	#20
chipflyer Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Topeka, Ks Posts: 2,293	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 This is the ZDDP additive that I use with every oil change. http://www.zddplus.com/ __________________ I'm not a pessimist, I'm just optimistic that bad things are going to happen. 1971 Cheyenne Super K10 - tilt, cruise, air, am/fm, tow hooks, factory buckets! 1986 Jeep J10 pickup, - 5.3L Vortec with 4L60e and NP241.



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04-13-2009, 11:01 PM	#21
Bus Ted Knuckle Son of a gun Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Hot Springs, Arkansas Posts: 1,636	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 I have gotten to where I use 20w 50 in anything but my two new drivers, this includes my trucks and tractors. I use the manufacturers recommended weight royal purple in my two drivers (08 mustang and 08 charger). __________________ Bill BEATERS ARE NEATER

04-13-2009, 11:19 PM	#23
chevybuldr Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Livermore ca Posts: 699	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 Don't go the Delo route that is for Diesel only. The ZZDP is rated at differnt levels. They are actually starting to take that out of Delo also. Actually went to an intersting seminar from Gibbs oil. Because of the heat of a diesel it reacts much different then say you street car. Any oil that says that its for off road use only has the additive in it. Why not just buy your regular oil and add the comp additive. Dont run a synthetic till the motor is broken in, maybe 2000 miles. Got to get everything to seat and the thing that needs to seat the most is rings.

04-13-2009, 11:22 PM	#24
monte0185 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brighton, TN Posts: 1,267	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 Ive done just what my engine builder taught me 15 years ago and never had a problem. About 5 years ago he added the part about the break in oil. Build the engine with 70 wt oil on all the bearing surfaces and the best cam lube you can find on the lobes. I use some stuff that he gets from a custom grinder he uses. I cant remember the name. Been awhile since I put a bottom end together. The one im doing currently he built the bottom end for. Anyway I use straight 30 weight oil and a bottle of break in oil for 5 hours. Change the oil to 10/30 valvoline and another bottle of break in oil till the first oil change. After that I switch to castrol syntec and i have never had a lobe flatten. Now there are lots of recipies for break-in and every engine builder will give you a different one almost guaranteed. Most older ones like valvoline cause its one of the top proven brands thats been around as long as oil has been. Usually the best thing to do is pick the one that works for you and stick with it. __________________ A computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me at kick boxing. Duct tape is like the force. It has a light side, a dark side, and it holds the world together.

04-13-2009, 11:23 PM	#25
Texasbigblock Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 252	Re: Engine builder says to use valvoline 20w50 80% VR1 20-50 with 20% lucas oil additive __________________ -Scott- 1970 C10 shortbed 396 1969 C30 dually flatbed "Vidalia"

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