Glock's new project: "Fred" w/ 5.3L LS swap info

[glock35ipsc]

On the alternator, if you eliminated the plug that went to it, that's probably the problem. I think it is the PCM that tells the alt when to charge, and when to shut off, kind of like the exciter (field) on the older alternators.

For the fuel, refresh my memory. Are you running an in-tank pump, or external?

[mcbassin]

Looks to me like you have plenty of ponies to the tires and tons of torque to play with! SWEET!

[fpjr0]

running an external pump and as mention b4 the line the came from the evap canister will fit more better and tighter than the actual return line,, so I was thinking on clampin the return to it and the original return line just pluged it....and I dont recall eliminating the plugs from the pcm to alternartor but I thinks it was already cut from when I bought engine.. I found some info on how to make it work with out the pcm thought.... thanks.. let me know your opinion on the fuel line dilema....

[glock35ipsc]

That might just work. Is that evap line mostly steel with short rubber ends? If so, and if you end up cutting the steel to get it the right length, be sure to flare the end of it a little to prevent the hose from being pushed off the end by the psi.

That's good news on the alternator, hopefully you can get it to work!

[fpjr0]

yes the evap line is steel and it has a T next to where I put my fuel pump... with short rubber hose as you said,... I am just gonna clamp it there,its flared.., will let you know how it turns out ....

[silvereagle07]

Are the 5.3 intake manifolds and the 6.0 manifolds the same? If so I've seen the guys over at tbssowners porting their intakes and getting 15-20rwhp. They were having it done by LSportworks. Here is a link.

http://www.tbssowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39770

[fpjr0]

68 tt,, thanks for the info... I been reading the schematics for the 80-87 trucks and I saw what you mentioned above,, the wire coming from the truck has the resistance built in .. so I am going to hook it to that and see if it works... thanks

bob sorry to keep hickjacking the thread... but not sorry about the total # of post in it..

[glock35ipsc]

No problem man! More info for the masses!

[bluex]

Ok its been three weeks and your not done with the trailing arm conversion yet??

WTF? You did the LS swap in a day???

[glock35ipsc]

LOL! Trailing arm conversion isn't in the budget until May at the earliest, still have brakes and A/C to finish up.

I don't need to buy much, but I will need to order some DOM tubing, threaded bungs, and a couple end links to build the panhard bar. I'll probably make a new TA cross member too, just 'cause.

[bluex]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

LOL! Trailing arm conversion isn't in the budget until May at the earliest, still have brakes and A/C to finish up.

I don't need to buy much, but I will need to order some DOM tubing, threaded bungs, and a couple end links to build the panhard bar. I'll probably make a new TA cross member too, just 'cause.

Ok then, I guess. I'll be watching since it will take me longer than that to save up the $ for the CPP kit (or porterbuilts?). I do have my arms now though.

[Driveway Dreams]

Let me finish your statement for you there Bob.
"I'll probably make a new TA cross member too, just 'cause"...I can.

[nlped]

^^^That's right!

[glock35ipsc]

That's how I roll......

[Driveway Dreams]

Umm Bob.....I think you've got something all up in your grill.

[glock35ipsc]

Hmmm, peanut butter. Thanks for the warning!

[Driveway Dreams]

Oh man I love this place!!!

[Thealien]

Another temp sender option.





I am actually going to use an adapter I had made and try this and swap the wire between them to see if one works better? I believe the water pump will end up working better because that is where they put the thermostat, I believe the adapters will be prone to having air in them? And I don't feel comfortable drilling the head on the vehicle, and the 72 and earlier ones are 1/2 NPT as opposed to your 3/8 NPT which makes it even harder to drill the head.

[Butcherboy]

Originally Posted by Thealien

Another temp sender option.





I am actually going to use an adapter I had made and try this and swap the wire between them to see if one works better? I believe the water pump will end up working better because that is where they put the thermostat, I believe the adapters will be prone to having air in them? And I don't feel comfortable drilling the head on the vehicle, and the 72 and earlier ones are 1/2 NPT as opposed to your 3/8 NPT which makes it even harder to drill the head.

Thealien, how will the Temp reading be on the pump? Wouldn't there be a variance between the w/p having coolant moving through it? Just my thoughts. I'm been looking at where my sender is gonna be too! Little scared like you to drill the head!

Hope you get a good reading!

[Thealien]

Where they are in the head their is coolant also, just reading it at a different place. If you can safely drill into the head it is probably a better location except as I stated my 72s senser is 1/2 NPT and I don't know if it will work if I drill in the same hole as the plug. I think I would have to make their 12mm hole the edge of mine adding to the difficulty. You guys with the 3/8 NPT senders have it a little easier. I do have an adapter made but I am not sure how well the coolant will get into the little hole of the adapter and will the flow keep it at the same temperature of the overall coolant? The only issue I see with putting it at the waterpump is will it restrict flow at all? I know a few others doing it this way with no problems. Hearing people say they have had the adapters leak, get broken I am looking for other options and thought I would share?

[79gmc5.3]

Hey Bob or anybody else that knows. I see that you are running a 3.42 rear end. Do we have to stick to the 73-87 years or can we use another year? For a total rear end swap. What models (K5 Blazer,Sub,LWB,SWB,etc.) were more common for this ratio?

[glock35ipsc]

Shouldn't be any difference in drilling for the two sizes. The 3/8NPT will need a 19/32" bit (one bit above a 9/16") and the 1/2NPT will need a 23/32" bit (between an 11/16" and a 3/4" bit).

12mm is just under 1/2". Use some grease on the bit to hold the chips, and drill slow. There looks to be enough room for the larger sensor, maybe some possible interference with the manifold flange if anything:



FWIW, my temp gauge reads almost exactly (well, as near as can be compared with the analog gauge ) what the PCM sensor does via the scanner.

[79gmc5.3]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Shouldn't be any difference in drilling for the two sizes. The 3/8NPT will need a 19/32" bit (one bit above a 9/16") and the 1/2NPT will need a 23/32" bit (between an 11/16" and a 3/4" bit).

12mm is just under 1/2". Use some grease on the bit to hold the chips, and drill slow. There looks to be enough room for the larger sensor, maybe some possible interference with the manifold flange if anything:



FWIW, my temp gauge reads almost exactly (well, as near as can be compared with the analog gauge ) what the PCM sensor does via the scanner.

I already had a 12mm taped hole on the P/S. It had a plug in it, I just removed the plug and used a 12mm to 1/8 reducer. Is this right?

[fpjr0]

mannn mannn mannnn , I get in my truck to go for the first drive test after the new 5..3 power and I start the truck only to find out I didnt hook up the transmission linkage does one of you guys have a pic of how you guys connected it... thanks in advanced

[Thealien]

I was feeling around inside after removing the plug and it felt like there was a bump or? that had me concerned. Just showing another option with the water pump, sorry if I am stepping on anyones toes? Just trying to help. I would rather mess up a water pump than a head?