Scraping rhino liner off

[JoeKan]

I'm almost ready to make a buy on a sweet looking burb but the main problem I see is that one of the PO's had sprayed rhino liner on the top roof and the bottom half of the front fenders and the passenger door. He did this to keep/stop it from rusting. The present PO has been scraping it off and I must say, it doesn't look bad from where he had scraped.
I'm thinking of sand blasting it if I get the burb. Then I's spray it so it doesn't rust until I can get it all painted.
Do you think sand blasting would take it off or would I be better off scraping and grinding it off to the bear metal?
Thanks for any suggestions,
Joe

[GruntMoanCough]

I would think that sand could just kinda bounce off it, scraping (warming it up a bit) should be easier, JMO.

[JoeKan]

How would I warm it up?

[GruntMoanCough]

Maybe a propane torch, heat lamps or even left in the sun for a while.

[BarryB]

Heat gun, but just be careful putting any kind of heat to sheet metal. I would a hate for you to warp your roof from the heat.
Heck even if your not careful with a sandblaster, you can warp the metal. Your better off taking a DA or grinder with a 36 grit sanding disc on it to remove it.

[tim21391]

maybe like they said grind it and if u need to skim coat it with some glaze filler once u get done if u knick into the metal

[brak]

wouldn't liquid stripper work?

[cdowns]

i wouldnt buy it//if you can see that screwed up attempt at quick fixin whats there that you're not aware of in the mechanical and electrical systems that the same mind thought up ways to salvage

[mikey531]

I did a search and found a forum that said this stuff works,
tal-strip

It is an aircraft type stripper and he said he got it at Advance Auto. This is the link:

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...?t=8597&page=2
Post #15
I also searched Tal-strip on Google and found it available in many places Good Luck !

[mclairmo]

Propane torch and metal putty knife.

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by mclairmo

Propane torch and metal putty knife.

x2.

I do a lot of custom suspensions and this is my preferred (ie. quickest and easiest) method to get undercoating, etc. off. This type of thing will gum up an abrasive quicker than you can put a new one on. Follow the putty knife up with a twisted wire brush in a grinder to get it most of the way there.

[UltraBlue71]

I have to agree, I think that Rhino lines would load a sheet of sandpaper up in a hurry!

[watahyahknow]

the stuff is made to stay on no matter what i think when you try to remove it you end up with warped sheetmetal .
i would try chemical remover before heating the material and IF you heat it up make sure the truck is sitting outside and have a bucket of sand standing next to youre work just in case the stuff catches fire
maybe you can get it off in sheets when you use a steamcleaner and get between the rinocoat and metal blowing it up like a baloon it must be a realy powerful machine though
is there a company that does chemical dipping ?

[mclairmo]

I don't think the propane torch will warp the sheet metal unless you let it sit in one spot for a long time. The point is to heat up the coating, not cook the underlying metal. You just warm up the liner enough so that it peels off with the putty knife. You are not trying to blow torch that crap off.

[BlueJeep]

If you can get it off with a steam cleaner the company that put it on didn't do a very good job with their prep.

When I boat-sided my Jeep, I had to get some of the Rhino off the floor so I could weld to it. My process was a little different than what the original poster asked for, but I'll explain it in case it spurs any more ideas. I cut through the sheetmetal and rhino with a cut-off wheel. Since the cut-off wheel slightly heated the metal, some of the liner had started to lift around the cuts. I was able to grab onto it with a pliers and some cases I could peel it off in somewhat larger pieces (3" square or so). I tried shaving it off with a utility knife and that didn't work very well either. The most effective way was to heat it with a MAP gas torch, then scrape with the putty knife. This worked very well on the convex surfaces, and pretty good on the concave surfaces (because of the shape of the putty knife).

It took a long time, but I got it done.

Oh yeah, and when it does catch fire it isn't bad...just a slow burn kinda like a candle.

[WAJ]

a good heat gun and paint scraper. I just finished stripping varnish off a 40' sail boat with this method. takes a hell of long time but works well

[blakeaz33]

Like the others have said, the heat with a soldering torch will separate the liner from the metal. The other thing I've used is an industrial steam cleaner with high pressure and high heat - the home depot models don't work, you need one that runs on propane or kerosine and these blast 90% off if the job was prepped correctly and done well. You can check for someone who steams store fronts and sidewalks in your area - they usually have this type of equipment.