Weekend fuel tank install questions

[Mowdigger]

Alright guys, I'm going to install my rear fuel tank kit that I got from LMC. It says that I may have to do some modifications to make it work. Do any of you that have done this , have any suggestions or pointers on doing this? If you have any pics that would help, I would greatly appreciate them.

Thanks,
Mowdigger

[oldblue1968chevy]

im asuming modifications mean make a place for the filler tube to come thru...

bed floor
sidemarker fill (long as u dont gotta 67)
taillight filler
or graft a new bodystyle door onto the 67-72bedside...im doing this swap soon hopefully too

[Mowdigger]

I'm cosidering grafting one in the bedside, I just don't like the idea of the bed pocket or marker light. I think the door may be my little touch of modernization.

[oldblue1968chevy]

what tank did u go with btw if you dont mind me asking....and what'd it run you? I need to do this conversion.

[Mowdigger]

I went with the 21 gallon metal tank. It is supposed to be for a suburban but it's going in my 71 C10. I think they run around 200.00 plus shipping and it is oversized.

[Booya]

Mowdigger
Can you tell me if that LMC tank has a coating inside to help prevent rust or if it's bare metal.
Thanks

[drewfever1020]

how are u guys gonna cover the hole on the cab were the old gas tank was?

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by drewfever1020

how are u guys gonna cover the hole on the cab were the old gas tank was?

you weld in a patch panel that members on here sale and others

[drewfever1020]

but i dont want to weld it

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by drewfever1020

but i dont want to weld it

then leave a hole,

or DUCT TAPE!!!

[drewfever1020]

were are the patchs at?

[westofb]

Originally Posted by drewfever1020

but i dont want to weld it

You could remove old tank, cut off neck and reinstall it back in the cab...it would still look factory from the outside and no welding involved...but when cutting off the neck, to be on the safe side I would use a sawzall after filling the tank and neck with water, sparks in any empty tank would be a bad thing..
Also to pull this theme off, I think I would make my rear mounted tank filler inside the bed or one of the hidden methods (ie: behind tail light or marker light) so from the outside it would still look as if you had the original tank it....but if you ever loaned out truck or were to sell it, point out to the next user where exactly to fill it up at, pumping the cab full would be costly...not sure what it would hold...maybe close to 1000 gallons...lol!

[unclewatts]

The nicest rear tank filler install I ever saw was on this board. The guy had a steel bed and he put in a chrome pop up type filler like the kind they use in boats. Looked really *****in'.

[vectorit]

I have a burb, and did a new tank install on it.
All I can say is watch your hands! The edges are feakin sharp, and I slashed my hand trying to install it.

I don't know about your area where you live but here in SoCal the gas pumps have large rubber vapor catchers, and one of the guys on here did the marker light fill set up. He found that the rubber vapor catcher wouldn't let him get a good fill up on the tank. I think the member was "Ledzepp".

[Mowdigger]

Booya,
I don't think the tank has any coating in it. I'll check tomorrow and let you know for sure.

[ratpackv8sonly]

Check out some of my older post as I did this on mine but used a factory tank from a suburban way befor LMC sold them.

[ratpackv8sonly]

O-yeah and if yours is a short fleetside you will have to remove one of the bottom floor supports from the bed that goes over the top of the tank. All pictures are in my older post.

[MN Rooky]

I have the same tank. If I did it again I would use threaded rod and come straight down off the frame instead of the J bolts that they sent with. Modifications - I had to move a frame support forward so the tank would fit. I have a long box.