1971 c-10 teardown & frame up resto

[Wilson_]

Originally Posted by skyreep1

Thats awesome about the racing man. good to have someone say something good about less than a 350.

I have the patch panels for the rusted out areas and where there's pinholes im deffinetly not using bodo as i dont want a blow out BUT on the side of the bed for instance there is surface rust that im taking down to bare metal, in order to prevent it from looking sunken in I thought I had to use a thin layer of bondo to beef it back up to the same thickness as the surrounding metal. Is there a different way?

I dont wanna half to cut out and patch 1/4 of the bed because of suface rust and I dont think high build primer would do the trick.

So glass based media for blasting body panels, frame, etc?

take some close ups of this surface rust, if it is indeed surface and not pitted than you do not need bondo if it is deeply pitted than cut it out and put some new metal in there if you want it done right.

Pics are key when asking questions, it helps everyone here who is trying to answer a better idea whats going on.

did you get this bondo?

if so return it and get a better product like evercoat its worth the extra cash

[cedorris]

Originally Posted by skyreep1

So glass based media for blasting body panels, frame, etc?

The frame can probably be blasted with almost any media. I would, however, recommend glass for the body panels.

Whatever you do... make sure you or the person who blasts it knows what they are doing. If you're not careful you will destroy your body panels with blasting.

[skyreep1]

Okay well yesterday I went out and bought a $200 20 gal blaster. Came with everything I need except for the compressor and I have that. Got at tractor supply but now I need media. It looked like all they had was black diamond sand so I'm wondering the specific media I need to use for blasting my panels.

Thanks guys

Edit: Will high build primer work where there was surface rust? rather than bondo?

Also, came across a good parts truck with a working 350 small block with three on the column, after clean up and paint what could this fetch with the tranny too?

Finally, she runs fine but when I shift her into drive of reverse she stalls out on me. I bought a carb rebuild kit today and tried fiddling with the idle a little already. Do you think the carb rebuild kit will do the trick after sitting for 2 years. I've probably let her idle for a total of an hour since I revived her. Any other suggestions are appreciated.

[cedorris]

The Carb cleaning/rebuild is a great place to start.

I'd also run some fuel system cleaner through it. My family swears by Sea Foam. It's about $9 a can at Auto Zone or similar parts supply stores. Just pour it in your tank and run it.

[UltraBlue71]

did you get this bondo?

if so return it and get a better product like evercoat its worth the extra cash[/QUOTE]

Good advise go with the evercoat its 40 bucks a can and will last 40 years longer than BONDO brand.. The like the evercoat extreme

[Wilson_]

Originally Posted by skyreep1

Edit: Will high build primer work where there was surface rust? rather than bondo?

Also, came across a good parts truck with a working 350 small block with three on the column, after clean up and paint what could this fetch with the tranny too?

post pics of the rust.

and you have to become a site supporter to ask what its worth.

[LOW DOUGH]

yea, rebuild that carb and see what happens. Glad to see you got it running.

[skyreep1]

WHOA WHOA problem!

Opened up my carb to find that there was only one of my balls in my acc. pump discharge hole. I guess thats what it is. Also there isnt a spring OR t shaped retainer in it.... WTF?

lolz I have no idea what to do and I probably dont have a good idea of how to do it, but im tryin.

So in summation I think there are supposed to be two balls in my carb (kit came with two, one steel and one aluminum) my carb only had one, and i dont know where it goes in the carb(it fell out upon opening)... also there is supposed to be springs and T shaped retainers on top of those balls (or at least one of them, maybe both) Can anyone give me a walkthrough of what the heck to do???

Its a rochester 2 barrel, the kit is for 2g, 2gc, and 2gv

My kit DID come with two balls and at least one spring and 2 T retainbers but there may have been 2 springs....

Uh Oh

=/

[skyreep1]

Also, yeah thats the bondo but I already returned it so I could afford the roll-back and have it towed.

I'm thinkin high build primer on the surface rust areas and then patch panels wherever the rust is extreme/through.

Will post pict. this afternoon of rust. Also once I sandblast do I do self etching primer first and then high build or vice versa? I know I have to sand down the high build to even it out.

And let me clarify that I need to use glass bead media for body panels right?

[skyreep1]

BUMP could really use some help with the carb guys!

[msgross]

Originally Posted by skyreep1

BUMP could really use some help with the carb guys!

get a rebuild guide or something...(try google?) you can't find every answer in this thread. take pics, post it in the engine area, be patient...

I googled this in 5 sec..
http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=86177

[Wilson_]

Originally Posted by skyreep1

BUMP could really use some help with the carb guys!

try this
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/search.php

[cerjio]

Id give you a stock 4bll intake , if you lived closer, then id go get a rebuilt carb from autozone! ,

[skyreep1]

Well I figured it out, my model was different than the buick walkthrough. Sometime I'll post a walkthrough on it.

Anyway could someone show a picture of how the choke, throttle body springs, etc hook back up?

I have a stock 4bbl intake and 4bbl carb but im keepin it stock. I got it off a parts truck with a running 350 (for sale)

[msgross]

you didn't take pics before you started? rule #1 young grasshopper

[UltraBlue71]

[QUOTE=skyreep1;3612153]WHOA WHOA problem!

Opened up my carb to find that there was only one of my balls in my acc. pump discharge hole. ?

So in summation I think there are supposed to be two balls in my carb

Can anyone give me a walkthrough of what the heck to do???



Am I the only immature person that thinks this guys dilema with his balls in his carb hilarious?

[cerjio]

Go to Autozone, buy a haynes Rochester carb rebuild manual, it will give you a step by step instruction on what you need to do !!!!!!

[tim21391]

well if u havent started with the body work.. go ahead and look in my signature at my build thread.. i thought my truck would need just corners... boy was i wrong.. new parts of the floor.. outer floor extension.. inner rocker. outer rocker. 4 floor supports.. corners.. made my own patches under my tank. both front and rear pillars.. its costed me about 1500 already and its not even painted yet.. just the cab and the fenders are primed.. and i did all the work myself..

[cedorris]

I had a cab in real bad shape too. I actually ended up doing the cab swap.

[LOW DOUGH]

[quote=UltraBlue71;3619409]

Originally Posted by skyreep1

WHOA WHOA problem!

Opened up my carb to find that there was only one of my balls in my acc. pump discharge hole. ?

So in summation I think there are supposed to be two balls in my carb

Can anyone give me a walkthrough of what the heck to do???



Am I the only immature person that thinks this guys dilema with his balls in his carb hilarious?

you are not the only one... I thought so when I read it.