Project: Custom 71 4x4 hotrod

[silver7]

I bought it in 2008 from a guy in TN and am finally just now getting around to starting my build thread. Better late than never. This is what I started with. . .

[silver7]

I found out it was a converted C-10 4x4 with a rebuilt 350 and a rebuilt TH350 sitting on new BF goodrich mud terrains, aluminum rims, and 3.08 geared 12 bolt rear and Dana 44 front end.

[silver7]

Although I planned for it to be a weekend driver after some minor work, much to my wife's chagrin I decided instead to perform a frame-off complete restoration.

[silver7]

I took it apart in my garage. Here are some photos.

[silver7]

I've purchased a lot of parts already and have begun working on my frame. I'm travelling this week but I'll post more when I return next weekend.

[silver7]

Although my frame was converted from 2x2 to 4x4 it needed a lot of work. Good project for someone like me just learning how to weld. Someone had cut a lot of holes in it trying to get the 4x4 suspension to fit so I started by filling these holes with some scrap steel and a MIG welder. I also enlisted the help my buddy Nick to correct the hack job done on my trans cross member. In addition to teaching me how to weld he cut me some nice looking holes into stock steel and cut them to fit a square space I created with a cutter and grinder. It looks 100% better than before. The frame is now ready to get sand blasted minus the traction bar brackets I plan to fab soon.

[silver7]

Next in line was my 12 bolt. I had stripped my Dana 44 front end and 12 bolt rear end, had them chemically stripped and powder coated. The Dana 44 looked great but the 12 bolt was too pitted. Instead of grinding on it for hours and running the chance of it still not looking great I decided to find a replacement. Luckily I found an brand new K5 Army Blazer 12 bolt housing on ebay which was the same housing length. Unfortunately it still required a lot of work moving the spring perches and shock mounts.

[silver7]

Anytime you move leaf spring perches you have to be concerned with ensuring your pinion angle gets sets straight. As a result, I spent a lot of time researching what my pinion angle should be.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=375196

Unfortunately, I found a lot of conflicting information - but I got the most important parts. Your trans-driveshaft angle should equal your pinion- angle, and my driveshafts for the rear and front ends should enter the trans, transfer case and pinions within 2-3 degrees of each other to keep the force on my universal joints and resulting vibrations to a minimum. Since my new superlift leaf springs already came with a wedge to keep the pinion angle stock I decided to try to keep my pinion angle as stock as possible. First, I had to buy a magnetic angle finder. I bought this one (Spohn) off ebay for about $10 - works great. Then I checked the pinion angles of both housings before I began any cutting and grinding. I wasn't sure if my original 12 bolt pinion agle was stock because it looked like the spring perches had been moved. Basically I put the angle finder on the face of the 12 bolt where the cover sits and fixed it in place holding it at a zero angle. Then I measured the angle with the angle finder on the leaf spring perches. I measured -14 degrees and -15 degrees. This makes sense since the pinion should rotate up once the weight of the truck rests on the springs making that - angle zero. Since I'm going with a 6 inch lift I'll put my new leaf spring perches on at 15 degrees.

[msgross]

cool project, I'm going to move it over to the 4x4 build section for ya....

I sill have to reweld my spring perches too. I think as long as they are close you will be find, If they are perfectly straight in both directions then your U-joints won't get the proper workout on the caps...

what are your plans for the 4" springs?

[silver7]

Thanks for moving it. Much appreciated.

Are you referring to the springs which were on the truck when I got it?

[msgross]

yep, are they 4" lift springs?

[Gene]

Nice project! Glad to see i'm not the only one doing a frame off resto in my 2 car garage

[chevy71c10]

Nice project, I like the round holes in the in the carrier bearing brace, I plan to do something of the sort for my exhaust to route. As others have mention as well, it is good to see others working in a 2 car garage as well. Good luck with the build and keep us posted with the progress.

[silver7]

Thanks for looking guys. Yeah, the 2 car garage works but a 3 car would be nice. If we ever move again I'll be looking for a shop or 3 car garage.

The front springs I took off are in really good shape - Skyjacker. I think they are 3 inch or 4 inch - not sure. My rear had 3 inch blocks but I think the stock springs had an add a leaf. I tried selling them before but I couldn't find a taker.

[silver7]

After measuring and remeasuring multiple times, I finally finished getting the leaf spring perches and dual shock brackets tack welded on just in time for afternoon football. Looks good and straight. Next step is fabricating some axle and frame brackets to mount my traction bars. I am also struggling to find my missing spring hanger so I can put my suspension together to make sure everything goes together before powder coating my frame. I may need to buy a new set if I can't find it. Bummer. . .If anyone has one they are willing to sell please let me know.

Good news. A couple of guys offered up some front spring shackles so I should be good to go here.

[silver7]

I bought these adjustable traction bars off a guy on craigslist a couple of months ago. They are 'homemade' but about 1/2 the cost the others were and very sturdy. I've been going back and forth on how to attach them to my rear axle and frame and decided to use some 1/4" shock mount tabs I found on http://www.barnes4wd.com. Great site for you do-it-yourself guys. Anyways, I plan to weld the curved shock tabs to the rear housing and the flat bottom types to a steel plate which I'll bolt to my frame. Bought the bushings from http://www.polybushings.com and the grade 8 bolts from the local automotive fastener shop. I'll post more pics when I get it together.

[msgross]

www.diy4x.com is another great site, the owner can customize your order as well...

$20 for these,
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?rout...product_id=135

[silver7]

I started a thread a few months ago asking for advice on if I should go with 4.10 or 4.56 gears.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=369789


After a lot of research and explanations from folks a lot smarter on this stuff than me, here's some logic -

Average truck tires are 28" give or take. Don't forget - my truck was originally a 2 wheel drive!

With 33" tires and 4.10:1 differential.

33/28=1.18

4.10 x 1.18 = 4.84:1

28" tires with a 4.10:1 differential = 33" tires with a 4.84:1 differential or
33" tires with a 4.10:1 differential will have the effective ratio of a 3.48:1 differential compared to 28" tires.

Since the cam I already bought calls for low gears (3.73 or numerically higher), and the fact I've already got some decent size tires and I may go with larger tires and a manual tranny, I decided to go with a 4.56 ratio. Front Dana 44 and rear 12 bolt Richmond Gear ring & pinions are enroute from Summit racing now. Merry XMas to me.

[silver7]

You're right! diy4x.com is a great source as well. Thanks msgross.

[70 beast]

what part number did you get for your d44?

im looking into rebuilding the original d44 for my jimmy and need some advice as to what i should be looking for. i plan on going to run 4.56 as well to match my rear end.

[silver7]

My part# won't work for you unless you know what gear rotation and carrier series you have. Chances are you have a standard rotation and your carrier series can be determined from the original gear ratio which came with your rig. My Dana 44 4.56 R&P Summit part # is RMG-6902181. Good luck!

[silver7]

Merry Christmas! I was able to get away and get some time in the garage today. Nick helped me with the arduous task of removing the very rusted rubber bushing steel sleeves from my rear shackles this week with a hydraulic press and a blow torch so I thought I could get the rear leaf springs on the frame before I install my traction bars. But before I could insert the new bushings I needed to clean the 30 years of crud from the inside of the sleeve with some WD-40 and a wire brush. Once these were clean enough I wiped the WD-40 off and lubed the bushings with some silicon. Then, after cleaning my frame shackles with a wire wheel I was able to finally get the drivers side leaf spring installed. This was only after double checking to ensure I put them on correctly (point of wedge facing forward to lift pinion angle to compensate for lifted springs). It was a very tight fit - good thing I had my fancy Harbor Freight orange dead blow hammer. Then I had some clearance trouble with the shackle bolt clearing the frame (cleared barely after standing on leaf spring to rotate shackle)as well as lining up my bolts with the spring eye bushing bolt sleeve. Shackle bushing is red because Superlift's bushings were back ordered to late next month so I bought Skyjacker to keep the project moving forward. Superlift no longer sells red bushings - at least that is what they told me. . .Finished just in time to come inside to watch the Chargers embarrass the Titans.

[72BlckButy]

Great progress on the project!

[silver7]

Got some good work done today while my wife and son were at the movies. Installed the 2nd rear leaf but realized I'll need to raise my jack stands or buy a set of taller ones to get my rear end under the springs. Also filled my four 3/8" thick shock tabs so I can drill the holes to 7/16" versus the 1" holes present. After some sanding should be able to drill these Monday. This will enable me to get my traction bar brackets measured and mounted this week. After wire wheeling my upper shackle hangers I'm also ready to drill their mounting holes with a hole saw and mount my front leaf springs. Would have drilled the holes today but realized the saw bit I borrowed is not a direct fit with my air drill and requires a special arbor.

[70 beast]

i still have the original d44 that has 3.08 that i wanna re-gear to 4.56 and run crossover. i rear somewhere that with re-gearing you need a new carrier or can use thick cut gears and keep your old carrier?