LSx motor mount question

[6D8_C10]

Ok, I am going to put a 5.3L in my truck. I was doing a little research on a few sites about the install. I was just reading an article in Classic Trucks where a guy was putting in an 5.3L in his '72. He talked about having an issue with the motor mounts. He said his original 350 was in the 1st two mount holes (closest to the firewall) and the distributor was too close to the firewall. He said that most other c10 that he saw had them in the last 2 holes closest to the radiator.

So, I went out to look at my set up, and my motor mounts were also in the 1st or most rear 2 holes closest to the firewall. Yes, my distibutor is right up against the firewall.

So, will I have issues with putting in my 5.3L?
Do I have to move the 5.3L forward?
If I do have to move it forward, that means I would have to move the transmission forward (for th350 trans) and lenghthen the drive shaft.
Or, if I put in the 4L60e I will not have to lengthen the driveshaft just move the trans mount?

[Thealien]

4WD usually used the rear engine mount holes to give additional clearance between the engine crossmember and front differential. I have a 4WD and will be using the forward holes for a different reason. There are many people doing these swaps and you should have no problems. Spend some time looking at the thread linked in my signature and you should be able to find out all the information you need.

[6D8_C10]

Well, my question is do I have to move the mounts to the forward position or can I still use the rear position?

Because, If I have to move it forward it will require a lot more mods.

[68C15]

if you have a 9" TH350 (tail housing length) you will not have to shorten the drive shaft assuming you keep the face of the tranny in the same place.
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/trans_dims.asp

[Thealien]

Yes you can use the rear mounts but you will have many more questions. Did you read any of the thread I linked to?

There are adapter plates that put the engine in the stock location, forward 1 inch, rearward 1 inch along with all kinds of custom aplications. If you do a little reading you will find out everything you want to know. I did weeks, months of research and put it all in one place to try and help others with these swaps.

If you want to keep your stock transmission (which has been discussed recently) you will need either an adapter or a certain flywheel. If you want to go with an overdrive which are all longer (except the 200) you "may" want to move the engine forward. Do you want to use a clutch or electric fan? If you want to use a 700R4 you need a TV cable so you would need a Drive by cable instead of a drive by wire throttle body (although I did see one installation where an ingenious person installed the TV cable to the drive by wire pedal). By spending some time reading the FAQ links in that thread you will find a bunch of questions you hadn't thought to ask.

Good luck you will like the 5.3. I haven't read one person say I wish I hadn't done it. It can get expensive if you are not prepared to do a lot of it yourself (harness, fuel pump or tank, electric fans and or new radiator).

There are a couple of build threads in that link where these swaps were done on the cheap (around $2000+ I think) but I see many in the $4-5000+ range. I am just trying to give you all the information you need.

[6D8_C10]

Originally Posted by Thealien

Yes you can use the rear mounts but you will have many more questions. Did you read any of the thread I linked to?

I found what I was looking for at the very end.
Here is what I found.

The engine mount locations are about 4 inches more to the rear on Gen III/IV blocks compared to Gen I. If you need to bolt a Gen III/IV motor in where a Gen I SBC once was, companies such as Turn Key Engine Supply and Advance Adapters sell conversion plates that bolt to the four holes in the Gen III/IV block and also provide the traditional three-bolt mounting pattern for Gen I SBC motor mounts.

So, from this statement since my mounts are 4 inches to the rear from other Gen I engines i should be able to put in the Gen III in the same place with same mounting locations (minus the adapter plates)

Originally Posted by Thealien

If you want to keep your stock transmission (which has been discussed recently) you will need either an adapter or a certain flywheel. If you want to go with an overdrive which are all longer (except the 200) you "may" want to move the engine forward. Do you want to use a clutch or electric fan? If you want to use a 700R4 you need a TV cable so you would need a Drive by cable instead of a drive by wire throttle body (although I did see one installation where an ingenious person installed the TV cable to the drive by wire pedal). By spending some time reading the FAQ links in that thread you will find a bunch of questions you hadn't thought to ask.

This is really what started this thread is my trans choices.
I have read a lot about the whole flywheel and adapter modes.
I want to go to overdrive. I have a rebuilt 200-4R with a shift kit that I was going to put in my 69 Burb. My truck has the th350 now so it would have been a simple swap with the exception of the TV cable.
But, this is where the motor mounts came into the picture, if I had to move the engine forward I would need to do the other modes so I might as well get the longer transmissions like the 700r/4l60. But, from what I read now I can keep the 200-4r and minimize my other modes.

Originally Posted by Thealien

Good luck you will like the 5.3. I haven't read one person say I wish I hadn't done it. It can get expensive if you are not prepared to do a lot of it yourself (harness, fuel pump or tank, electric fans and or new radiator).

By the way thanks for your help. I try to do research/read sites, but I guess I just don't ask the right questions or put the right words into a "search".
Sorry but I am more of a visual person and I can see what fits but test fitting and having the parts in front of me. However, this time I don't have that convenience. I am in the Army, working in Indiana away from my home/garage. I will be working out of a co-workers garage. So I can't afford any down time and need to get all the "kinks" out before I even start the project.

So, from the 5.3L I got the full harness. The truck I have already has a electric fan and keeps the engine very cool.
The other thing I need to look into is the fuel pump and tank. I would like to go to under bed tank. And im not sure which is better the in-tank sump or the inline pump.

Thanks again.
Tony

[Thealien]

There are so many variables I could write a whole thread right here? I guess first you need to decide budget and go from there. A search from here won't bring up all the info in the thread I have linked because many of the links are to other websites and wouldn't be found. A google search on the other hand would probably find you everything I have put together but I tried to organise and put everything in one place. You will need adapter plates because the gen III engines have 4 bolt mounts and our original engines have 3. There are enough options I know there is something that can put the engine where you need it. The reason I asked about fans is with a clutch fan placement of the engine for fan fitment in the shroud (or making a new shroud) would come into engine placement. With an electric fan as long as you don't hit the fans or firewall you have lots of options.

External fuel pumps can be done fairly inexpensive. About $100-200 for a pump and depending on whether you have a regulator on the fuel rail (depending on year of engine) if you will need the corvette filter regulator. You can use FI fuel line and clamps all the way to AN braided hose and fittings.

As I said so many variables and questions? Some of the build threads will explain a lot visually as you say.

Again good luck and ask any questions you can't find answers to.
Thanks for your service!

[1971gmcshortbed]

Has anyone used the Moroso plate adapters?

[rob32472]

use the ece mounts and no issues will you have my friend

[1971gmcshortbed]

Does the ece mount come with everything? The pic is tiny on the website, thank you,

[tk-mpl]

I used the Performance online engine mounts, tubular perches and trans crossmember package with no issues. I even had enough room behind the intake to mount the PCM and TCM.
Trevor

[rob32472]

yes and all you will need to do is drill one hole on each side

[1971gmcshortbed]

Thanks I just ordered the ece mounts the guy said I would be ok using the Escalade oil pan.. Now for the header issue...

[Ackattack]

I set my stands in the rear position



and then made my own adapters

[1971gmcshortbed]

Do you guys know if the stock ps pump and ac compressor will fit between the frame rails with the ece kit?

[6D8_C10]

Hey Alien,

I went on your links and found the one where you list the parts for the fuel system.

You list the Corvette regulator/filter as well as the Dorman and Russel parts.

Do you have a link for a diagram or picture of how all this is put together?

Thanks again

[Chevy-Art]

How about these?
http://dirtydingo.com/store/American...306/index.html

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by 6D8_C10

Hey Alien,

I went on your links and found the one where you list the parts for the fuel system.

You list the Corvette regulator/filter as well as the Dorman and Russel parts.

Do you have a link for a diagram or picture of how all this is put together?

Thanks again

In the first post is a link to 2 question and answer threads. In that first post is a link to this thread
And there are discussions showing a couple of peoples set ups.

There are also some pics in the build threads

[Thealien]

here a guy modified his sending unit for a return line

And here is his installed setup. His regulator is on the fuel rail so he only has 1 in and 1 out on his filter


All these pictures are from the build threads. Lots of different solutions to the same problem.

[rob32472]

Yes no issues on the ps pump or a/c

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by rob32472

Yes no issues on the ps pump

And you can even use your stock PS lines with the new pump by just changing the fittings on the back of your old pump to the new pump.