aluminum polish did I miss a step?

[Rollie396]

I'm practicing polishing aluminum on the fuel tank I built.There were some deep scratches and heavy oxidization,so I started with 220 grit paper and worked my way up to 2000(wet) making sure I totally removed the scratches left by the grit before it.From there I went to the polish pictured below (6 applications).
What I've ended up with is a really fine brushed look with a nice shine to it.
The problem is that I'm after the mirror look,so my question is,what is the next step?Finer sandpaper or compound on a buffing wheel?

[SCOTTMO]

Look at this it will help,this is how I started
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm

[Rollie396]

Thanks for the link some good info there!I went out and got a few buffing wheels and sticks of compound to try out.I wonder if starting out with the white compound would be the way to go or would it be a step backward?

*edit* would a soft cloth be good enough to remove any build up of compound when I'm done,or is there more to it?

[SCOTTMO]

I would use a brown/tripoli and see how it looks,if you are satisfied with it
then just put a metal polish on it with a micro fiber cloth.
I like to use a fliz metal polish
If you want you can use the jewelers rouge after the brown tripoli,but you
might not need to.

[Rollie396]

Thanks again Scott,I did some playin around (before reading this) and got fairly decent results.I used the white and then the rouge followed by cream polish.I think if I had gone with the brown first it would have been better though.
I started fresh on another side and tried a few things different. I learnt two main things this time.
Use a sanding block!!I didn't the first time and I think that's why I was fighting with scratches.
Wet sand more.I gave it a once over with dry 220 to knock down scratches and get through the oxidization.After that I dry sanded 400 then wet 400.Wet sanded everything after that up to 2000.Waaaaay better this time!The scratches were minimal and had to look close to see any.
I also would want to get either a bench grinder or proper hand held polisher if I was to do a big area again.I think I'll continue on with it and finish up the whole thing to see if I can get it any better.There are a couple of tricks in the link mentioned above that I'd like to try.
Anyhow,here's what I ended up with this time.I ran out of cream polish after the second application so maybe it could have been better.Any other pointers would be great!

[Rollie396]

how bout a pic

[piecesparts]

You should start with the dark stick, go to the green stick, and then finish with the white buffing compound.

Sand only with wet and dry sand paper, using WD-40 as a wetting lubricant to keep the paper clean (Instead of water). You will be able to sand for a long time that way. start with a 600 grit and go to 2500 grit for your finish. Get your buffing wheels and start with a hard yellow wheel to "Cut" the rough finsih down, then go to a white stiff pad or wheel to use the green compound with, and go to a soft buff for the final polishing.

I use what is called "Razor Buffs" mounted on a die grinder to do my polishing--if I cannot get it to a buffing stand. The razor buffs come in 3" or 4" diameter sizes and are very thin, so they are easy to use. Go to the computer and goggle "razor Buffs"

[Rollie396]

Thanks for taking the time Frank,I'll give that a try next time and see if it works better.
I found that I had trouble getting a consistent finish on all sides of the tank.A couple of them are very bright with nice clear reflections while others aren't quite so clear.I guess it takes practise.
I'll check out those razor buffs too.

Rowan

[piecesparts]

When I first started with polishing, I tried a lot of ways with a cloth, toothbrush, and other ways. I finally saw a fellow at a swap meet that had the razor buffs and that really got me started. I purchased some buffs, a mandrel and from there I have expanded. I now have a couple of grinder stands with buffers mounted on them, so that I can do aluminum in stages and then I finish with a rubbing compound to get a mirror finish. I have found that I can take aluminum strips from a hardware store and make all kinds of brackets for my projects, easier than working some steel pieces.

Mechanical buffing will always leave a set of rotary marks and those can be removed by using hand polishing compounds. As I was leading to in my first input---you have to work your way to a smooth finish, but your eyes can lead you astray, that is why you have to go to the smallest grit, that you can on your sand paper before taking a piece to a finish buff. Never put a lot of pressure on your material. EXAMPLE: put your fingernail up to the buffing pad and let it work on it---that is about hs hard of pressure you would want to apply to a buffing wheel.

[Rollie396]

Do you ever bother going to the red or blue compound?I'd sure like to see some pics of pieces you've done.Do you have any posted around the site?

[piecesparts]

The compounds color tends to set out what it is made to be used on. See the attached page from another website for what each is used for. I tend to use what I can get my hands on locally, but if I have to I will order what I need. http://www.swmetal.com/cart/search?c...ng%20Compounds


Right now, I do not have any on my stuff on the forum---I have done everything that I could get my hands on under the hood of my truck and when I use aluminum to make brackets, I polish them rather than doing a dull finish. For instance, I make fan support brackets for my radiators out of mill strap aluminum from the local hardware and polish it before installing.

[Rollie396]

yea that looks good!Do you clearcoat or seal the finish somehow to keep it looking good longer?

[piecesparts]

I use a product called Wizards"Power Seal". It is applied like a liquid wax, but what it does is keeps the pores filled to keep dirt and moisture out. It works real well and I have been using it for years on everything that I polish, even the truck's rims.


www.wizardsproducts.com

[Rollie396]

I've heard of that stuff,I'll have a look around for some or order it from the site.
Thanks again!

[72BlckButy]

Rollie396... I've had the same issues with BlueMagic as you did above. I'm glad to see you got the tank to shine like a mirror.

[Rollie396]

Thanks Nate.There's room for improvment,but it's not too bad for a first try (thanks to the help I got here).
I thought the blue magic stuff did ok,but the mother's paste did a bit better I think.
Have you found something that works better for you?

Rowan

[piecesparts]

Once you use the Mother's paste, then go back over it with Mother's Billet Polish. It will take you closer to that mirror, that you are looking for. NOET: when done polishing, use a good paint detail spray to clean the metal. The black stuff will wipe right off, easily.

[Rollie396]

I'm looking forward to getting home trying that.I definitely wouldn't have thought of the detailer spray trick!

Have you ever thought about doing a howto write up on this Frank?If you have the time,I think it would go over very well here.

Thanks

Rowan

[COMP]

Originally Posted by Rollie396

I'm looking forward to getting home trying that.I definitely wouldn't have thought of the detailer spray trick!

Have you ever thought about doing a howto write up on this Frank?If you have the time,I think it would go over very well here.

Thanks

Rowan

that would be nice with pics