Check out my new rear suspension

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by Rannos

.... I feel the factory suspension is given a bad rap...

Ditto. The factory set-up is simple and works very well.

[62gmc910]

Originally Posted by Mitch6667

What about the welds on the frame flanges? I would love to show pictures of it at work but the whole truck is torn down tight now. It works just like the original setup pretty much. My test was real scientific (jumping up and down on the rear frame)

Welds on the frame flange creat stress risers and cause cracks , you can help this by adding smooth tapered gussets on the inside of the frame. You may also get quite a bit of body roll from the coil over location, you may want to consider mounting them further out board .

[Mitch6667]

There is 2x3 .120 wall box tubing between the frame flanges at every crossmember location. I think that should keep her nice and together. Those coil overs are out pretty far, but I will definently keep that in mind when I get it going down the road and get to feel things out. Thanks for the tip 62gmc. To clear things up along the lines of keeping the old suspension, I agree there is nothing wrong with running the stock equipment in these trucks. I love the original suspension. Mine was in terrible shape and this was way cheaper to buy the steel and build rather then to buy replacement parts. The extra supports were put on the trailing arms because I was not sure how they would hold up after bending them and welding brackets onto them. The added bonus is that it looks alot cleaner in my opinion.

[nxtruck]

Originally Posted by Rannos

The work and suspenion looks great but I feel the factory suspension is given a bad rap... Unless you want to set the truck on the ground that is. The video I am linking is with factory suspension. Just added a 1" weld every 3" or so to keep the stamped steel C channel from seperating. Anyway enough of my rambling.


YouTube- CDL TRUCK.wmv

Rannos, would you mind sharing more info on this truck? Leaves real well!! And BTW, I agree that there's nothing wrong with the factory arm and spring arrangement.

[Rannos]

Only modifications to the rear suspension are an air bag helper inside the passenger side spring to keep it loading both tires equally (getting the air pressure right was alot of testing on test and tune day at the track) and the mounts for the front of the trailing arms were lowered by 3" and the pinion angle was adjusted to make up for that. Saying that there were other things changed. The motor was set back 11" and lowered by 3" and a custom removable dog house was made. You would sit in the driver seat to tune the carb or change plugs. The truck belonged to a brother and he sold it about 2 years ago to build a tube chassis chevy luv with the same motor. Will see if I still have videos of it if your interested.

[nxtruck]

Originally Posted by Rannos

Only modifications to the rear suspension are an air bag helper inside the passenger side spring to keep it loading both tires equally (getting the air pressure right was alot of testing on test and tune day at the track) and the mounts for the front of the trailing arms were lowered by 3" and the pinion angle was adjusted to make up for that. Saying that there were other things changed. The motor was set back 11" and lowered by 3" and a custom removable dog house was made. You would sit in the driver seat to tune the carb or change plugs. The truck belonged to a brother and he sold it about 2 years ago to build a tube chassis chevy luv with the same motor. Will see if I still have videos of it if your interested.

Yeah, I'd be interested in seeing more vids of it if you have them. Just out of curiousity, what engine and trans was in it?

[phish72]

Originally Posted by astrochimp

I'm not seeing how it works.

Any photos of it with one wheel at full bump and one at full droop?

I'm missing something, but don't see how it can 'rotate'

David

Actually, I designed the trailing arm rear suspension which is subject of this thread and welded everything in place. And I did it all for FREE because we are friends. I also took these pictures with my work issued Blackberry phone. I told Mitch6667 what to purchase, where to purchase it, where to cut, where to grind and where to clean paint. Maybe the reason he didn't answer your question is because he doesn't know how it works. (If you cannot tell, I am a little sore about my "friend" posting all over this thread that he designed and installed all this stuff).

On the stock suspension, the only pivot point is at the front link where the trailing arms meet the driveshaft loop crossmember. The trailing arms are fixed at the axle with the u-bolts on each side. On this suspension shown herein, that fact has not changed. The front link of each trailing arm remain as the only pivot point. I elected to use rod ends here with misalignment bushings on each side due to the angle at which the trailing arms are set to approach the axle housings. The front brackets are actually ladder bar brackets I had left over from my Camaro years ago and they came with the crossmember you see installed. The additional supports which are added from the top of the axle tubes on each side extending forward to the new trailing arms do not change the fact that the front link is the pivot point of the suspension. I personally did not feel the 1-3/4 mild steel round tube was strong enough on its own so this "truss" system was implemented. And as you see from the photos, it is also fixed at the top of the axle tubes on each side. I believe it will rotate more than adequately for street driving. I also intended to suggest that a rear sway-bar or stablizer be added. Essentially a stablizer bar will limit the body roll or pivoting of which you were asking.

Originally Posted by Mitch6667

This was all built in my garage on Friday night and Saturday morning. Just me and a buddy and alot of beer.

There was NO beer consumed during this installation. 1. I gave up drinking for Lent because I am Catholic. 2. I would never drink and attempt work like this.

Originally Posted by Mitch6667

It is a 170#. The charts show a 200# spring for our trucks. I did not want the stiff ride to go with those springs.

There is no chart showing "our trucks". But I calculated that 170lbs/in rate springs would work based on the fact that my '72 C-10 weighed approximately 3800lbs. Typical vehicle weight distribution is approximately 55/45 front/rear respectively. Maybe a little closer to 60/40 on pickup trucks.

[Liz]

Thread closed.phish72 and Mitch6772 review the site rules before posting again. If you want to fight, do it elsewhere... not on the forums.

First second and final warning on the pissing match and trolling. Next will be a permanent account suspension
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=390813