Question On Zing the front of the frame on a 64

[kustomd]

I know Zing has been covered b4 on here but I haven't been able to find the specific question I'm looiking for.

Has anyone thats bagged they're chevy truck by Zing the front frame section to get it to layout ever still ran the stock spindles and brakes? If so how much z did you have to do?

I don't want to have to body drop my truck if I don't have to but I'd like to run my rebuilt brakes and six lug wheels. I'm also doing this on the cheap. So drop spindles and the dropped crossmember is out.

My front bias ply tires I would like to run are 6.70 15" on 40's passenger car wheels. They seem to be in the 27" to 28" range diameter wise as far as I can tell if that helps.

I'm thinking maybe a 3" Z and Zing my lower control arms 2" if I can. I've got access to plenty of steel and I'm not new to fabricating so I don't figure its going to be much different then when I subframe older cars with late model clips.

One more thing I also have an s10 front clip thats good would that front end work better maybe instead to get it down instead of doing all the work on the stock stuff? I know I won't be able to run my 6lug wheels tho with that clip so I was just curious.

Thanks for any help.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kustomd

I know Zing has been covered b4 on here but I haven't been able to find the specific question I'm looiking for.

Has anyone thats bagged they're chevy truck by Zing the front frame section to get it to layout ever still ran the stock spindles and brakes? If so how much z did you have to do?

I don't want to have to body drop my truck if I don't have to but I'd like to run my rebuilt brakes and six lug wheels. I'm also doing this on the cheap. So drop spindles and the dropped crossmember is out.

My front bias ply tires I would like to run are 6.70 15" on 40's passenger car wheels. They seem to be in the 27" to 28" range diameter wise as far as I can tell if that helps.

I'm thinking maybe a 3" Z and Zing my lower control arms 2" if I can. I've got access to plenty of steel and I'm not new to fabricating so I don't figure its going to be much different then when I subframe older cars with late model clips.

One more thing I also have an s10 front clip thats good would that front end work better maybe instead to get it down instead of doing all the work on the stock stuff? I know I won't be able to run my 6lug wheels tho with that clip so I was just curious.

Thanks for any help.

I would start w/measuring your truck.Once you know the dimensions between the frame & ground, you'll know how much drop is needed to 'lay out'.

[jonzcustomshop]

check for some threads started by imperial custom, he z'ed his gmc.

[kdrodworks316]

I have some experiance in this area. The draw back to Zing our style of trucks is the hood, cowl, and firewall clearance. The 62 i cut up had been zed 3" and the wiper motor sat right on top of the distributer, not good. Wanna pull the cab to do a tuneup? I'm guessing you want to Z rather than notch the x member and drop spindles because of a tight budget. My advice is to take your time and plan it very well to avoid problems like not being able to change a cap and rotor without lifting the cab off. Save your pennies and do it right, dropmember and spindles. It will drive better and not kill tires

[vin63]

Just for reference purposes, here's where my chassis sits with a 2.5-inch drop spindle and air springs. I have my cross member sitting on the block of wood because if I let it rest on the floor, I cannot get my floor jack under the front frame horn. If I raised my front crossmember, I would have to address, as kdrodworks316 mentioned, cab clearance issues with my trans and engine.

[kustomd]

My truck doesn't have an x member your thinking of the earlier style frames. I guess my problem is that I want to run tall tires on the front with the stock stuff.

I'm going to try and do some measuring for the firewall stuff in order to check out what I need to do b4 I start cutting the front suspension up for the z.

[vin63]

Originally Posted by kustomd

...My truck doesn't have an x member your thinking of the earlier style frames. I guess my problem is that I want to run tall tires on the front with the stock stuff...

That's interesting...which front cross member does your '64 truck have? And, how tall of a tire do you plan to run up front?

[lakeroadster]

Other options when contemplating the Z'd front with a SBC V8 would be to go with a front mount distributor http://www.jegs.com/p/MSD/MSD-Pro-Bi...61249/10002/-1 I had a buddy who did this on a 65 Suburban... it was slick!

....or you could always run a straight six.

Vin63,

Looking at the above post where you talk about the piece of wood being needed to get a floor jack under the frame horn..... If you loose your air pressure when driving does that mean the lower a-arms and the front crossmember hit the road? And by default doesn't that also mean that your ability to steer the vehicle at that point is problematic?

Perhaps I am wrong but it seems like a z'd frame set-up would avoid these possibilities.

[vin63]

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

Vin63,

Looking at the above post where you talk about the piece of wood being needed to get a floor jack under the frame horn..... If you loose your air pressure when driving does that mean the lower a-arms and the front crossmember hit the road? And by default doesn't that also mean that your ability to steer the vehicle at that point is problematic?

Perhaps I am wrong but it seems like a z'd frame set-up would avoid these possibilities.

I removed the bump stops for the photo to illustrate how low the chassis can sit in relation to the ground at full drop without any frame modifications - our frames already have a drop in front and behind the front crossmember. Depending on how low he wanted his truck, I was showing where everything sits in stock form. I'm kind of curious as to which cross member he has if he doesn't have the stock one on the frame.

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by vin63

I removed the bump stops for the photo to illustrate how low the chassis can sit in relation to the ground at full drop without any frame modifications - our frames already have a drop in front and behind the front crossmember. Depending on how low he wanted his truck, I was showing where everything sits in stock form. I'm kind of curious as to which cross member he has if he doesn't have the stock one on the frame.

Vin63,

I am still curious though... with the bump stops in place, when you let all the air out of your truck's front air bags, the crossmember and lower a-arms don't hit the ground?

[Imperial Kustom]

Guess it's my turn to chime in! The distributor is a problem area with a Z'd frame, especially if running an HEI. I can time the motor and pull the cap and rotor but getting the dizzy out of the engine is a no go without moving the powertrain forward, lifting the cab, or reworking the firewall. A three inch Z and a host of other modifications will screw the frame to the pavement with stock spindles. Namely crossmember and control arm mods, but it is doable and relatively simple as long as your measuring and welding skills are competent. another issue to address with the Z and severe drop from lowered control arms and sectioned crossmember is control arm to steering column interference and excessive camber. The front end geometry takes a little work to correct after going this route.

[vin63]

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

Vin63,

I am still curious though... with the bump stops in place, when you let all the air out of your truck's front air bags, the crossmember and lower a-arms don't hit the ground?

With the upper bump stop in place, at full drop, the front cross member sits about 2 more inches higher than in the photo of my front cross member resting on the 2x4...so the cross member is just over 3 inches off of the ground at full drop with the bump stops in place.

[lakeroadster]

Sweet!