lovin Lukas oil

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I don't use AMSOIL, or any synthetic for that matter, but I'm pretty sure that none of the manufacturers are going to recommend a certain oil unless they are getting some kind of payment or deep discount on the products they purchase from them. Maybe AMSOIL just won't play their game??

It almost sounds like you have an axe to grind with AMSOIL... Just an observation.

LockDoc

Of Course. Ford reccomends their Motorcraft synthetic. Why would they do anything else? They even do the same with their filters.

[70cst]

I look at this way...look how long Lucas has been in business? If all their products were "snake oil" type products they would soon be out of business.
If it works for some great...if other don't like it great. Either way this is an interesting thread. Good feedback all.

['72customdeluxe]

Zmax and slick 50 have been around a while too.


Inb4 I put slick 50 in my worn out 350 and it became a race motor

[70cst]

Originally Posted by '72customdeluxe

Zmax and slick 50 have been around a while too.


Inb4 I put slick 50 in my worn out 350 and it became a race motor

Good point.

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I don't use AMSOIL, or any synthetic for that matter, but I'm pretty sure that none of the manufacturers are going to recommend a certain oil unless they are getting some kind of payment or deep discount on the products they purchase from them. Maybe AMSOIL just won't play their game??

It almost sounds like you have an axe to grind with AMSOIL... Just an observation.

LockDoc

Allison transmissions specs a minimum spec of oil. hundreds of oils are approved.... but the AMsoil "allison transmission" oil is not approved, nor has a sample ever been sent in for analysis.
No bone to pick.. but hate the multi level scheme crap they pull but when you see through the fluff you see whats left...

ANY manufacture offering 30k, 50k, or whatever warranty is going to recommend an oil that will extend life if it is truly going ot make a difference!

we are not talking auto manufactures, we are talking axle, tranny, motor, whatever!!! lots of companies offer warranties on products that if it made it better they would recommend it!

[hayhauler71]

Originally Posted by Mister laugh

No to rain on anyones parade here, but next time you go to the parts stores crank one of the gear things for a while. You will notice LOTS of bubbles.......... this isnt good, its airation of the oil. There was a test of the lucas products on bob is the oil guy at one point i cant find it now.

This is not funny, I used Lucas tb zinc plus additive to my rottella t 15w40 per the conversation with lucas , the oil aerated so bad that the oil pressure dropped 40 psi in 2 miles I pulled over and checked the oil to find a dipstick full of bubbles. Lucas said I must of had it over filled, but being a auto tech for 24 years I now my engine and my dip stick. To make a long story short my friend used the same oil , filter and additive but was not as lucky. He ended up air chiseling his bearings off his crankshaft on his $10.000 engine.

[ain't_done_yet]

Originally Posted by vegaschevy

Hell, Amsoil publish tests related to oil that are for the wrong kind of oil, tell you they have oil for this and that such as an Allison tranny in a duramax... when in fact that will void your warranty INSTANTLY by using it.

...and you got this info from where?? They CANNOT void a warranty just because you put AMSOIL in there...they have to prove that the lubricant (whether is was AMSOIL or any other lubricant) caused the failure to deny the warranty claim. You might check out the Magnuson-Moss act.

[neba]

oil brand choices are like chevy-ford debate. choose one that works for you, but do some research. there is a reason Corvette and many high performance builders choose Mobil 1, along with many Nascar owners. synthetic oils outperform any regular oil ,but i would be carefull with additives.

[GKsport67]

I been using Lucas ($10) since my rebuild. I was trying to upgrade to Royal Purple($50) this oil change but it was WAAY TOO much for my budget.

['72customdeluxe]

Mobil one is a popular "choice" of big names and manufacturers because of money I will say the Mobil 1 "high mileage" line has over 1000ppm zinc, seal conditioners, and is a little thicker. Still 25$ or so for five quarts at wally world. I'll stick to rotella 10w-30 semi-synthetic at 14$ or so a gallon

['72customdeluxe]

Originally Posted by GKsport67

I been using Lucas ($10) since my rebuild. I was trying to upgrade to Royal Purple($50) this oil change but it was WAAY TOO much for my budget.

Royal purple is way low on zinc *and everything else* on a new oil analysis. Way overpriced. I used it once in a car to support a Texas company before I researched, mistake for sure

[Ticker]

Originally Posted by '72customdeluxe

Royal purple is way low on zinc *and everything else* on a new oil analysis. Way overpriced. I used it once in a car to support a Texas company before I researched, mistake for sure

Not the case - please link the oil analysis you're referencing.

['72customdeluxe]

Originally Posted by Ticker

Not the case - please link the oil analysis you're referencing.

will do, this is the street oil

['72customdeluxe]

note the ****tacular zinc and phosphorus levels http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1740905&page=1
couldn't find more because word of mouth about it is bad, people steer away from it

[Ticker]

Thanks for posting the link - that's the only report I've ever seen with less than ~1200 ppm ZDDP. If you search, there are a number VOAs with results in that range as well. ZDDP as an additive degrades over time, but I wouldn't expect that much drop with 5K miles...even with the hard use.

5W20??

I have a sample of RP 10W30 out to Blackstone myself, and I'll make it available on return.

['72customdeluxe]

Yep, recent ones are hard to find (why I posted a uoa) but royal purple street oil is no better than any other sm oil for cams. Rotella isn't great anymore, but i'm not paying so much either

[Ticker]

Originally Posted by '72customdeluxe

Yep, recent ones are hard to find (why I posted a uoa) but royal purple street oil is no better than any other sm oil for cams. Rotella isn't great anymore, but i'm not paying so much either

RP doesn't display the API "starburst" but does claim to be an API "licensed" oil. NO SM certified oil has enough ZDDP for flat-tappet cams. Note that API/ILSAC only covers SAE 0W-20, SAE 5W-20, SAE 0W-30, SAE 5W-30 and SAE 10W-30 -so any other grade is exempt from the limits.

Rotellta as an ILSAC CJ-4 oil is limited to a maximum of 1200 ppm phosphorus, and typically tests lower.

I'll drop off this thread and post the analysis on the oil sticky

[mdwilf]

Lucas makes some great products - the trans stuff & especially the power steering stuff is great - it's fixed some horrible seal leaks for me. The oil additive is OK for some things, if you have problems to fix, want to quiet down a noisy rear end, etc. But from my reading it doesn't have the chemicals to protect - there is a difference. I'm fairly convinced that if you want to protect things, your grandpa's STP oil treatment is the best bang for the buck to add the zinc & stuff.

Also, there is a huge difference in quality from oil brand to brand. I hope the pics show up. In the first one the motor had about 220,000 miles on it & had never had anything but Castrol in it for about 110,000 mi. You see how pretty & clean it is. Then I felt poor for a while & Pennzoil was on sale, so I bought a boat load of it. After only 60,000 more miles you can see how nasty the motor looked. Never used it since.

I found a great write up (I think on BTOG). Since I've lost the link, I'll summarize. If you believe that most wear occurs at startup, you then want the "clingiest" oil (so it stays behind after you shut down) and oil that flows well when cool so it gets where it needs the be as fast as possible when you crank it - synthetics win that contest hands down. Also, you want oil FLOW more than oil PRESSURE when your motor is running. The flow is what ensures lubrication, and dissipates heat more. You could have 60 pds of pressure because you are running 20w50, but if it takes forever for it to make it's circuit through the motor, it's not doing it's job.

Hope this makes sense, it's a great discussion about preserving the trucks we love. sorry for the long post.