Mulk's 8-Lugger

[Mulk]

So I lucked into my '68 C20 about 2 months ago. Pretty clean truck overall. Only rust I could find is in the bottom of the rear hatch where the weap-hole got plugged. Had to do a little carb adjusting for the Vegas area, but the 396 runs strong. Unfortunately, someone shot a quick coat of black primer, but I can live with it for now. I'll just use it ad my guide-coat when I decide to shoot some color. It came with a set of American Racing 16x8. Has a functioning Unity Spot-Light. Still has original interior (Needs some TLC), and headliner. The dash isn't cut, which is a bonus. I have the paperwork (all the way up to 1994) from the original owners who bought this to tow their Airsteam. It has a MONSTER aftermarket gas tank that nearly shut down my bank account when I first filled it up. Gas gauge wasn't working for the first few weeks, but I found the ground wire was cut by the tank for some reason. Fixed and it now seams to work. I'm currently traveling with a spare gallon of gas, testing how close the gauge reads.

I ordered an 8 lug disk brake conversion w/2.5 drop spindles from Performance online. Plus 3/5 inch springs from Early Classic Enterprises. Everybody I talked to from both places where great help, and the customer service was awesome. So I got the beast on the ground, and the off-set on my wheels wouldn't clear in the front. So I had to throw on a set of stock steel wheels until I decide what to go with. The orange paint on the wheels is just to grab attention, and I have trim rings on the way.

Not sure what my plans are for paint, interior, and wheels. For now, this is a perfect daily driver, and kid hauler. Although being in Vegas, I see an aftermarket A/C system in my very near future.

[Burb]

Very nice ... and I'm glad someone else isn't trying to convert into a C-20 into a C-10.5

Great project, keep us posted.

[dougo]

very nice... I like the orange wheels. congrats.

[JOEBOB]

looks alot better dropped...do you know if those moon caps will fit an 8 lug steel wheel? thats what im trying to do but cant even find some 8 lug steel wheels

[Mulk]

Thanks for all the praise, I just really dig this burb. There was no way I was gonna convert from 8 lug, and give-in. To me there's just something really cool/sinister about a lowered truck rolling on 8 lug wheels.

JOEBOB.... I don't know for sure if "baby moons" will clear the rear axle sticking out or not. I just drove around to EVERY tire shop on my side of town until I found a place that had these steel wheels. Found a few later model 8 luggers, but the hub opening was too small for the early style 3/4 ton. 3 weeks ago when I wasn't looking for steel wheels, I found 3 sets on the Vegas Craigslist, but of course they were gone when I needed them.

A side note on that MONSTER fuel tank.... I got it down to an 1/8th and figured that was close enough for me to gauge. So I put 15 gal in it to see approx what it would get me. Well it was only 1/2 a tank So needless to say if I fill this baby all the way to the top, I should get 100 miles out of the BIG BLOCK between fill-ups...

HAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHA

[Number98]

Looking good....

Digging the spotlight

[rocknss]

Cool Burb!!!

I like the stance

[Southcity]

Hey Mulk, I know you said you are running the steelies temporarily but I think they look great, the stance with those bright painted steelies looks awesome...hold on to em even if you get new wheels so that you have the option to change the look up whenever you feel like it. Keep up the great work and keep us updated!

[Mulk]

Originally Posted by Southcity

Hey Mulk, I know you said you are running the steelies temporarily but I think they look great, the stance with those bright painted steelies looks awesome...hold on to em even if you get new wheels so that you have the option to change the look up whenever you feel like it. Keep up the great work and keep us updated!

I'm keeping the steelies for sure. I'm with you. Every now and then you have to change things up. That orange is gonna be included somewhere in the final paint and interior. Most likely as a subtle accenting pinstripe and in the piping on the seats. So those wheels will get to fit in to the mix any time.

[Mulk]

So after a few hundred miles on the new springs, I noticed the ride out back was pretty harsh. Almost like riding my old rigid bobber. Well it seems the springs had settled, and I was literally riding on the bump-stops.

I decided it was time to get off my lazy butt, and install the c-notch kit I bought. Needless to say, the instructions left something to be desired. So I figured I would take some photos along the way, and post a step-by-step, in case somebody wanted to see what they would be in for prior to starting.

I chose the drivers side because it actually entailed more work due to the track-bar mount.... Plus I practiced on the passenger side first, so I didn't add extra steps that weren't necessary (and there were plenty)...

No the 1st photo isn't a Ryobi plug. Just the power tools that came-in handy during the process. Notice the wire cup-wheel on the angle grinder. VERY nice for removing 42 years of grime.

The 2nd photo shows (kinda) the rivets you need to remove. There are 11 total on the drivers side (6 on side of frame, 5 on bottom)

3rd is where I drilled the 3 rivets that held on the bump-stop mount. The others I used a cut-off wheel on the angle grinder first, then they had to be partially drilled before you could knock them out.

[Mulk]

Continued...... I can only post 3 pictures at a time???

Once all the rivets and bump-stop are removed, you can start making your marks for the cut. I would suggest making a template of the outside of the c-notch plate. I will be MUCH easier that holding the heavy piece in place while you mark everything (SOOOO wish I would have done that)

1st Photo..... Spend the money on a quality bit. You will be VERY happy you did. I drilled everything with just this 1 bit

2nd Photo.... It said to line the front edge of the plate to the elongated hole in the frame, above the coil-spring mounting area.

3rd Photo..... Just showing how I used welding magnet to help line-up plate. But if you make a template, you won't have to struggle with this step.

[Mulk]

Continued.........

These 2 photos just show the markings. I added approx 3/8 to the marks to make sure I cut enough for the gauge of the plate.

Note.... the 2 lower rivets on the bump-stop don't need to be ground flush because they get tossed. Also, on that bracket just below the "X", you only need to remove the rear-most rivet for the same reason.

[Mulk]

Continued.......

1st Photo.... My friend the cut-off wheel. Only second to the plasma cutter, for making short order of cutting through heavy gauge steel. Just be VERY careful, as it tears through flesh even faster. I used the cut-off wheel and made "plunge" cuts on my marks 1st....

2nd Photo.... I then used the reciprocating saw to finish the cuts... Again, quality blades will make this mucho easier

3rd Photo.... It's GONE!!!

WARNING!!! Remove the gas tank prior to making all those sparks (forgot to mention that I removed prior to starting project) and DON'T forget to support the rear of the frame behind where you will be cutting. Don't want frame to sag!!

[Mulk]

Continued........

1st Photo.... I used a big c-clamp to align the cross-member with the frame. There are 3 layers of steel at this point (coil-spring plate, frame, inner cross-membet support). I cleaned-up the 2 outer holes, where the rivets used to be, and made sure supplied hardware dropped in without issue.

2nd Photo... This is rear of the cut, and is supposed to show the 2 drilled-out rivet from the track-bar mount, but my photo skills were lacking at the time. Same thing... make sure hardware fits cleanly

3rd Photo.... I mounted the plate to the bottom of the frame, prior drilling the 4 holes on the side of the frame.

[Mulk]

Continued......

Almost done!!!!

1st Photo.... Okay, this is one of those "extra work" moments. Due to the hardware for the lower hole behind the c-notch, interfering with the hardware on the bottom of the frame at the same point, you have to remove the bottom hardware. Do this after ALL other hardware is in place, so nothing shifts. Then insert the lower bolt from the INSIDE (now everything fits) and re-tighten everything.

2nd Photo..... It's done for the most part. It's a bolt-in kit, and should be sufficient. However, when I get my gas bottle for my welder refilled, I'm gonna buzz the ends, and a few the places for extra measure.

I hope this gave you an idea of all that's involved, but I'm sure I left-out a few key points. So hit me up if you have any questions.

[johnnye23]

Great write-up ! I am getting ready to do this job in the next few weeks , which vendor did you use ( sorry if I missed it ) ?. Thanks for sharing .

[Mulk]

I knew I forgot something... It's a Classic Performance Parts kit. Very well made, and quality hardware
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[rocknss]

I agree, great write up on the C-notch mod!

[Mulk]

Okay, so now that the C-Notch was complete, it was time to address the rear shock relocation.

The original upper shock-mount location left something to be desired on stock height vehicles to begin with. Lowering just made it worse, to the point that the shock would pivot on the bolts, rather than compress.

Being a state employee, at the mercy of continued budget cuts, I couldn't justify paying $89.95 for a shock relocation kit. Anyway, the lower mount seemed fine, it was just a matter of fabricating a new upper mount. Something simple that would bring the location further outboard, while decreasing the angle, and getting the shock closer to vertical.

So I went to this super-cool hardware place McFaddden & Dale's here in Vegas, and $18.63 later I had what I needed.

Time for another step-by-step tech write-up...

1st Photo.... Just showing original upper mount, and drilling of MORE rivets

2nd Photo... 2in by 1/4 plate, and 2 Pro-Fab tabs.

3rd Photo... Just used bold and spacer to keep everything lined-up prior to tacking. I angled the tabs a touch to line-up with the approx new angle of the shock.

[Mulk]

Continued...

1st Photo... You can see where I cleared the grime and drilled the new mounting points. This drastically changes the angle, and gets the shock MUCH closer to vertical. I used button-head bolts to keep it low profile, so it clears the head of the shock.

2nd Photo... Just enough room clearing the axle through-out travel. You can barely see, but the new mounting location is right at the bend, and strongest point on the cross member.

3rd Photo...Here the new angle!! SO NICE

[Mulk]

Continued...

Here's the new bracket next to the old one. You can see it's about 1 1/2 in shorter, and beefier, than the old mount.

The important thing is that the Ol' Burb rides MUCH smoother, and the shocks actually handle the bumps the way they should, taking that initial jolt. Plus there's no more springy bounce down the road.

[Heavy Evy]

Awsomeness!!! I have been thinking about getting a burb and everyone I see just makes the want unbearable haha. The only prob I have with 3/4 ton suspension is finding drop springs for leafs without paying your first born. Been trying to lower my 71 for awhile now...

[RCbowtie69]

looking good ,keep up the hard work

[Mulk]

I had a little extra time this weekend (Thanks to mandatory furloughs) so I decided to tackle the suicide door mod on the 3rd door....

I got so into the project, and unfortunately I didn't take all the photos I normally take.

All I know is that "universal" is a broad term when it comes to kits. But needless to say, after all the swearing, brainstorming, cussing, cutting, welding, more swearing, grinding, and PAIN. I am satisfied with the project.

It's currently "roughed-in" and opens, closes and locks from the inside. I'll work on making things purty, and moving the outside handle next weekend.

I think it looks great, and should have been factory. So much easier to load into the rear seats....

[Mulk]

I'll get more photos of the hinges and latch area next weekend when I get back out there.

Heres another shot....