Check my brake line routing Please

[frankdatank01]

All,
I am mocking up my new inlinetube stainless brakelines. Does anyone have a picture of the following rear brake line from the following perspective? I do not have the line anchored yet, but I am confused with the bends on the driver's side where the line heads up to the prop valve? It swings out away from the cross member leans against the frame and the upper bend is not even close to bending into the frame.

Take a look, let me know if this looks right. Thanks in advance. Frank

(I also attached a picture of my new booster and MC, just because I think its purdy...)


Rear Brake Line Driver's Side 1


Rear Brake Line Driver's Side 2 (notice the line bends outward to the rear away from the crossmember ???)

Master Cylinder and Booster

[DorianB]

Going off my 68 C10....
Just above your top arrow the line should go under a "clamp" that holds the brake line to the frame. Then it will take a 90 degree bend and go down inside the frame, and run forward a few inches so the line stays close to the metal and protected from nasty things coming under the vehicle.

[71tahoe]

I've run the LMC stainless on a 69 truck. I think it's made by inline but should be similar. I started by laying out the front line to see where it fell and then tried to put the rear one where it would line up in tandem.

Unfortunately there have been posts describing how inline doesn't always fit correctly and your's may be the next case study.

[my67c20]

I bought from inline and i also bought a forming tool, cause they definitly did not line up. However you are doing it right by not having the motor in the way. I would also recommend that you bleed the brakes before you get stuff in the way. By bleed i mean someone mashing the brake pedal. As i have found out that at every fitting from inline that they leaked. This was at points were parts from the kit joined into a tee from the kit. I cranked the lines down to the point with a flare nut wrench that i could crank no more. I basically will end up using there fitttings and reflaring the lines myself. So much for painting things.

[s_nova69]

I bought or at least paid for the same kit from inline tube almost a month ago and still no product. But besides that I am interested in seeing what you do with this kit from them.

[michael bustamante]

Ive noticed some brake lines actually run on the outside of the frame. My 67 ran on the inside and was clamped down withthat W shaped piece as well before it went to the T for the fronts. but Ive never seen factory lines that actually bent to contour to the inside of the frame (inside the "C" of the frame)

[frankdatank01]

Thanks for the responses. Once I get the new retainers in place, I will shoot some more pictures of where the lines end up.

FV

[Lippyp]

Mmm very interested as I'm about to buy the same kit from Inline Tube.

[my67c20]

This is my findings with the inline products. When i screwed the fitting together and got to the point when i needed a wrench you could move the line about a 1/16th of an inch, once i put a wrench on ths fitting i could still yield a good full turn before it picked up the slop. Seemed like the ends were over crimped.

So i went to Napa bought new lines and a new flare kit and made my own. Using the same fittings from the inline kit when i finger tightened the connection i had no movement of the line. This allowed me not to have to crank the fittings down to achieve a good connection. Total cost $100.

I did my doubles flares slightly different. I still used the little adapter but after i achieved that i then flattened out that before i used the cone tool. This allowed me more material and to acheive a true double flare. I also did not crank the tool down to allow the fitting to finish the job.

I can truly say in the future i make my own lines.

Sorry if i stole the thread a bit.