56 3100 4x4 conversion

[qksilver]

Been quite a while since I have come on this board. Stockpiled way to many parts. Time to start building again.

Doing a 4x4 conversion on my 56 long bed. Figured it was the cheapest way to get disc brakes on the front. Using the drive train out of a 68 burb. Have the front axle,350 engine( brothers engine mount cross member), 4 speed trans (original bell housing trans mount system) with transfer case and rear axle all mounted, no problems there.

Trying to figure out the best way to steer it. I have seen on the board a lot of people using a front of axle outside frame mounted P/S box. I also figured out how to use the power assist stuff off of a 65 C10 .I don't like the limitations to turning radius and having to cut up the inner fender wells with the front mounted p/s box, the complication and durability of the p/s assist unit.

I remember a while back of a kit to use a Toyota 4x4 p/s box mounted with a fabbed bracket in the original steering box location. I think this would solve a lot of problems but can't seem to find any info.

The 68 steering arm is very close to the original location of the straight axle both it height and placement horizontally from the axle center line. I have a well done tilt column conversion out of my 56 cameo.

Questions, who has it the bracket and steering column adapters (will try to fab the bracket and steering coupler), this truck isn't going to be used hard, want something different, and will the Toyota box be strong enough.

I will be using some relatively narrow rims, 15x7 and I think 245/70/r15.
The only hard things left, other than the steering will be the drive shafts and exhaust.

Any help/thoughts and advice would be great, i have lots of time no money!

Thanks,
Steve

[bajabob]

qksliver
This is the direction I was going to go with my build until it all went sideways instead... Not sure I have any advice other than post up some pics and I will be watching to see how it progresses and hope that I did not make the wrong decision with mine...... Sounds like a sweet way to go especially with the skinny tires !!!!

[raycow]

If you really want 4WD that's one thing, but if you are seriously considering a 4WD conversion just to get disc brakes, there are much easier and cheaper ways to do it.

Most of the usual vendors sell mounting brackets or complete kits to put discs on your stock spindles. If you keep your stock steering you can also adapt an external PS cylinder like on your 65.

Ray

[qksilver]

I went thru various thoughts, I have quite a stock pile of parts. I used what i could get to the easiest. The 4X4 stuff was at the front of the shop. What i have already done was fairly simple, had to buy new u clamps, always use new there and the engine mounts came off of a unfinished project i bought.

I really don't like the external PS cylinders, i did one on a 67 1/2 4X4 and it seems that if it doesn't get driven a lot they leak from sitting. I have done some junk yard crawling and the toyota box seems to be a good fit. Not having to cut or modify the frame plus being mounted in the stock location, the frame is stronger other than opening up the sector shaft hole. Plus no inner fender well mods and not a whole lot of steering shaft mods either. i have time, no money and a good friend who is a fabricator.

Thanks for the comments and advice,
Steve

[OrrieG]

I agree with Ray on using 4wd just to get disc brakes. You also have to deal with the transfer case, drive line, etc. You are adding 750# to the weight and raising the whole truck 4". With the stock Chevy box on the outside of the frame the triming for the shaft and lines are minimal, see below. You do lose right hand turning radius but in town driving it is not a problem, only shows up when trying to turn around on logging roads! I am using the stock ps steering pump.

Other steering conversion I have seen are using a Jeep box (same as Chevy but mirrored design) that mount on the inside of the frame in front of the crossmember and uses cross steering (photo below). I also saw a conversion that uses a late 90's early 00 Chevy 2wd box that mounts in the same location at the TF box. You can get a conversion bearing that lets you use the stock steering column with a new shaft to the box.

[qksilver]

Thanks for the pix, didn't realize how little needs to be trimmed. I like the idea of the later model steering box. I have seen the frames crack with two wheel drive and was concerned with 4X4. No matter what i say about not using it hard, the temptation will be there! Lots of trails and mud holes around here and the beach is is only 130 miles away.

I do agree about going 4X4 just to get disc brakes..............yes. I started on a Friday night and had everything, front axle, transfer case, engine and transfer case cross member mocked up by Sunday morning. The rear end took a little longer........then my friend went over all my tack welds and stitch welded everything. I haven't mounted the transfer case shifter, no access hole cut, no drive shafts but it looks like there is plenty of clearance, exhaust? looks will be deceiving( past experience!) and I want to mount the booster and master cylinder on the firewall. Wiring is another issue but I have a complete harness 85 from the donor engine, trans and transfer case.
I am not going to worry about the body etc. Don't care about the looks, just the safety and how it drives. I have all the parts except for some chrome to build a GMC camio , can't remember what the GMC version is called and that's what will need my money.
Thanks for the pix......it helps to visualize and i didn't check anything newer than a 86 at the yard.

Conversion bearing? where would I look.
Thanks again for the advice, very helpful
Steve

[OrrieG]

Somethings to look for. If you kept the stock trans crossmember (I do to provide cross support at the front rear spring schackles) you may need to notch it for the front drive line. At rest it look ok, off road the passenger spring will compress enough so it rubs. Also, if you are running a TH350 or 400 the cover pan for the torque converter cannot be installed in one piece. If you remove the trans cross member the problems go away but you loose all side lateral support for the frame. You have already probably figured out the front and rear shock mounts need to be changes too. Post some pics I always like to see how others tackle these problems.

[qksilver]

Whoops.........forgot the shock mounts. I kept the stock trans cross member because I am using the stock bell housing with the 4 speed and transfer case out of the 68 burb. The burb had already had a 72 front axle installed.

I mounted the after market engine mount crossmember while the original engine and trans were in the truck. It made placement etc very easy. Once i tacked that in I removed the front mounted engine mounts. I then remove the original 4 speed and slid the 68 trans and transfer case and made up a cross member mount for the transfer case. I figured with the granny gear in the 4 speed and the 3:08 in the drive axles it would be pretty good around town and the high way. Will find some tall narrow tires to mount.

I don't think the shock mounts will be to bad to figure out. i wanted to do the steering first. Rear i have quite a few brackets off of frame I have scrapped.

Good thought on the front drive shaft, i want to keep every cross member and the two added , engine and transfer case should keep me from having to box the frame. Notching I don't mind. No work out at the shop this month, I will see if I can find some of the pix I took and will get some when i am back out at the shop.

Thanks again,
Steve