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Old 07-27-2010, 12:24 AM   #1
apachedaddy
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Re: C10Slim's 66 Build Thread

Did you move the new motor mounts up one hole and drill a new hole for the foward bolt? If so how do you like the fit for the dizzy clearance. Also with the 700r will the drive shaft have to be re-sized in lenght with the motor mounts moved fwd? Love your build and looking good you will be on the road in no time...
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Old 07-27-2010, 07:19 AM   #2
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Re: C10Slim's 66 Build Thread

Good lookin' build. I'm also looking forward to the answers for the questions apachedaddy posted, kinda looks like the motor mounts were moved forward a hole. It'll be interesting to see how everything else works out and fits if that is the case. Good stuff.
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Old 07-27-2010, 09:15 AM   #3
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Re: C10Slim's 66 Build Thread

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Originally Posted by apachedaddy View Post
Did you move the new motor mounts up one hole and drill a new hole for the foward bolt? If so how do you like the fit for the dizzy clearance. Also with the 700r will the drive shaft have to be re-sized in lenght with the motor mounts moved fwd? Love your build and looking good you will be on the road in no time...
I did move them up a hole, but I did not have to drill any new holes. The clearence is great all the way around.

I knew from the get go I was not going to use the original drive shaft (it was the smaller 2 piece shaft) so I sold it. I am going to have one made. The original shaft would probably need to be shortened. If my memory serves correctly, even with the motor moved up the 700 is still longer than the 3-speed.
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Old 07-27-2010, 09:26 AM   #4
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Re: C10Slim's 66 Build Thread

that's lookin nice. i've got several cans of easy off for when we do the frame on our truck
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Old 07-28-2010, 01:43 AM   #5
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Re: C10Slim's 66 Build Thread

Hey Slim, looking at the photos of your header instal, it almost looks to me like a header designed to fit a '68-'72 GM A-body (Chevelle, Cutlass, GTO, etc) would work good in there. Might this have been a design you tried in your previous attempts, or was it just different manufacturers of parts specifically for the '60-'66 pickups?
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Old 07-28-2010, 11:16 AM   #6
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Re: C10Slim's 66 Build Thread

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Hey Slim, looking at the photos of your header instal, it almost looks to me like a header designed to fit a '68-'72 GM A-body (Chevelle, Cutlass, GTO, etc) would work good in there. Might this have been a design you tried in your previous attempts, or was it just different manufacturers of parts specifically for the '60-'66 pickups?
Doug's list these headers for:

1967-74 Camaro
1968-74 Chevelle
1968-72 Chevy II, Nova
1968-74 El Camino
1965-70 Passenger Car, Wagon
1965-66 Chevy C10 (don't ask me why 65-66??)

The biggest issue was finding a header that would clear the CPP perches. The #1 tube dipped to low and would hit the driver side perch. First, I tried a set of Patriot ''Clippster'' Style headers, no where near right. Then I tried a set Hedman headers that were very close, but would not quite clear perches. I could probably have massaged them a bit or shaved the perch to fit. Then I saw these in the CCT mag article, had tons of room around the perch and were more of a long tube design (the others were shorty).
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Old 07-29-2010, 03:55 AM   #7
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Re: C10Slim's 66 Build Thread

Good to know, thank you.
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Old 08-01-2010, 10:04 PM   #8
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Re: C10Slim's 66 Build Thread

Getting closer to start... The brakes are completely juiced and ready to go now. Gas pedal is installed and hooked up. Radiator and trans cooler mounted. Started running the trans lines but need a few more clamps to finish it up.
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Old 08-16-2010, 08:40 PM   #9
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Re: C10Slim's 66 Build Thread

Steering column, steering wheel and gauges ready to go. Going to wire the truck up this weekend I hope.
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Old 08-16-2010, 10:36 PM   #10
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Re: C10Slim's 66 Build Thread

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Steering column, steering wheel and gauges ready to go. Going to wire the truck up this weekend I hope.
Do those alum gauge panels simply swap in place of the OE clear lens? Do they have all the standard OE 'locating' holes for the outer cluster housing?
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 08-16-2010, 10:44 PM   #11
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Re: C10Slim's 66 Build Thread

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Do those alum gauge panels simply swap in place of the OE clear lens? Do they have all the standard OE 'locating' holes for the outer cluster housing?
Yep:
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Old 08-16-2010, 11:18 PM   #12
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Re: C10Slim's 66 Build Thread

What manufacturers panel is that?
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:31 AM   #13
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Re: C10Slim's 66 Build Thread

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Steering column, steering wheel and gauges ready to go. Going to wire the truck up this weekend I hope.
Could you give me some info on your steering column and wheel. Part numbers/IDIDIT??/dealer/ is it a retro fix column? Was looking at the IDIDIT colums from summit and wanted to see if there others out there that may be cheaper is all. Thanks for any info you might have for me.
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Old 09-16-2010, 09:23 AM   #14
C10Slim
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Re: C10Slim's 66 Build Thread

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Originally Posted by apachedaddy View Post
Could you give me some info on your steering column and wheel. Part numbers/IDIDIT??/dealer/ is it a retro fix column? Was looking at the IDIDIT colums from summit and wanted to see if there others out there that may be cheaper is all. Thanks for any info you might have for me.
It is an IDIDIT column retro fit series 1140657020 (column shift). The wheel, hub and horn button are Billet Specialties classic series.

I found the cheapest price on the column was Performance Online, they also had a 20% off moving sale going on at the time, so I really got a deal.
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Old 10-12-2010, 08:59 PM   #15
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Re: C10Slim's 66 Build Thread

Almost done wiring! All the underhood wiring is complete. This flex-a-lite fan controller is awesome. Runs 2 stage will start a 40% and then ramp up to 100% as you reach temp. Also let the can run for 30 seconds after you shut it down. We also got everything in the dash wired up and the gauge panel mounted. We took the wiring through the driver side inner fender/wheel well and it worked out great. All we have left is to install the grille, headlights, parking lights and trim and the wiring will finally be complete! I also have a glass guy coming this weekend to install the front and rear glass. She is so close to being road worthy I can almost taste it!
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