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06-02-2003, 08:11 PM
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#1 |
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Registered User
 Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Katy, TX...but the love of my life resides in Dublin,OH.
Posts: 1,408
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Door Skin Help needed
I replaced the door skin awhile back and replaced an inner door bottom. I never tacked the skin down or put any seam sealer in it so I could make sure it fit. Well i finally got it on my cab. the door has about a 1/4-inch of twist in it.
twist it one way and it fits good at the bottom and out in the top. this way is the best fit... well the most part of the door is aligned this way. My question is : How do I tack this thing and get the door to be square? I was thinking to tack it at the bottom, then twist the door and tack the top. With it mounted to the cab I can grab the top of the window and pull it in with my leg up against the bottom and i can see it move quite a bit. How am I suppose to do this? I really don't want to screw this door up... I have put too much time into it already to do that now. see attatched |
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06-02-2003, 08:12 PM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Katy, TX...but the love of my life resides in Dublin,OH.
Posts: 1,408
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pic 2
I really could do without the QuickGrip
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06-03-2003, 08:46 AM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Katy, TX...but the love of my life resides in Dublin,OH.
Posts: 1,408
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surely I'm not the only one who has put on an outer skin?
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06-03-2003, 09:19 AM
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#4 |
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Almost Satisfied
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,932
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I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. Is the skin fitting flush against the door frame and it is just pulling away 1/4 or is the whole door frame out a 1/4? Are you sure you have the lower inner tacked in correctly to where it is not pushing against the bottom of the skin and therefore pushing it out? Doors are a pain.
__________________
1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far." |
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06-03-2003, 09:25 AM
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Katy, TX...but the love of my life resides in Dublin,OH.
Posts: 1,408
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well the skin actually slides around on the shell if you pull on the window frame. the inner door bottom looks real good... I think I actually did that right....But because I only bent the edges of the door shell over and never welded them together it slides. I know it needs tacks I'm just nervous about where to start...
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06-03-2003, 09:33 AM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,Mi.
Posts: 1,772
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If you can access the inside lip with the door closed(like in the pic with the clamp)Tack it in a couple spots,open the door then close it a couple times to see if things stay aligned.If it does,affix the skin.
disclaimer: I have never done a door skin. just putting out an idea.:p
__________________
71 blazer,350SBC,approx.375HP,700R4,factory GM TPI.Dual electric fans,33x12.5x15 ATR on stock suspension. Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,MI. See ALL my Blazer pic's HERE |
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06-03-2003, 09:39 AM
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Katy, TX...but the love of my life resides in Dublin,OH.
Posts: 1,408
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well I thought about that....I can access the front of the door up by the hinges... but my mig tip will be at such an angle... it might not get good enough penetration to hold.
What I may do is just tack it and see... I guess I can always grind it off and try again... |
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06-03-2003, 11:13 AM
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#8 |
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Almost Satisfied
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,932
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It's just metal! LOL you can grind it off if necessary. I do think BobbyK is correct. You need to pin it down somewhere to get an idea of what is really happening. I assume there is no place to clamp it down low???
__________________
1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far." |
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06-03-2003, 10:30 PM
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Katy, TX...but the love of my life resides in Dublin,OH.
Posts: 1,408
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Could you live with this?
I'm not sure if I can yet....
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06-04-2003, 01:57 AM
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#10 |
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Back in the sticks
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Fordland, MO
Posts: 3,188
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Why are you trying to tack it on the truck? Is this required? Wouldn't it be easier to do it off the truck and then line it up with the hinges for adjustment? I don't know, I've not done it yet, so I'm just guessing. Also had a question, how do you bend the door skin to match the contours and fold the edges to hold it on to the door? I will be doing this if I ever get off this ship!!!! Good luck, Jeff.
__________________
1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty |
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06-04-2003, 09:10 AM
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#11 |
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Almost Satisfied
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,932
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I couldn't live with that. If that is as close as you can get it, you may need a little filler to shape the cab to match the door line. You would think you could pull that in just a little more, but I know they are a pain...
__________________
1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far." |
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06-04-2003, 09:43 AM
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Katy, TX...but the love of my life resides in Dublin,OH.
Posts: 1,408
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before I go the filler route... I'm going to take the hinges off and slot them a little more to see if I can get a little more adjustment out of them. I might grind off the tacks I put on last night and tack it opposite and see what happens.... i tacked at the bottom first, then pulled the top in.
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06-04-2003, 09:48 AM
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#13 |
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Almost Satisfied
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,932
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It is close. While I know you want to get it done, just continue to be patient and you will get it perfect. All of it will be worth it then. Keep us posted.
__________________
1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far." |
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06-04-2003, 11:04 AM
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#14 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Georgetown, KY, USA
Posts: 631
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After I thought about this for a little whil;e..I think it would be best to try to tack it with the rear of the door aligned to the cab as best as you can get it. You may have to move the hinges to help. Then you can align the fender to match up with the front of the door.
If you can't get to places to tack the skin with it closed. try using a couple blocks of wood to try to close it against to twist it the direction you need. This should hold it open enough to be able to tack it in place. |
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