06-03-2003, 10:45 PM | #1 |
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Garage Question
Sheetrock everything?
OSB everything? Sheetrock ceiling and OSB walls? What do you think? |
06-03-2003, 10:49 PM | #2 |
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Sounds good. You need sheetrock for fire protection code I think.
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06-04-2003, 12:03 AM | #3 |
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I would sheet rock both walls and ceiling.
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06-04-2003, 06:33 AM | #4 |
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if your gonna sheet rock "INSULATE" before you hang it,,,,,,trust me it makes such a "BIG FLIPPIN DIFFERENCE" my brother and me did his garage at his house,he also spliced in to the air duct from his laundry room,,,,,which happens to be on the opposite wall,,and put an air vent into the garage,,,now theres heat /air conditioning in the garage,,,NICE///. and "NO" it doesnt effect his heating bill,,,the thermostat is in the house,,......"DO IT " you wont regret it......... i think insulation and duct work materials were about $400....a couple years ago
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06-04-2003, 08:53 AM | #5 |
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I'll get around to finishing my walls in sheetrock one of these days. It will definately add more light.
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06-04-2003, 08:57 AM | #6 |
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My dad is in the process of doing this right now. I gave him a 22,000 btu air conditioner to cool it, so he is insulating everything. Just wish I lived closer so I could use it. I'm still using my carport:-(
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06-04-2003, 08:59 AM | #7 |
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Your origianal question... Rock it. You can always come back in the places needed with support to hang stuff.
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06-04-2003, 09:07 AM | #8 |
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I OSBed everything. You can hang stuff where ever you want and not have to look for studs/ use anchors. I did paint it all white to make it alot brighter.
My garage is detached and must say that if it were attached I would have steetrocked it, Just in case I were to sell my house and the buyer wasn't a garage monkey like me.
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06-04-2003, 09:20 AM | #9 |
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We are just finishing up a buddies garage that is 28' x 30' with 10' ceilings with OSB. You don't have to worry about banging it up near as much as gyproc. PLus there isn't any mudding and taping to do. If i ever build my own garage, it will be all OSB
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06-04-2003, 10:18 AM | #10 |
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The Boss and I bought a house at the beginning of the year and the guy that lived there befor us covered all the walls in the work area of the garage with plywood (not osb). It is the greatest thing ever! Notice I said work area! The rest of the garage is rocked. I hung all my tools for easy access. I will never sheetrock a garage work area again. Also, I would be astounded if you would be required to put up sheet rock for fire code...around here you don't even have to finish your garage. Check the building code for a vent in the garage (or just don't tell anyone)...it could be a code violation because of fumes getting into your house from a running car (for idiots who don't open the garage door when warming up the auto ) I will try to get some pics later on.: Good luck!
Ro
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06-04-2003, 10:21 AM | #11 |
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If I am not mistaken, the shared wall(s) between the garage and house needs to be fireproof. At least that is code here.
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06-04-2003, 10:50 AM | #12 |
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code? who builds to code? OSB all the way baby
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06-04-2003, 10:53 AM | #13 |
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Yeah...I know...I didn't follow that code when I finished my garage. By the way, what is OSB? Never heard that term.
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06-04-2003, 11:14 AM | #14 |
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OSB= oriented strand board or more commonly known as chip board. It's a cheaper alternative to plywood. Almost all newer home builders use it because of it's cost and readily availability
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06-04-2003, 12:10 PM | #15 |
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Most new home construction in larger cities have burn through requirements in their construction code. That's the reason for sheetrock (usually 5/8 inc) in the garage, even when it isn't finished. You will also note the heavier door going to the garage, and if you try to run some wiring, the walls between the house and garage have 2x4 (or 2x6 depending on your construction) horizontally between the studs. This provides another fire break so if fire gets in the wall it will hopefully suffocate before reaching the attic.
All this to prevent a garage fire from getting into the house as quickly. It will get there given enough time, but the idea is to give the residents time to get out and hopefully the fire department time to get there.
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06-04-2003, 12:15 PM | #16 |
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Does it have to be finished in sheetrock or can it be something else?
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06-04-2003, 12:30 PM | #17 |
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Man, if only.....
I'm stuck with a detached garage I'm forced to share with a neighbor. Both the house and the garage (and the neighbor's house) were all built in 1926 by the same builder. The garage is really a two-unit building with a common wall, and it's so old and in need of repair there's no point in hanging sheetrock. Also, it has no electricity. That BLOWS. Sometime in the next year I have to dig along one wall, and repour a section of the foundation, and run power to it and set up a breaker box. The morons before me filled in the yard with dirt, and didn't think about how much side pressure on that building there would be when they were done. A section of the foundation has cracked and is buckling in.
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06-04-2003, 12:42 PM | #18 |
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If you are putting sheetrock or OSB on the ceiling, you may want to look into what the load capacity of the ceiling trusses happens to be. Some trusses are not made to carrymuch weight at all on the bottom side. I wouldn't want you to get hit in the head some day down the road. I had a garage that couldn't take much overhead weight and used foil backed foam (shiny side down). It worked great. In the same garage, I used white melamine board on the side walls. The whole garage was extremely white and shiny, and I could wipe crud off the walls. Heck, I could use dry erase markers on the walls and wipe them off. The board stuff was only $6 or $7 a sheet and it was already white. You are supposed to glue it over a solid surface, but I just nailed it right to the studs with white headed nails.
Just some more possibilities. Oh yeah, then I put white painted pegboard on top where I hung tools. do use sheetrock between the garage and the house though,if it is attached. OCB |
06-04-2003, 12:47 PM | #19 |
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Depending on where you live and how tight your garage is, humidity (I.E. DAMP) might be a problem for sheetrock.
Brian |
06-04-2003, 12:56 PM | #20 |
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COBALT, one of the main reasons for foundation cracking aside from settling is hydraulic pressure. You might check to make sure your gutter splash blocks are carrying the h2o away from the walls and you don't have low grade going toward the foundation. When the ground gets too wet it gets real heavy and fluid (moves around). Helps to have an ARC Eng. for a wife.
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06-04-2003, 01:14 PM | #21 |
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I thought of that, but drainage isn't a problem there - water is carried away from that side of the garage and dumped down hill on the other side of the garage away from the building - otherwise I'd end up with water in the garage. There's nothing but dry dirt. The crack is big enough to let it in. Also, it would get worse over time since every hard rain would greatly increase pressure on that wall, and cause it to spread out more (cyclic loading). It looks as though it broke once and simply stayed that way.
The problem is the garage wall was never designed to hold fill dirt up to the top of the foundation wall.
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06-04-2003, 02:44 PM | #22 |
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My dads shop is the inside of a really big pole barn. He has siding on the inside and out. You can see a glimpse of it if you look at my truck pics.
Pics
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