Make it handle

[67_ShortFleet]

Thanks Rob!

[suville]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Should do OK. Caster may be the hold-up. Check out the "my caster mod with picts" thread, low $$ and good results

Been searchin for this.... a link would sure help if ya could Thanks

[jjzepplin]

Originally Posted by suville

Been searchin for this.... a link would sure help if ya could Thanks

Here you go.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=my+castor+mod

[Bowtiguy]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

Here you go.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=my+castor+mod

I plan to use this method to get my lower A-arms a bit more forward.

question is: can I set the upper A-arms back with in the stock adjustment range ( threads showing on the rear of the shaft) to get additional caster ?


---OR--- does it NEED to be centered???

$2k for ridetech A-arms and coilovers just isn't in the budget at this time. I spent all my $$$ at NLE!

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by suville

Been searchin for this.... a link would sure help if ya could Thanks

I did my caster mod like Rob did his. Mine was a bit less though:

[jjzepplin]

Looks like the ball joint came inside a bit as well. Interesting. How does that affect angles?

[Shon]

As most know this, but Rob is a super nice guy! Spend all day with him at a local truck club even and got to ride in Hellboy on the autocross set up, WOW!! That was tons of fun and my son says we got some work to do!!

Thanks for your time and hope you will come back to other events we may have.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Shon

As most know this, but Rob is a super nice guy! Spend all day with him at a local truck club even and got to ride in Hellboy on the autocross set up, WOW!! That was tons of fun and my son says we got some work to do!!

Thanks for your time and hope you will come back to other events we may have.

I had a great time out there. Turns out I cooked a spark plug. No biggie. Thanks for inviting me out and making me feel welcome. As most of you know, we moved from So-Cal to East Tennessee last year, and we are just starting to make new friends. The guys and gals from the Upstate S.C. Chevy Truck Club are the real deal. Great bunch of people who love their Chevy Trucks. Thanks again.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

I had a great time out there. Turns out I cooked a spark plug. No biggie. Thanks for inviting me out and making me feel welcome. As most of you know, we moved from So-Cal to East Tennessee last year, and we are just starting to make new friends. The guys and gals from the Upstate S.C. Chevy Truck Club are the real deal. Great bunch of people who love their Chevy Trucks. Thanks again.

Was great to meet you Saturday, I've been following this post a long time and it's helped tremendously. I was waiting in line for a ride along and asked you about bumpsteer with the PB forward/narrowed arms and your rack kit- appreciate the answers. Looking forward to seeing you at Goodguys later this year!

Here's what I've put together with help from this thread. I'll be starting on the rear soon, I'm leaning towards a three link and a floating 9".

[tinydb84]

I did move it in just a hair. I don't like having a ton of spacers on the UCA so this should remove a few when I get it aligned.

I will result in slightly less camber gain when the suspension compresses. I am not looking for the ultimate performance so I am not too concerned with it.

[Paul Y]

Rob,

Just wanted to let you know that fitted your from and rear ARB's and Doetsch shocks and have to say the transformation is phenomenal! EArlier in the thread you mention boxing and bracing the chassis, could you elaborate slightly on the bracing? Having difficulties visualising where the cross bracing goes.

Also... Your customer service is to be recommended, thanks for sorting out the short shipment so promptly and apologise for not thanking you earlier.

P.

[70blackfish]

HI, I have a question, i have read some of the 70 plus pages here,
But my question is, have you guys found the limit to the 12 bolt rear axle with
c clips, how much HP and Rear tire will it hold in a G type of set up?
6.4 500hp hemi

[70blackfish]

this thing goes pretty good now and i don't drive slow, i hit the canyon pretty good. stock suspension with air bags and 1 1/4 front sway bar. disk up front
29/15/15 rear tires, Viking double adjust shocks in the rear kyb up front.
I fear wheel studs might break and my rear tire and rim will pass me, or the c clip tip will break and the same thing will pass me......

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

I know this guy is running the stock rearend with a supercharged 406 SB with nitrous. He carries the Dyno printout with him at the car shows and claims he is past the 800 HP mark with a single hit of NOS. He's more of a straight line kind of guy though, I don't know if he's into driving the curves. There are several companies now that offer direct replacement 9" and Dana 60's. Currie and DTS (Drive Train Specialists) are a couple.

[chevyc10lover]

https://www.facebook.com/interesting...nch_main_video

it is not a truck suspension but most of the info can be used to understand basic suspension.
they are already explained in the thread but it doesn´t hurt to watch..

[sama lama]

Has anyone tried rear springs moog 6381. They have a free length of 14.34 a spring rate of 198lbs.

[HellaciousA]

Is there a noticeable improvement in handling by diong a 4 link as compared to running the stock trailing arm setup on a 70 c10 and relocating the shocks/adding an aftermarket panhard rod?

I'm having trouble trying to decide which route to take. I'm planning to get the no limit rear rail kit and wide ride IFS up front. Just don't want to go totally broke getting the suspension/brakes dialed in.

I know I could save substantially by re-using the stock differential, as it would likely be easier to just upgrade to a moser 9" when running the 4-link. Anyone have any experience with going this route?

[BigDan3131]

Hi Rob,

So after reading much of the thread most of it is dedicated to the later model 67 up trucks. I recently finished the paint and body work on my 1965 GMC Longbed 3/4 ton truck and while I do not plan to race it I want it to handle better than it came from the factory. I plan to keep the 8 lugs since its a money issue [already have 18"x8.5" wheels with 265/60/18's] and I have other bills. I will be swapping the front drums to the 8 lug rotor conversion [3" Drop spindles] that POL sells and using a hydroboost setup. I know about weight removal and relocation, it had two saddle tanks and the one behind the seat. All three are gone and I'm adding a 32 gallon custom built tank to it behind the axle. So part of my question is which front springs should I get since I'm switching to a 500HP 5.3L LS from the obscenely heavy 305E V6 and I really don't want to do a flip kit to drop it but I wouldn't mind the truck being more level than the stock trucks are. Should I get rid of the stock multi-leafs for a new lowered set? I still might haul light loads under 1000 pounds in it rarely.
1 1/4 inch front sway bar? 1 inch rear or bigger? Its overall weight will be much lighter than stock with all the aluminum parts and I plan to set the motor back as far as I can and still remove the valve covers if need be. I also plan to run two batteries mounted in the rear outside the frame rails behind the tank and a roll pan/custom 4"x6" pipe bumper.
Someone mentioned Cal tracs and there is a new solution that's more adjustable but both seem meant from leafs under the axle not over it. Can I build something similar to the style available for the earlier trucks [55-59] ?

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by BigDan3131

Hi Rob,

So after reading much of the thread most of it is dedicated to the later model 67 up trucks. I recently finished the paint and body work on my 1965 GMC Longbed 3/4 ton truck and while I do not plan to race it I want it to handle better than it came from the factory. I plan to keep the 8 lugs since its a money issue [already have 18"x8.5" wheels with 265/60/18's] and I have other bills. I will be swapping the front drums to the 8 lug rotor conversion [3" Drop spindles] that POL sells and using a hydroboost setup. I know about weight removal and relocation, it had two saddle tanks and the one behind the seat. All three are gone and I'm adding a 32 gallon custom built tank to it behind the axle. So part of my question is which front springs should I get since I'm switching to a 500HP 5.3L LS from the obscenely heavy 305E V6 and I really don't want to do a flip kit to drop it but I wouldn't mind the truck being more level than the stock trucks are. Should I get rid of the stock multi-leafs for a new lowered set? I still might haul light loads under 1000 pounds in it rarely.
1 1/4 inch front sway bar? 1 inch rear or bigger? Its overall weight will be much lighter than stock with all the aluminum parts and I plan to set the motor back as far as I can and still remove the valve covers if need be. I also plan to run two batteries mounted in the rear outside the frame rails behind the tank and a roll pan/custom 4"x6" pipe bumper.
Someone mentioned Cal tracs and there is a new solution that's more adjustable but both seem meant from leafs under the axle not over it. Can I build something similar to the style available for the earlier trucks [55-59] ?

Your biggest hurdle is rear Un-Sprung weight. that is, the total weight of all the components that are not supported by the suspension (springs). This would include the rear axle, brakes, wheels, tires, U-bolt hadrware and plates, and half of the leaf springs and shocks. Lets say there is 1400 lbs total rear wt., and, your rear un=sprung wt is appx 600 lbs. That means that the 'spung' weight on the rear axle is appx 800 lbs. So, your rear un-sprung weight percentage is close to 75% of sprung weight. This = disaster in the suspension world. 50% is the max for anything that handles. To get there, you could A) add 400 lbs to the rear sprung weight (this is why duallys ride better with 1000 lb of crap in the bed), or, B) swap to a lightweight 9" and 4-bar, and light weight wheels/tires. - I know, neither of these is going to happen. - But, now you know what your up against. Go with big sway bars and good shocks (try off roar pre runner valve styles) don't worry too much about the springs.

[Ddkeeler]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Your biggest hurdle is rear Un-Sprung weight. that is, the total weight of all the components that are not supported by the suspension (springs). This would include the rear axle, brakes, wheels, tires, U-bolt hadrware and plates, and half of the leaf springs and shocks. Lets say there is 1400 lbs total rear wt., and, your rear un=sprung wt is appx 600 lbs. That means that the 'spung' weight on the rear axle is appx 800 lbs. So, your rear un-sprung weight percentage is close to 75% of sprung weight. This = disaster in the suspension world. 50% is the max for anything that handles. To get there, you could A) add 400 lbs to the rear sprung weight (this is why duallys ride better with 1000 lb of crap in the bed), or, B) swap to a lightweight 9" and 4-bar, and light weight wheels/tires. - I know, neither of these is going to happen. - But, now you know what your up against. Go with big sway bars and good shocks (try off roar pre runner valve styles) don't worry too much about the springs.

So if you have flipped the axle does this change the unsprung weight of the axle?

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Ddkeeler

So if you have flipped the axle does this change the unsprung weight of the axle?

Nope, changing the position of the mounting doesn't change the weight percentage.

[Bowtie001]

I want to relocate my tie rod onto the bottom of the spindle for bump steer issues relating to my new front end geometry.

Many kits are available which are a sleeve with a taper in it that you weld into a hole you drill in the spindle. You turn the existing tapered hole into a cylinder, put an insert in so the taper is reversed, and then weld it in.

These kits are all marketed for applications, mostly 4x4 rock crawling stuff.

"Fits JK"

"Fits TJ"

"Fits Dodge 1 ton"

"Fits GM 1 ton"

"Fits dana 60 1 ton"

I don't know, and can't seem to find, which taper we have (My truck is a 72 1/2 ton GMC) and what tapers match that.

Help???

[BigDan3131]

Great job on that frame it looks just perfect.

[Coupeguy2001]

Hey Rob,
I HAVE BEEN LISTENING. now I am trying to turn faster.
Here's some of the things I heard you talk about, and am working towards the goal.
Just want to ask a couple simple questions,

57 Chevy truck, Kimbridge front frame stub that uses all G body suspension.
I used tubular upper control arms that have 6* of extra caster built in, tall ball joint mod, QA1 coilovers, 550 springs, 1 1/8 front sway bar,

The engine is moved back 2 inches and down 2 inches. Brakes are standard G body discs, with a hydroboost.

rear is from a 72 chevy truck with 3 inch dropped springs, and I made new shackles that are 1 1/2 inch longer and thicker than factory shackles,
and I have your 42 inch long adjustable traction bars in the back.

The tires are 255/50/17, Nittos, and are 11 inches wide, all 4 are the same. 27 inch tall. tread wear 300
I could go 245/45/17 on the front, but without a c notch, the rake would be too much, sticking the rear up too high.
I am limited in rear tire size due to the rear fender inside widths only being 12 inches, and I didn't want to tub the bed.

total drop is 5 1/2 inches in the front, and 4 1/2 inches in the back. If I c notch the frame a couple inches, I can get another inch in the back.

I know I have to move the gas tank, just didn't do it yet

Here's the questions:
with leaf springs and traction bars in the back, what diameter sway bar is needed? would I need a 1 inch rear sway bar? it seems to ride the rails pretty good and would a panhard bar help?

Question number two.
Would it be better to load the traction bars neutral or push the rear away from the transmission a bit?
It seems to stop clutch chatter when they are tensioned. I know the rear doesn't move very much now.
Should it?

As an oh by the way, I have some beefy rancho shocks for the front of the truck when it had the straight axle. would using these on the rear help cornering?
It would probably ride like a truck if I did! Hah! but the mounts are the same, and since it is lowered so much, they probably would fit.
Think of them as individual sway bars LOL
Thanks in advance for your reply

[BigDan3131]

Thanks Rob, maybe on the next one I will spend the big bucks and start with a lighter truck too.