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10-13-2010, 09:56 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Emporia, kansas
Posts: 300
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What the heck is going on.
I know you have heard this before. In a attempt to put p/s on my 68 I have used 3 different boxes and 6 different pumps, 3 from o'reillys and 3 from napa. I still have a whine from the pump. in attempts tp bleed the system we filled the pump, hand turned it counterclockwise, jack it up and went lock to lock many many times slowly, started the engine and lock to lock. let it rest 15 minutes to get the bubbles out. I have done all these things each time. The hoses are hooked in the right place (I think they are diff size fittings, but stranger thing have happened) I can not get this figured out. All 3 boxes have been used and thought to be good. I can't afford a new one right now. All the responses on an earlier thread say it should bolt in and go no probs. I am not the smartest guy, but I have a friend helping that has done 2 swaps and no issues and he is stumped. If anyone has a box they just took off and it positively working I'm interested. Any thoughts. I'm passed the pi$$ed stage now. If I knew a brand new box would fix it I would buy one but do not want to if it is not the prob. HELP Gary
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10-13-2010, 10:17 PM | #2 |
The Older Generation
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Posts: 25,594
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Re: What the @#$% is going on.
Gary,
I have put 3 or 4 of them on and never had a problem after I got them bled.. If memory serves me correctly you are not supposed to go from lock to lock when bleeding the air out. You are supposed to stop turning before it bottoms out and turn it the other way. I'm not saying this will make a difference on yours but it won't cost anything to try it.... [Edit] OK, I found my notes. Here is the process I use. Fill power steering reservoir. Jack up vehicle and with engine NOT RUNNING turn steering wheel lock to lock 7 or 8 times. Start engine and turn steering wheel NEAR lock to NEAR lock 7 or 8 times. If you turn it lock to lock with the engine running it will cause the fluid to foam. Let set for 5 to 10 minutes for air dispersal. Lower the vehicle and repeat turning the steering wheel NEAR lock to NEAR lock 7 or 8 times. Repeat until air is removed. If the belt is slipping at all it will cause the pump to make noise when the wheels are turned. This includes a belt that does not have enough contact around the power steering pump pulley. A power steering hose that is touching any other component (engine, frame, Etc,) can also cause noise in the pump. Just some of my observations… LockDoc
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Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - Last edited by LockDoc; 10-13-2010 at 11:32 PM. |
10-13-2010, 10:30 PM | #3 |
Grandpa in the rustmobile...
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Spokane WA/Viola TN
Posts: 11,422
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Re: What the @#$% is going on.
Huh, I put new lines on and didnt bleed the system, just added fluid till dipstick showed it was full cold
what dipstick! lol
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John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 |
10-14-2010, 08:12 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Emporia, kansas
Posts: 300
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Re: What the @#$% is going on.
thanks, Leon I will try turning side to side some more. I plan On driving it this way to see if it will work out. Has that worked for anyone? After turning and waiting and turning somemore for about an hour the fluid was still foamy. How long should that go on? All I keep hearing is bolt on, fill and drive. I am lost. HELP. Gary
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10-14-2010, 08:53 AM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Birdsboro, Pa
Posts: 135
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Re: What the heck is going on.
If the oil is still foamy then its probably still got air in it. I had the same problem with a Ford minivan that I put a new rack and pump in, I couldn't get it to stop wining. After giving up and driving it for a few days like that it finally quieted down. My .02
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67 Chevy K20 LWB Fleetside project 85 GMC K10 High Sierra LWB, 37's, 8 lug rears, 4.10's project 86 m1009 blazer, 6 in lift, 35's, driver 69 c10, 307, long bed, 3 speed, driver 07 Dodge 2500, cc, lb, cummins turbo diesel 00 z28 camaro, ls1, 6 speed, rarely leaves the garage |
10-14-2010, 09:07 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Emporia, kansas
Posts: 300
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Re: What the heck is going on.
Thanks Jet, It gives me a little hope. Gary
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10-15-2010, 08:48 AM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Emporia, kansas
Posts: 300
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Re: What the heck is going on.
did more lock to lock still a whine. Drove it quite a bit last night and drives great and quiet when going straight but a turn slightly either direction and the whining begins again. Do not have radio, can't turn up volume. Gary
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10-15-2010, 10:56 AM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upland Ca
Posts: 4,148
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Re: What the heck is going on.
Not sure what you did for your conversion so......specifically, what components (box, pump, pitman arm, drag link, etc) are you using and what years are the from? If the pump and box are good you have some other non power steering component in the system causing binding. If "all" of the steering components are for a power steering application and they are compatible (same year range) then you may have answered the question in your initial post, 6 new pumps and 3 questionable boxes. Hard to believe all 6 pumps are are bad. Before you spend anymore money let's confirm you have all the correct components.
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1972 C10 SWB, Air, PS, PB, 350/350THM. Second owner. 1965 Corvette roadster, 44K miles, 327/365 SHP, 4 speed, side exhaust, knockoffs, teak, second owner (bought in 1970), Have ALL numbers matching components. My frame off restoration thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=556703 |
10-15-2010, 11:17 AM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Emporia, kansas
Posts: 300
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Re: What the heck is going on.
Thanks Lee, good question. The box im pretty sure came off a 70-72 truck (bought from our own teeitup) the brackets bolt right up exactly so I assume they are correct. the pumps I order for a 68 truck, i assume they are correct. the pitmam arm was on the p/s box. Do not know anything about drag link. I might have missed something but I have read and been told that all I need is pump/brackets and p/s box to convert non p/s to p/s on same year truck. Am i missing something. I have had no body respond with any where near the issues i am having. And I have someone helping that has done a coulple of these before. Thanks for any help. It almost steers now too easy if thats possible. JUst whines like HECK. Gary
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10-15-2010, 12:21 PM | #10 |
Champagne Taste on Beer Budget
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: High Ridge, Missouri
Posts: 2,190
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Re: What the heck is going on.
Subscribed and watching this thread.
Great info here.
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Coming Soon: Project 1970 Country Truck |
10-16-2010, 09:50 AM | #11 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Emporia, kansas
Posts: 300
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Re: What the heck is going on.
Had new opinions from front end alignment guy. Asked if belt was too tight or if pump brackects were tweaked? thought belt might be off just enough to make whine. looked good I thought but goin to check it out shortly. Any thoughts? Gary
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10-16-2010, 10:11 AM | #12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Canton North carolina
Posts: 3,079
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Re: What the heck is going on.
Gary, Use method that leon gave you, but let the truck st for a while then crank jack up again and slowly turn from lock to lock. I just completed this swap a couple of weeks ago on my 68 with parts from Randy and while they are used parts if he told you they were right then they are. It does not matter on the drag link as I did not swap mine out or the have I ever swapped out any of the others I have changed over. Try cracking the line coming from the box- return line and let the box free bleed for a short period of time then try lock to lock. The box may have moisture in it from sitting and will take longer to bleed. Another possibility is a) the frame is weak and flexing causing alignment to change with the pump/pulley - had that happen once, or b) the brackets are not tight and flexing at the block or on the pump c) The 68 set of brackets are different than the 69-70 set and the 71-72 set (68 are a pain in the butt to install) and you could have alignment issues.
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