Problem with drop spindles!

[Low1500]

Hi. I am lowering my 65 C10 and I ran into a problem. I have CPPs front suspension and disc upgrade kit for my truck. I ran into a problem after I installed the spring and dropped the jack from the lower control arm. I then realized that the spindle was hitting the upper control arm and I couldn't move it. I also noticed that when I had tightened the castle nut on the upper ball joint, it had gone past the hole for the cotter pin. I called CPP and emailed them pictures. They determined that I had the right balljoint and that I just needed a washer under the castle nut to lower it so the cotter pin would work, and that I shouldn't worry about the control arm hitting because that would only happen if the truck was in the air. I am not worried about putting the washer in because I have heard of people having to do this. I am worried about being in a situation were my front suspension is unloaded and I have no steering. I am probably going to end up trimming the upper control arm, but before I did I wanted to see if anyone else had this problem. By the way, the spindles are Western. Thank you for your help.

[ERASER5]

I'll bet you need a washer to space the upper ball joint properly. It sometimes happens. No big deal realy, but it will drive some guys nuts because the don't think it's "right." You shim and adjust every other part of the truck, suspension included. Upper ball joint shimming is just unusual for factory stuff, but happens with aftermarket stuff.

IIRC, Scotti had a similar problem.

[N2TRUX]

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[lolife99]

Originally Posted by ERASER5

I'll bet you need a washer to space the upper ball joint properly. It sometimes happens. No big deal realy, but it will drive some guys nuts because the don't think it's "right." You shim and adjust every other part of the truck, suspension included. Upper ball joint shimming is just unusual for factory stuff, but happens with aftermarket stuff.IIRC, Scotti had a similar problem.

I'm sure it's ok to shim the "castle nut",... so the cotter pin will line up with the slot in the nut.
But it's not ok to to shim between the ball joint and the spindle.
The taper of the ball joint will never seat, in the spindle.
I would trim the a-arm or remove a little extra material off the spindle first.

[bw4sale]

I had to trim just a little material off of my drop spindle to keep it from rubbing on the arm. It wasn't keeping it from turning, but it was rubbing. Few seconds with the grinder and it was done. Don't know what brand the spindles are but I got them from Brothers.

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I'm sure it's ok to shim the "castle nut",... so the cotter pin will line up with the slot in the nut.
But it's not ok to to shim between the ball joint and the spindle.
The taper of the ball joint will never seat, in the spindle.
I would trim the a-arm or remove a little extra material off the spindle first.

I never said anything about putting a washer between the joint and the A arm. The first complaint was about the castle nut. A washer fixes that. Shimming and trimming should be expected when you move away from stock. It is a customizing opportunity, not a problem.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by ERASER5

I never said anything about putting a washer between the joint and the A arm. The first complaint was about the castle nut. A washer fixes that. Shimming and trimming should be expected when you move away from stock. It is a customizing opportunity, not a problem.

The Op said the spindle was hitting the upper control arm .

You replied, "I'll bet you need a washer to space the upper ball joint properly".

I only assumed you were speaking to the original problem.

Sorry for the confusion,...