02-25-2004, 04:43 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: benton, ky
Posts: 285
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Rear Drum brakes..
Has anyone rebuilt there rear drum brakes recently? I have already replaced my front pads, and now I can feel them starting to drag when I press hard to stop. I am assuming the rear pads are worn, and was wondering if Napa or other likes has the whole kit, Springs, pads and everything else that is likely worn on a 33 year old truck. What should I expect to pay before I get started? Thanks.
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1971 LWB Chevy C-10 350/350 3:42 eaton |
02-25-2004, 04:56 PM | #2 |
Wiseass secured himself a BAN
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: MOON!!!
Posts: 2,282
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Only replace the things that you need. First take it apart and see what needs replacing. It may just be that the brakes need adjusting. It would save you some cash.
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02-25-2004, 05:01 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Memphis, MI
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New rear shoes should only be 16 to 20 dollars, and a hardware kit containing all new springs and retainers is about 8 dollars. You should also have your drums turned, which is about 10 bucks. You should be able to do a complete brake job for 40-50 bucks max.
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02-25-2004, 06:54 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Bremerton, WA
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All new stuff
I just got done replacing everything, front and rear. My favorite local parts store had everything I needed except prebent brake lines, which I got from WES. I spent about $450 on the front (drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, spring kit, bearings, seals, hoses) and $250 on the back (drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, spring kit, brake lines, brake hose). I'm still collecting the parts to replace all of the e-brake cables. I'm sure someone had all the parts for less, but I decided if I was going to do all that work, I wasn't going to use rebuilt parts from Schuck's/Kragen's or NAPA. So, I guess you have a range of prices. If your drums are turnable (mine weren't) and use bottom of the line shoes it can be done a lot cheaper.
Good luck, Scott
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02-25-2004, 07:43 PM | #5 |
Designated A-hole!
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A word to the wise, it is best to do one side at a time, that way you have something to look at to make sure it's right!
Ask me how I know......
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"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck" |
02-25-2004, 08:46 PM | #6 |
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Location: Memphis, MI
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LOL Yeah I know about that too. I just did drum brakes for the first time on my buddies Dodge. Took me an hour and a half to do the first side. Most of the time was spent figuring out a way to get the crap not to fall back off before I could get all the springs hooked back up! The second side only took me 20 minutes.
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02-25-2004, 09:49 PM | #7 |
Beer Power!!!!!!!!!!
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Nacogdoches, TX
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NAPA had everything I needed and I bought new drums and rotors for a lot cheaper than I thought it would be. They have spring kits and all.
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12-01-2010, 07:30 PM | #8 |
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Location: Tacoma, Wa
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Re: Rear Drum brakes..
this is my first time replacing my brakes and I have a feeling i made the mistake of buying the wrong size brake shoes. I recently replaced my rear axle which came with almost no brakes. So before i even took the lid off i went in and bought new ones. The guy asked me if i wanted 13 inch or 11 inch and being a Man I thought bigger is better, not realizing that it actually makes a difference. So i bought the 13 inch. But when i went to replace the first side I went to put on the separator bar i realized that it is TOO SHORT!?!? Can i go out and buy a bigger shoe separator bar or does everything have to be the same as before in order to work?
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12-01-2010, 07:55 PM | #9 |
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Location: Wallingford CT
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Re: Rear Drum brakes..
The parts are very cheap shoes and hardware even drums and leave one side together for reference if you are new at this that way you will have something to look at if you get confused Im no expert but I find it fairly straight forward
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12-01-2010, 08:14 PM | #10 |
Grandpa in the rustmobile...
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Spokane WA/Viola TN
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Re: Rear Drum brakes..
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John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 |
12-01-2010, 08:33 PM | #11 | |
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Re: Rear Drum brakes..
Quote:
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Fuzzy |
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12-01-2010, 11:05 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Russellville, Arkansas
Posts: 1,699
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Re: Rear Drum brakes..
Man, I started to tell the guy that made the first post to redo his math. 1971 C10 thats 33 years old? Then checked out when this post was started. 2004. Somebody dug this up from the grave.
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