Fleetside vs Stepside weight

[codydubb]

Im lookin for all possible ways to shave some weight off my C10, anyone know the weight difference between the fleetside bed and the stepside bed? Or any secrets to loosing the most weight? I've already removed the front inner fenders one gas tank(had a leak anyways) little things here and there.

[mooseknuckles]

relocate the batery to the back of the box, near the right rear wheel. it will help with traction and take weight off the front end.

[bmchevy1979]

And a blazer tank or fuel cell in the rear even more traction

[79bonanza]

nitrous will make your truck feel alot lighter lol

[flamingbig10]

gutted interior, fiber glass hood, bumper, remove any thing that deals with the a/c or heater, switch to manual steering

[codydubb]

Traction isnt too big of a deal ive got wide tires and slicks if that fails ive removed the back bumper already, thinkin about a front roll pan any links to a good looking one? i dont totally want the strip my truck the a/c is out but i dont want to rip my whole inside out either

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by codydubb

Im lookin for all possible ways to shave some weight off my C10, anyone know the weight difference between the fleetside bed and the stepside bed?

Looks like the stepside is lighter per the GM Heritage Data:

Fleetside V-8

Front 2521#
Rear 1551#
total 4072#

Stepside V-8

Front 2519#
Rear 1508#
total 4027#

[knightowl73]

yeah and add fiberglass fenders and i dont think you could have a lighter driver than that. apparently aluminum wheels are a must too.

as far as mileage, i did wonder if taking the inner fenders out was such a good idea. i assume they do something for wind resistance, and helping the wind not go into the engine compartment from underneath the truck, so without them would they create any drag at all? i put mine back in finally after 6 mos of driving without them, my engine compartment looks like one from a mud truck lol. i havent noticed any gas mileage increases either, not like i was figuring mileage at the tiime anyways tho.
just my .02 cents

[knightowl73]

also some aluminum diamond plate on the floor instead of the wood might save you some weight, or possibly aluminum planks instead of wood just to keep sorta a factory look. thats if this kinda thing was in your budget. i assume the aluminum planks would cost quite a bit of there was nothing at lowes close enough to make work.

[codydubb]

How much do fiberglass fenders run??

[flamingbig10]

I haven't seen just fenders but you can get a fiber glass front clip for 2 grand
http://usbodysource.com/

[knightowl73]

same place has the fenders too. they are $798 a pair and come with the steps, looks all one piece. they have the whole fiberglass bed with the the fenders and a smooth fllor, but its twice the price of the front end!

and i dont think a lighter core support could be very hard to make either, i see the g-body cars have a aluminum one that came on some cars , that be nice too. but even a home-built square tube one would save ya some, and a tigwelded one would just be sick, youd see it behind a phantom grille if you are into that kinda look.

this a daily or just a playtoy? seems like alot of money just to drop a few hundred pounds here and there. or ALOT of money to basically have a fiberglass truck.

[codydubb]

Yes that is way too much money to drop some pounds for that much i can throw some smack to it and not think twice. Its mainly my weekend toy when the weather is good i drive her quite a bit around town, when i can afford twenty bucks(at least) everday i drive it lol. the lightest ive heard of a few people getting these trucks is about 3600 lbs

[knightowl73]

well with that kinda compression and a 3500 converter sounds like you already know your gonna be paying for your gas....regardless of anything you do. personally i think all you need is a real beafed up GN 200-4r or a nicely built 700-r4 and youd be good. alot of people dont like the 200's but they have better ratios and are nice if you build them right and keep them cool. have better luck prolly finding a 700 already built though unless you know some Grand National guys like I do

[codydubb]

I had a 700r4 with a 2500 stall and i hated in first gear was great i'd kill anyone out of the hole but first to second felt like it was breathing through a straw until about thirty five hundred and third gear was just a straight up joke, so i ditched it for this piece of crap i have now lol (bad trade) except the converter, im looking to swap it for a th400 probably.

[codydubb]

whats with the grand nationals guys?

[knightowl73]

i have never liked any 700-r4 ive ever been behind, the shift points just seem outta place. although i havent driven a vette with 700-r4 but id expect the same. I have personally had 3 200-4r transmissions and they arent bad at all, just have to be built up.

these GN guys usually are running the factory 200-4r on these turbo cars, and the trans is the last thing most upgrade because they do last alot longer than youd expect. but they are also different from the regular car trannies, and valve body is the main thing among alot of other lil things inside. If you had one of these rebuilt that either came from a GN or was built for a GN that was modified, im sure it would hold up. im almost certain youd like the shift points, they seem right on for performance, and the OD gear is a lil better too if you choose to use it. same precations with the tv cable as you would with a 700-r4 and if you were spending that kinda cash might as well get the best bang for your buck. iI search for all the $50 cores on CL but these lil 200-4r's are getting harder to find. iI dont have any, and if I would have, last week I definately woulda rebuilt a 200-4r instead of my 350 non-lockup. I need two of them mysefl now, and put them in almost everything now. They can take it. Ill get ya some good info and post it later when I get more time. but there is a very interesting article on these trannies in a old hotrod or car craft of something ill try and dig out.

my old boss has a GN and when i found out about how much they were putting through these trannies and how long they were lasting as stock i was dead on them. Not finding one someone took from a GN or T-Type can get pricey. the valve body is like $4-700 new, but it is the one you want to end up with.

[knightowl73]

this is the place to get all the parts from. they are pricey, but its about the same amount if you were going to beef up a 700-r4 the same.

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/al...ower_packs.htm

and here's the list , i got it from another forum, but its what ive went by so far

From the site listed, you need:
#22X. 200-4R Alto oversize intermediate PowerBands. Red Eagle for $28.00

#25X. Alto Red Eagle Master Rebuild Kit for 200-R4 transmissions. Add filter, band and bushings if needed. Cost $231.00

A shift kit, boost valves, and intermediate servo from CK performance - approx $200.00

#26. 200-4R heat treated sun gear shell, much stronger than the original. Cost $30.00

At least a hardened imput shaft(#54. 200-4R hardened input drum and shaft. Cost $237.00) if not the billet one, rebuilt 10 vane pump(at least 10 if not 13 - #5. 200-4R high performance / high volume pump rotor kits. Cost $45.00), deep tranny pan to reduce cavitation of the pump on hard launches, a tranny cooler(if you dont already have one), a new TCC solenoid(might as well replace it while you are there)

Oh yea, and the hardened pump stator(also available from the site listed above)