bear claws with original handles

[skip99]

I've looked at all I can find using search, and can't find what I need, (it may not have been done yet)

Has anyone installed small bear claw latches, using either pushbutton or turn down handles AND used the original interior open and lock mechanism?
kinda like this guy did, but he didnt use the lock part of the original handle.

I would use either exterior type (pushbutton, most likely..because it can be locked at the button.

and on the inside handle I want to be able to pull up to lock, down to open or viceversa, ( switch the mechanisms pass. to dr. side or turn them upside down, what ever works.

I think the trick is figuring out a linkage system at the bear claw...

[52 Rat]

Originally Posted by skip99

I've looked at all I can find using search, and can't find what I need, (it may not have been done yet)

Has anyone installed small bear claw latches, using either pushbutton or turn down handles AND used the original interior open and lock mechanism?
kinda like this guy did, but he didnt use the lock part of the original handle.

I would use either exterior type (pushbutton, most likely..because it can be locked at the button.

and on the inside handle I want to be able to pull up to lock, down to open or viceversa, ( switch the mechanisms pass. to dr. side or turn them upside down, what ever works.

I think the trick is figuring out a linkage system at the bear claw...

I have researched this all weekend. I found one vendor with a bear claw latch that is operational with the push button handle on my 52. The company is Trique Mfg. and this is a bolt in latch and striker. The latch is a little pricey at $350 but it seems to be a nice set up. I'm not opposed to welding in a small or large bear claw latch but I need to use my push button lock handle.

[ChuckDriver]

Here's a few shots from WebRodder done on a 55-59.

[ChuckDriver]

And the rest.

[Thadious]

Here's my take on it...

I looked at the bearclaw latches and like the idea of them... pretty much fool proof positive lock and easy to deal with. While working on my kid's Jeep YJ, I noticed that they incorporate the same parts... so... during my trip down to Portland last spring, I stopped in at a Pick A Part and liberated a set from YJ half door for the tidy sum of $20 (you guys get the best deals btw... $25 each up here!).

Finally got around to it... and so this is what I did...

First drill out the old countersunk bolt holes...


Make plugs, weld them in and grind flush... don't forget to fill in where the old door latch comes through... start with a clean canvass...



I made a cardboard template of what I wanted to cut out and where the new holes need to go, then trial and fit to get it all just right. I made the new opening centered where the old one was so the striker pin would be centered on the door jamb.


Then trimmed off some of the extra metal on the latches that only seems to get in the way. Ground off the peened end of the rivet on the door latches that hold the pivot mechanisms in place (the ones that unlock the latch), and designed a new piece from stainless... as pictured...


Made a new pin on the lathe (both sides) and re-riveted them back together (probably could have cleaned up the old one and just weld it back in) Then made an extended latch pin to clear the door... used the old washer and spring.


Flipped the door latch handle on the inside (don't swap sides) so the handle runs straight across and level (IMO this is the way it should have been done originally if you look at the way the door was made!).


And finally finish off with a electric door opener (popper) at the bottom... connect the cable and you're in!

I know this seems somewhat complicated, but with a little thought and the tools... it's not that hard... about a days work and looks great IMO.

Cheers!
Ted.

[skip99]

Thadious, that set up looks real nice, did you have any interference problems with the window?

I am going to attempt to do the same thing except that I plan on being able to use the lock feature of t he original handle( pull up) AND use the pushbutton handles on the ext....we'll see

[Thadious]

I would think that if you wanted an "up" open, just swap sides!

I didn't have any interference with the window guides... but it is pretty tight in there...not alot of room!

The issue with the lock feature is that the buttons are strictly an "in" feature... and with the window guides being so close... a real pain in the a**! One thing that I did find and was looking into was using the internal mech from a PT cruiser that will turn the straight in push to an up/down motion... then just use a metal rod (take them with you when you get the PT cruiser handles) and bend them to suit!

Just something I was looking into that may point you in a direction of usefulness!

Cheers and good luck!
Ted.

[Big Port Jimmy 6]

Windsor Fabrication makes a kit. They are in the Sachse Rod shop catalog in the body section. http://www.sachserodshop.com/catalog/index.htm

Jay

[smittster]

These are from Trique Manufacturing.

[BigJock]

I saw someone at the HAMB do an install with the Trique kit.
Very nice complete,quality kit.
Some seem to baulk at the price,but then again you can't mess with safety!

I'm seriously considering this kit too.

[52 Rat]

Originally Posted by BigJock

I saw someone at the HAMB do an install with the Trique kit.
Very nice complete,quality kit.
Some seem to baulk at the price,but then again you can't mess with safety!

I'm seriously considering this kit too.

Most overlook the engineering and cost involved to bring a quality part like the Trique latch kit to the market. I doubt Trique is selling thousands of kits, so the price of this kit is not too bad considering their engineering, materials and R&D time. I think I am going to use this kit.

[BlueJeep]

I went with the Trique latches on my truck after wasting too much time trying to get the Autoloc latches to work with my stock handles. I could have got it done, but it wasn't worth the time it would have taken.

[Big Port Jimmy 6]

Those are nice. Jay

[BigJock]

Originally Posted by 52 Rat

Most overlook the engineering and cost involved to bring a quality part like the Trique latch kit to the market. I doubt Trique is selling thousands of kits, so the price of this kit is not too bad considering their engineering, materials and R&D time. I think I am going to use this kit.

I totally agree, it's amazing that someone has gone to the trouble of engineering the kit in the first place!

[drivea55]

for that price I think its a good deal man. for the head ache it stops its all good. we all know how bad these doors are in their stock state.

I am in for a set...

thanks for the reference...

[Houston54]

Here is how I installed them on my 54 using the pushbutton handles.

http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/19808817

If I were to do this again I would space the latch further outboard on the door instead of flush. There is room in the B pillar to receive it and it will prevent intereferences with any door panel you choose to use.

[sevt_chevelle]

A question to those already running the Trique latch. Once everything is bolted up can you just remove the latch and not remove the bolted on panel?
I'am interested in using this latch but the bolt on panel IMO looks like an after thought. Hoping you could remove just latch because I was planning on welding the bolt on panel to the door making it seemless....Eric

[Trucknut57]

Cost around $350 for the set. easy to install.

Heres the link.
http://www.shop.triquemfg.com/Altman...Trucks_c11.htm

[jimig1]

I was just looking at those @ http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/11...all/index.html and was thinking about buying.

[52 Rat]

Originally Posted by jimig1

I was just looking at those @ http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/11...all/index.html and was thinking about buying.

That is the Trique latch that I referenced above. This is a nice set up. I'm going with this latch set up.

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by sevt_chevelle

A question to those already running the Trique latch. Once everything is bolted up can you just remove the latch and not remove the bolted on panel?
I'am interested in using this latch but the bolt on panel IMO looks like an after thought. Hoping you could remove just latch because I was planning on welding the bolt on panel to the door making it seemless....Eric

Yes, I think it's do-able with a little bit of effort. You'd have to get the window channel out of the way, and then the latch is similar to an Autoloc universal one (similar to but not the same), and then a plate sandwiched between the latch and the bolted on panel that has a hole that receives the end of the square shaft on the turn-down style latches. You may want to cut a bigger access hole behind the door panel, but I do think this is a viable option for you. The lever that accepts the square hole just kinda "floats" in there until it's slid on the square, so you'd want to make sure you have room to line it up as you're assembling it.

[sevt_chevelle]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

Yes, I think it's do-able with a little bit of effort. You'd have to get the window channel out of the way, and then the latch is similar to an Autoloc universal one (similar to but not the same), and then a plate sandwiched between the latch and the bolted on panel that has a hole that receives the end of the square shaft on the turn-down style latches. You may want to cut a bigger access hole behind the door panel, but I do think this is a viable option for you. The lever that accepts the square hole just kinda "floats" in there until it's slid on the square, so you'd want to make sure you have room to line it up as you're assembling it.

Thanks, just what I was hoping to hear...Eric