What donor 350 truck to use?

[dcody619]

I've been looking at used trucks with 350's in them? But I'm not really sure what are the best years to look at as donors for 58 1/2 ton stepside. If I can use some of the suspension parts that would be great too but not my priority. I don't know anything about chevy trannys so a crash course would help.

I'm looking for something reliable and not to difficult to work on. Not looking to get massive hp out of it just a good daily driver.

PS What's the 2 bolt and 4 bolt blocks?

Thanks much!

[OrrieG]

I've used 74 Chevy trucks for my donor drive train. 2 were K10 1 c10. All had 350 engine, 350th trans, the K had 203 transfer cases. Axles front and rear were 6 lug with 3.73 gears. For a street engine 2 bolt vs 4 bolt does not make a difference. Mine happens to be a 4 bolt but I have hammered many 2 bolt SBC over the years and never had a failure that 4 bolt would have prevented. Those engines are plentiful, carburated, non-smog in this part of the world. Mine has an upgraded cam, HEI, edlebrock manifold and will have a Q-jet to start out with because I have it laying around. TH350 is readily available, proven and dependable in my situation. If it was 2wd I would run a newer OD model auto (400?). Lots of guys are running newer electronic engines, I prefer to stick with what I have been messing with for 45 years...old dog, new trick thing.

[dcody619]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

I've used 74 Chevy trucks for my donor drive train. 2 were K10 1 c10. All had 350 engine, 350th trans, the K had 203 transfer cases. Axles front and rear were 6 lug with 3.73 gears. For a street engine 2 bolt vs 4 bolt does not make a difference. Mine happens to be a 4 bolt but I have hammered many 2 bolt SBC over the years and never had a failure that 4 bolt would have prevented. Those engines are plentiful, carburated, non-smog in this part of the world. Mine has an upgraded cam, HEI, edlebrock manifold and will have a Q-jet to start out with because I have it laying around. TH350 is readily available, proven and dependable in my situation. If it was 2wd I would run a newer OD model auto (400?). Lots of guys are running newer electronic engines, I prefer to stick with what I have been messing with for 45 years...old dog, new trick thing.

Thanks, so what years other than 74 can i find this combo in? So these are the 4 bolt? Less electronics=less headache 4 noob
Posted via Mobile Device

[bikes&bowties]

2 vs 4 bolt is just the main bearing caps. you can find the 350 through all the years... and you can even get into the90's vortec engines.... they have the same transmission bolt pattern as the earlier gm v8's... and with an aftermarket intake manifold you can bolt on a carburetor.

[dcody619]

D

Originally Posted by bikes&bowties

you can find the 350 through all the years... and you can even get into the90's vortec engines.... they have the same transmission bolt pattern as the earlier gm v8's... and with an aftermarket intake manifold you can bolt on a carburetor.

Is a vortec just as easy to install as a 350 sbc? Are vortecs more reliable than 350's? Which vortec to get?
Posted via Mobile Device

[kieth]

You can go from 73 to 87 pickups or from 73 to 91 suburbans, using the 88 to 91 burb gets you throttle body injection, the brakes are bigger, the axles larger in diameter, the a arms heavier, the ball joints are heavier and you get to go to 5X5 lugs. Also I used the tilt wheel, the powersteering pump, and the vac brake booster.......I paid $500.00 for a wrecked 91 burb with a 25000 mile 350 and a 700r4.........Kieth

[dan76]

Agree with the above folks. A four bolt main (supporting the crankshaft) is always desirable (for bragging rights) but not necessary until you're seeking extremely high HP numbers.

I'd suggest you start researching CA's smog logs prior to selecting a driveline. Occasionally I hear stories of guys spending time/money in getting an older vehicle running and then having the smog folks requiring more time/effort/money to get the vehicle smog compliant.

However if I had a free hand in selecting a driveline, I'd go with an electronic fuel injected engine/trans pulled intact from a donor vehicle. But I also drive in a mountainous region where the vehicle undergoes a 4000' elevation change within an hours drive. If you're using this truck for cruising a couple times of week, then go with a 350/carb and TH 350 trans. It will be less expensive initially and allows some tuning for you.

You'll find the Vortec engines are fuel injected. As the Vortec is based on the original design of the 350 SBC, reliability is the same for either engine.

Post your decision.

[mr48chev]

It doesn't matter a lot as there aren't a lot of wholesale differences. I'd be more interested in getting the engine/trans combination that I wanted along with starting with a pretty good runner. In most areas you can find fairly decent running square body GM pickups with clapped out bodies fairly reasonable and drive them home in the process. That lets you get the engine and trans dialed in and squared away before you swap them and send the hulk off to the land of dead trucks. The back half of the frame and the box do make handy trailers though and title in hand it is easy to get them registered as a trailer.
Just don't pay extra for stuff you won't use on your truck or can't get your money back out of. An ugly set of mag wheels and newer tires has no value to you if you don't have a use or market for them no matter how much the seller thinks they add to the value of the truck. Same with anything else that comes on a doner truck. If it has no value to you it shouldn't be something that raises the cost of the truck.
Right now if I was building one I intended to drive a lot I'd probably look for a truck with a Vortec and fi and swap the whole system over to gain the fuel mileage and power that they have without being modified.

Years ago we used to look on the back rows of the car lots for our doner rigs. That may not work now but having a buddy who works at a dealership or car lot who can find you a real deal on a good running but rough trade in that otherwise would go to auction or straight to the junk yard might be one way to do it.

[jimig1]

Originally Posted by kieth

You can go from 73 to 87 pickups or from 73 to 91 suburbans, using the 88 to 91 burb gets you throttle body injection, the brakes are bigger, the axles larger in diameter, the a arms heavier, the ball joints are heavier and you get to go to 5X5 lugs. Also I used the tilt wheel, the powersteering pump, and the vac brake booster.......I paid $500.00 for a wrecked 91 burb with a 25000 mile 350 and a 700r4.........Kieth

87 Burbs started with TBI that was my first Vehicle and still have it i just wish fuel prices weren't so high. I have been debating if i want to part it out and take the motor and trans from it for my 55

[Trucknut57]

Some differences in the engines are: 73 - 87 engines run a 2 piece rear main seal, perimater valve cover bolts, mechanical fuel pump. the 88 -91 engines use a 1 piece rear main seal, center bolt valve covers, electric fuel pump.

I like the 88-91 engines because I think its eaiser to fix the oil leaks, but that is just my $.02

[dcody619]

Are there any cons to using 88-91 suburbans because so far they sound great.

And do I still have to worry about smog on my 58 truck if I swap all this stuff?

[dcody619]

What do you guys think about a 91 suburban with a 454? or should I stay smaller to keep it simple.

[jimig1]

With a 454 you'll be using more fuel. Just something to think about.

[Indian113]

Originally Posted by jimig1

With a 454 you'll be using more fuel. Just something to think about.

Oh Man what about all that TORQUE? You don't Feel HP you Feel Torque

[jimig1]

Originally Posted by Indian113

Oh Man what about all that TORQUE? You don't Feel HP you Feel Torque

True but it all depends on how much you are driving it and with gas prices especially in CA I was out there a few weeks ago and it was $$$

[Tatt2d51]

I am just starting on a first time project and its definitly not going to be a daily driver but one i can 'play' with.
That being said...I wont care about MPG

[Indian113]

If I was concerned about gas prices I would consider a 5.3 or 5.7 w/overdrive. You can't beat reliability and fuel injection for mileage. I hope to replace my carbed 350 with one in the future.

[dcody619]

I guess you guys have a point...whats the point of so much engine if im going broke to drive it. So ill still to the 350. But is there much difference between 350 carbed and fuel injected?
Posted via Mobile Device

[el_bole]

How easy would it be to put a fuel injected engine into my 61'. I bought a 327 and took it apart and it will cost way to much to rebuild. So I am debating between a 350 and 305, which is better overall?

I'm also in SoCal and gas is steep so I'd like some ideas about and "easy" fuel injected engine to put in my pickup that has reliability and power....Can you give a bro some info?

Thanks....
P.S. WAS sUP dcody619? Hello from chula vista...

[Indian113]

There is a whole section for fuel injection in the engine section. Those guys will help us a lot if we ask! I found a 5.3 with air compressor and power steering pump and alt with computer and wiring, it has 115,000 miles but should last longer than I will for $600.00 in Iowa

[jimig1]

I had a rebuilt in 350 TBI in my burb and I could get around 13 -17 MPG. My uncle has a truck with a 454 and it gets 8 mpg no matter what even hauling stuff. I know it is not a huge difference but if you are going to put on some miles you could save some cash.

[dcody619]

Originally Posted by el_bole

P.S. WAS sUP dcody619? Hello from chula vista...

Hey Bole I'm also in CV.

[el_bole]

Originally Posted by dcody619

Hey Bole I'm also in CV.

Cool...so you got a 58? I almost pick up one of those in Anaheim but got a 61' instead. I think I lined up a 305 with a tranny tonight from a friend of mine so I might be selling off my rebuilt 350 heads....just an FYI...

[el_bole]

In case you need em' lol