I have a valve problem. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Bigblueburban · 01-02-2011, 08:16 PM

Ok so this is my first post on the website but Ive had my burb for awhile. But! my problem is that my brother just got USED tank, two compressors, and valve setup. but looking at the valves and reading everyones valve setups on here they look to be wrong. Im not positive so looking for some direction. should I use this (and if so then how????) or should i break it down and reroute them for fbss. here are the valves and water trap. if anyone wants pics of the tank or compressors for reference lmk.

baggedout81 · 01-03-2011, 06:42 AM

Check this link out.Everthing you pretty much need to plumb an wire up for air
http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index...owtopic=406790

I've used compression fittings before.They work fine.You just have to make sure you get the sleeve seated right other wise it wont seal.Plan on buying more sleeves than what you need cuz your gonna need them.Your bound to mess up on a couple.I know i did

smashingchuck · 01-03-2011, 03:26 PM

you can use that configuration - it will work just fine.

Mikedub82 · 01-03-2011, 07:14 PM

I would get rid of the push connect fittings/air line between each valve and just use brass fittings to connect them, I have had bad experience with that type of connection in the past. The more air line and push fittings you have the greater possibilitie you have of leaks.

smashingchuck · 01-03-2011, 09:22 PM

the only place I see a PTC is on the ends of the dumps so thats not really an issue.

Bigblueburban · 01-04-2011, 01:38 AM

I'm assuming the push to connect fittings are the yellow plastics on the end. Ive been looking at my tank and trying to figure out how it was connected. I have an 8 valve tank but it has 4 fittings on each of the ends and two compressors. I'm always learning so thanks for any and all help
Posted via Mobile Device

tubbedII · 01-04-2011, 06:10 PM

The way it's layed out in the 1st pic, it won't work if you just plug it all in. Looking at the bottom row of valves only, the middle T looks to be the inlet from the tank, then the T on the left hand side would be going to a bag. The 1st valve in that line would be the fill and the other would be the dump. On the other side of that, the 1st valve would be the fill, but then there should be a T which one went to a bag and the other to the valve for the dump. You just then need to copy that on the top row by simply connecting a line between the T on the very left to the valve next to it on the right.

The 2nd pic...don't understand the T coming off the trap as typically you mount the trap between the compressor and the tank. Maybe the PO put the trap between the tank and fills. You're better off mounting it the 1st way to minimize the water in the tank in the first place (which is only a little bit of minimizing anyways).

Also, PTC fittings work well as long as you cut the air line correctly. Both PTC's and compression fittings have their issues, but both don't leak if done correctly.

One other thing...test the valves before you plumb them to see if they all work...it'd be easier to service them now before you mount them.

Bigblueburban · 01-07-2011, 12:54 AM

Wow tubbedII thank you I know completely understand how it works. How would I test them just hook it up not in the truck ?
Posted via Mobile Device

tubbedII · 01-07-2011, 03:08 AM

Yup.. u just wanna make sure they activate when you hit the switch. It looks like everything OS already wired too, so you wanna make sure the switch is activating the right valve.
Posted via Mobile Device

baggedout81 · 01-07-2011, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigblueburban

Wow tubbedII thank you I know completely understand how it works. How would I test them just hook it up not in the truck ?
Posted via Mobile Device

A 12volt source is what you want.Red to + Black to -

Them are good valves btw.They look to be ODE.

I'd try an clean up that wiring mess.

Bigblueburban · 01-07-2011, 09:09 PM

The previous owner has the remote control set up for the switches so I gotta buy a 10 switch box. Good to hear they are possibly good valves. Ya I think I'm gonna clean it up though I hate dirty wires
Posted via Mobile Device

baggedout81 · 01-08-2011, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigblueburban

The previous owner has the remote control set up for the switches so I gotta buy a 10 switch box. Good to hear they are possibly good valves. Ya I think I'm gonna clean it up though I hate dirty wires
Posted via Mobile Device

I have a brand new AVS 9 roller rocker clear box 4 sale.It's brand new out of factory boy never used

Heres a link to where i have it.Serious offers welcome

These sell for $130 thru AVS just to give you a idea

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index...c=571488&st=20

01-02-2011, 08:16 PM	#1
Bigblueburban Registered User Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tampa Florida Posts: 53	I have a valve problem. Ok so this is my first post on the website but Ive had my burb for awhile. But! my problem is that my brother just got USED tank, two compressors, and valve setup. but looking at the valves and reading everyones valve setups on here they look to be wrong. Im not positive so looking for some direction. should I use this (and if so then how????) or should i break it down and reroute them for fbss. here are the valves and water trap. if anyone wants pics of the tank or compressors for reference lmk.

01-03-2011, 06:42 AM	#2
baggedout81 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: manhattan KS Posts: 87	Re: I have a valve problem. Check this link out.Everthing you pretty much need to plumb an wire up for air http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index...owtopic=406790 I've used compression fittings before.They work fine.You just have to make sure you get the sleeve seated right other wise it wont seal.Plan on buying more sleeves than what you need cuz your gonna need them.Your bound to mess up on a couple.I know i did

01-03-2011, 03:26 PM	#3
smashingchuck It'd be alot cooler if you did Join Date: May 2003 Location: Three Rivers, MI Posts: 2,345	Re: I have a valve problem. you can use that configuration - it will work just fine. __________________ 78 Build Thread 4Runner Build

01-03-2011, 07:14 PM	#4
Mikedub82 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: "THE BIG EASY" New Orleans. LA Posts: 108	Re: I have a valve problem. I would get rid of the push connect fittings/air line between each valve and just use brass fittings to connect them, I have had bad experience with that type of connection in the past. The more air line and push fittings you have the greater possibilitie you have of leaks. __________________ Get Low

01-03-2011, 09:22 PM	#5
smashingchuck It'd be alot cooler if you did Join Date: May 2003 Location: Three Rivers, MI Posts: 2,345	Re: I have a valve problem. the only place I see a PTC is on the ends of the dumps so thats not really an issue. __________________ 78 Build Thread 4Runner Build

01-04-2011, 01:38 AM	#6
Bigblueburban Registered User Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tampa Florida Posts: 53	Re: I have a valve problem. I'm assuming the push to connect fittings are the yellow plastics on the end. Ive been looking at my tank and trying to figure out how it was connected. I have an 8 valve tank but it has 4 fittings on each of the ends and two compressors. I'm always learning so thanks for any and all help Posted via Mobile Device

01-04-2011, 06:10 PM	#7
tubbedII needs more $$$ Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Sacramento Posts: 1,936	Re: I have a valve problem. The way it's layed out in the 1st pic, it won't work if you just plug it all in. Looking at the bottom row of valves only, the middle T looks to be the inlet from the tank, then the T on the left hand side would be going to a bag. The 1st valve in that line would be the fill and the other would be the dump. On the other side of that, the 1st valve would be the fill, but then there should be a T which one went to a bag and the other to the valve for the dump. You just then need to copy that on the top row by simply connecting a line between the T on the very left to the valve next to it on the right. The 2nd pic...don't understand the T coming off the trap as typically you mount the trap between the compressor and the tank. Maybe the PO put the trap between the tank and fills. You're better off mounting it the 1st way to minimize the water in the tank in the first place (which is only a little bit of minimizing anyways). Also, PTC fittings work well as long as you cut the air line correctly. Both PTC's and compression fittings have their issues, but both don't leak if done correctly. One other thing...test the valves before you plumb them to see if they all work...it'd be easier to service them now before you mount them. __________________ 1970 2wd Blazer

01-07-2011, 12:54 AM	#8
Bigblueburban Registered User Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tampa Florida Posts: 53	Re: I have a valve problem. Wow tubbedII thank you I know completely understand how it works. How would I test them just hook it up not in the truck ? Posted via Mobile Device

01-07-2011, 03:08 AM	#9
tubbedII needs more $$$ Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Sacramento Posts: 1,936	Re: I have a valve problem. Yup.. u just wanna make sure they activate when you hit the switch. It looks like everything OS already wired too, so you wanna make sure the switch is activating the right valve. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ 1970 2wd Blazer

01-07-2011, 09:09 PM	#11
Bigblueburban Registered User Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tampa Florida Posts: 53	Re: I have a valve problem. The previous owner has the remote control set up for the switches so I gotta buy a 10 switch box. Good to hear they are possibly good valves. Ya I think I'm gonna clean it up though I hate dirty wires Posted via Mobile Device

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