frame off restoration questions

[rideorange812]

where can i find a guide to mark my frame and the correct colors for all the misc frame parts and what not. please give me a guide in direction thank you.

[ETsC10]

I went on the same quest a few years back (but lost interest in the excitement of my truck running).

I would go to the TOTM area, look for the bone stock trucks and see if those members have some research they would share.

True to stock restos are a class in themselves. Have fun and post up some pics along the way!

Subscribed!!


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[sameyrasmea72]

Alot of semi-gloss black and cast iron color and you will be good to go.

[Duncan and son]

Originally Posted by sameyrasmea72

Alot of semi-gloss black and cast iron color and you will be good to go.

Jason probably knows as much about "correct" restoration as anyone on here. His truck will have all the correct stencil and grease markings. There are several more... Dan Tippmann and Harold Shepard to name a couple.

[NoNeck]

I don't know if this helps, but when my son and I were restoring our first 1969 Camaro we researched all the correct finishes for the subframe on a concours resto. I would expect some of the specifications would carry over to the C10 pickup (or at least the 1969). At the very least, these specs would result in nice, original looking frame.

The frame was painted using Ditzler DAR-9000 with 33% DX 265 flattening compound.
The upper and lower A-arms use the same DAR 9000 with 25% flattening compound.

The steering box is natural. The upper cover is aluminum with zinc phosphate bolts. The natural finish was covered with a layer of Cosmoline lubricant (to inhibit rust) from the factory.

Upper control arms were generally about 33% gloss, but they can range all the way up to 100% Gloss (whatever GM had on the shelf that day). The washers on the control arm bushings are unpainted. The disc brake setups used gold cadmium caliper brackets with natural color calipers, rotor and spindle. The mount on the frame for the brake line is dipped in black paint and uses a zinc phosphated bolt. The washer and bolt atop the shock mount are both cad plated.

The lower control arms were gloss black and the steering linkage is natural. The cross shafts were sometimes painted with the upper control arms, but in most cases were natural. The alignment shims were unpainted and finished in silver cadmium. The studs that mount the upper control arm to the frame are zinc phosphated and use a locking nut that is cadmium plated.

The steering arm that bolts to the back of the spindle is natural finish. The lock nuts that hold the steering arm to the spindle are silver cadmium. The bolts are zinc phosphate. The drag link, idler arm and tie rods are natural finish.

The backing plate for the brake rotor was cadmium, although some were natural. The ball joint nuts could be cadmium or natural. The stabilizer bar is natural, and the stabilizer link is cadmium plated. The stabilizer link stud is zinc phosphate with a silver cadmium washer and a cadmium plated nut.

Factory wheels were dipped at the factory in 70% gloss black paint, then the front side would be painted body color (or argent silver for the rally wheels). Overspray on the back side of the wheel should be hardly detectable.

The coil springs are a natural finish. Most, but not all, shocks were a flat, dark gray.

Information I have on Inspection Paints:
Chevrolet Orange - DQE 60339
Identity White - DAR 8367
Yellow - DAR 81348

This info was compiled over 15 years ago, and paints and processes may have changed. There may well be a more complete, concise database on these paint specifications.

Just trying to help... I am NOT an expert!

Thanks - NoNeck

[Vintage Windmills]

Good info Noneck!