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07-12-2003, 08:43 PM | #1 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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Need help fast power steering gear box
I decided to replace a leaking seal on my power steering gear box. The seal is located under the rag joint. I have the gear box off and took the rag joint off, then the snap ring. Now I need the dust shield then the actuall oil seal off, but cannot figure out how to get them out. What do I do? There's a piece that the snap ring fits into that has two hole 180 degrees out and I figure a pin style spanner wrench then below that there appears to be a hex shaped piece about 2.5" across but that will not budge. How do I get the dust shield and oil seal out? This is on my 70 K25.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
07-12-2003, 09:44 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Shelbyville, KY
Posts: 3,261
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Not sure on a 4x4 but if it's anything like a 2x4 and it probably is----you have to unbolt a locking bolt that goes thru the rag joint holder to get that off. I loosened the bolt thinking it was just pinching the rag bracket but---it actually goes thru and the steering shaft coming out of the box is sloted for this locking bolt. Got to take that bolt all the way out then the bracket just flops off!! Next is the hex shaped locking washer which will unscrew with a good rap counterclockwise. that should give you access to the upper shaft seal for replacement. Be careful not to invert the box or pull other stuff out as there is a bunch of ballbearings in there that can come out if not careful. Good lucck---Huck
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07-12-2003, 11:31 PM | #3 |
"Ochre Ogre"
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Springfield, MN
Posts: 3,558
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Once everything is undone, I have heard some people use the PS pump pressure to push the seal out.
__________________
Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087 |
07-13-2003, 07:10 PM | #4 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
|
Huck your right. Used two pipe wrenches and one good smack and off it came. Got it back on, got the air out and went for a spin-no leaks. Thanks
__________________
1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
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