HEI hookup ?

[Tuck]

I have an eccel hei with the serperate coil.

I know about the restistor wire, But my question is I took the harness apart and replaced the ignition wire with a #12 from the firewall fuse block to the coil and back to the starter. I basicly just changed out the wire.

Will this give me a full 12 volts to the coil?

I am just trying to start my newly rebuilt motor and the spark is week.

I called Accel and they told me to check all the grounds.

HELP.

[CPNE]

Most people just run a 12 directly from Ign Unfused on the fuse block to the hei, but I'd assume your method will work too.

I'd check the ground straps to the engine. There should be one from the head to the firewall and another from the block to the frame.

[ddsmith]

Tuck this should give you 12V to the coil, but you shouldn't need to hook the wire up at the solenoid. That was initially there to provide a full 12V during the time the starter was rotating the engine and then the resistance wire dropped the voltage to the coil to prevent point burn out when the ignition key went back to the run position. With the resistance wire removed and 12 gage wire run from the fuse box you should have 12V at the coil from that path constantly. That takes away the reason for having the "R" terminal hook up on the solenoid.

[Tuck]

It runs now that I grouned the distributer better.

I will remove the R terminal wire from the starter and see if it will still start. If it does, concider it gone.

Thanks

[Blue68]

It will....Assuming the other wire is solid. This is what I've done. First time around I reused the Packard Series 56 connector. But I'm in the process of running my choke, fuel pump and torque converter lockup wires through the engine harness bulkhead so I had purchased some new series 56 connectors and re-ran an all new piece of pink wire. If you have any of the white wire still in the line, you will not be getting 13 volts to the distributor (that's not a typo). You may want to get a really good volt meter (digital if you got it) and check the voltage at the distributor and at the battery and make sure you aren't getting an unacceptable drop. If you have halogens, lots up upgrades, a few items hanging off the unfused links on the fuse box, etc., this is a possibility as well.

[Tuck]

I removed the white wire completly and replaced it.

As for the unfused conectors , I do have the radio and the A/C system connected to it.

Do you think this could be an issue.

I can move the radio wire to tpig tial to the old wire.

[Blue68]

They will only be a factor when they are running full power. Most likely, you won't notice any degrading of performance. It's just one more area where 30+ year old wiring meets higher demand components.

You would have to run a relay for your ignition. I wouldn't sweat it unless you are running some potent amp or something off that stereo jumper. Then you should be going direct to the distribution block for you stereo power anyway.