still getting water from compressor to tools

[jasonroman]

have a home depot compressor.
originally piped it with black pipe.
was told i needed more space inbetween tank exit and my lines.
so i added a couple feet...maybe 10 ft of pipe and 2 water seperators.
still ended up getting water at tool.
hook up air bit and sometimes water would shoot thru.

then i was told i still need more space, for air to cool or something..
so now i have 2-or 3 10 ft lengths of pipe in between joice, and then another 5-10 of pipe with 2 seperator in there.

and still having water issue....

i need to figure this out before i start spraying primer.

also, if i hook the compressor up and run air tools....dont have power.
i mean i have power, but tools dont work the way they should.

i actually have to hand crank off wheel bolts on truck to loosen and then the tools work.????

need help here.

.
thanks
jason

[cdowns]

if you go to TPTOOLS website they have a great schemayic on setting up an efficient air system

[leddzepp]

There was a great article in Custom Classic Trucks last month detailing this type of set-up.

[jasonroman]

thanks for replies.
im gonna check TPTOOLS and see if i can find it.
dont have last months issue so im lost there.

gotta find an answer to this problem.
no reason why tools shouldnt work
and when they said add extra piping, i added plenty. and still have issues??

thanks for replies fellas

[jasonroman]

took some pics...

just added the orange set up...thinking ill try and run tools off that.. closer to compressor.
maybe im loosing air before tools??? so i figured id try this.
not sure if it will work or not. but i really dont know.

[Orangetonicclicc]

I saw this guys thread. He was having that problem. maybe he can help!
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=318544&page=6

[donut]

My 2 cents (if it's worth it). I don't know how restrictive your separator is, your spare setup should help diagnose.

Usually I try to minimize the number of fittings. They are restrictive. I'd also run a hose from the compressor to the pipe run. That way you can isolate the vibration.

Pic 4, that little loop, it's a low point with no drain. I'd pull one of the 90's and install a "t" with a drop leg and a valve, if I couldn't find another way to run it. For all you know, that section could be full of water.

[jasonroman]

i looked at a little bit of the link that was posted.
now, to me, he took 25 feet of pipe, and looped em close. i ran it up in the bays. didnt get a chance to read 23 pages.
as for mine, ive piped this thing like 4 to 5 different times.
still coming up a looser.
then new orange kick off was done today. was hoping to see if i use that for tools, what kind of result i get.
if im loosing pressure in my 30 plus feet of piping, then ill run close to direct for tools. and hopefully they work as should.
and hopefully figure out how to get it right for paint.

i am no shop. just a guy learning...or trying..

first attempt

and a shot of how i originally piped it...shows i dont know much

[donut]

I do remember posting in your old thread. What you had originally isn't much more than what I'm running.
How humid is the area where your compressor is? High humidity days I'll run into water issues. Keep your tank drained, it acts like a separator on its own.
Low points in your pipe can act as a trap, holding water, they need to drain someplace. I still would run a hose from the tank to the pipe. Vibration will bust your piping.

Your 30' of pipe, you shouldn't lose much pressure. Your pressure will equalize, it's the flow that can slow down. Someone else recently had flow issues and it not running the tools, iirc it turned out to be mismatched quick connects.

High humidity days and a lot of air usage I'll take a 50' airhose, throw it into a bucket of water, then plug in a second separator outside the bucket. Plug my workhose into that.
That simple setup does remove a TON of water. I've had to do that when running my cheap DA, needle scaler, and my spray gun.

I'm not a shop guy either, this is just what worked for me.

[jasonroman]

thanks for replies.
i gave it another shot. added a couple more shut off valves to get rid of caps.
drain water.
and another one of the orange set ups.
gonna run one for tools, shorter run from tank
and see what happens if i leave the 2 runs in the bays and added the second orange set up at the end. for paint.

ill post pics tomorrow, and run compressor tomorrow and see waht kinda results i get.

thanks again

[crushermechanic]

my shop at work has several hundred feet of air line and i can run any air tool at any drop in the shop including the 1 inch impact. it uses tons of air and i dont have a problem till the tank bleds down. your lines should not affect your tools. it sounds like you have a restriction somewhere in you plumbing or couplers.

[jasonroman]

Hoping that by taking off the home depot filers witch needed reducers to 3/8 from half on piping it will help
Also. Not so worried about a little water at tools. More so about tools not working properly. I have to use hand tools to brake stuff free.
How would fittings be restrictive?
Posted via Mobile Device

[donut]

Originally Posted by jasonroman

...How would fittings be restrictive?
Posted via Mobile Device

Not all of your quick connect fittings out there are the same. They may look like they're connected properly, but a minor difference could keep them from fully seating. Kind of like putting air in a tire, but not having the air chuck square with the valve stem.

Don't forget a couple drops of the recommended oil in your air tools.

[truckdude239]

water separator need to be inline with you tools not off tot he end and caped

[dadsworktruck]

i'll have to agree with "cdowns" got to tptool.com, find there air line hookup section and read up on the way they do it, i took that info(thanks tp tools) and went to the big box store and bought pipes and fittings using tp tools as a guide, i am not endorsing tp but hey, it works...you stated you didnt mind a lil water at your tools, well any will ruin air tools, i added a oiler in the mix on my second line, but found i didnt like that, so i now oil all my tools thru the air inlet. here is some pics, it dont look pretty but it works, good luck...don

[mudmizer]

I built my own dryer after trying a few of the smaller dryers. I know a nice expensive one would probably work, but I,m on a budget, pluss if I can save money somewhere I can spend more on needed parts. I used 30" of 3" heavy pipe stuffed it with BRASS wool, welded round plates on both ends. drilled and tapped a drain petcock on the bottom. Drilled and tapped an air inlet coupling about 2" off the bottom. Drilled and tapped 2 air outlet couplings at the top. The brass wool cools the air coming in and it drops the moisture to the bottom. This setup works very well and tools and paint guns have not had any ait issues. Good cheap dryer.

[DesertCat]

every body shop I worked at had a large diameter standpipe (like 4") right off the compressor that went to the ceiling. A smaller diameter pipe tee'd off the top and ran downhill at least 20 feet with about a 4" per foot drop (angled downhill), which tee'd into near the bottom of another 4" standpipe. The final airline takeoff was well above that tee.

The reason? Lower velocity in the large diameter standpipes, high velocity in the smaller downhill run. Finally the moisture crashing into the second standpipe (again low velocity so the droplets tend to fall out of the airstream.

This was all done with black steel/iron pipe for cooling. Petcocks at the botton of the standpipes and a simple water trap where you hooked up your air hose.

I always installed a mini trap on my guns... very rarely had a problem.

[jasonroman]

well yesterday i decided to re-pipe the compressor.
found a link on line showing a nice set up, with inclines and declines... all with traps here and there..
so i attempted to do the same...mine dont look as nice as the pic i was looking at. but generally the same concept.
after all said and done....i think im getting water build up from the begining.
i turned on compressor. and in the time it took it to fill, i think i may have noticed a drip somewhere. so i shut it off. and drained it cuz i had a small leak at the filter.
good thing....the filter actually spit water out for the first time since purchase.
bad thing...all i did was fill compressor, found a leak. shut off and drained lines...and water was evident.

[mbgmike]

We live in a high humidity area here. After fighting the problem even with a built in cooler on the comp. we bit the bullet and purchased a dessicant dryer from Sharpe. Costs money and you have to replace the dessicant but it solved our problem. I was very happy we had virtually zero water at least none that yiu could see. i know about budget's but the money was well worth it. A wife might not think so however.

[72lb4x4]

In the 1st pic of post 5 you have the dryer/filter, reg. and oiler next to the compressor.

Water vapor will blow right by the dryer in the hot air.
You may not want to use the oiler, or not put any oil in it (ever) if you plan to paint. Any hoses for example that had oil run through them should never be used for painting. Or so I've read.

In the 4th pic of post 5 you appear to have a low spot where water can collect in the pipe by the wall to the right of the orange cord.

Same pic, you seem to be increasing the diameter of the pipe and in another pic it appears you reduce the diameter when it comes out of the compressor. This reduce, expand, reduce action is probably a bad idea. I'd run the biggest diameter until the very end of the line.

The black regulator is before the filter. I'd put it after.

The piping should all be slanted something like 1/4" per foot so water has to drain either back to the tank, or toward the dryer.

My admittedly sort of not so good system uses a 3/4" ID flex line to 3/4" black pipe running 20' along the garage wall and 20' back. Then a filter/dryer, regulator and quick disconnects. All the lines are tilted toward the filter/dryer

I get water in the tank that I drain every day the compressor is used, but strangely, no water in the filter/dryer and none in the tools. My air toys work great.

BTW, you are draining the water from the petcock in the bottom of the tank periodically, right? This doesn't help much at the tool, but its bad form to let water build in the tank for any length of time.

Are your ball valves the kind where the hole in the ball is the full ID of the pipe?
There are arrows indicating direction of flow on the regulators and filters. Make sure air is flowing in the right direction. Its basic I know...

Water in your separator is probably a good sign. That's where you want it.

"i think im getting water build up from the beginning" The water is in the air all around us. When the air is compressed, the water (vapor) is also compressed. Since the air (and water) is heated as its compressed, the water is harder to separate until it cools. That's why you want a minimum of 50' of 3/4" black pipe before the water separator. It helps cool the air and begin condensing the water.

It will help to let the compressor run to fill the tank (if its empty), then let it cool to allow the water vapor in the tank to condense in the tank before you start to work. Of course this isn't always practical. Then when you use some air and the compressor cycles on, there's some cool air already in the tank to help cool the "new" air.