Spring Removal/Cutting tips??

[lilpoindexter]

When I took my springs out, even with the ball joints removed, and the lca pushed as far down as it would go, i still had to use a pry bar to get the OG spring to pop out.

[cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n]

Originally Posted by Cherub

Man I guess I just dont do it safe. I use a BFH and tension to get the ball joints to drop out.
Posted via Mobile Device

Im confused, BFH = big freakn hammer? and tension to remove balljoints??? You lost me.

Originally Posted by tazman87

one guy with his foot pushing down the lower arm, then you yank it out. easy for me to do

Originally Posted by JAG66

1 full coil cut off = ~ 2". Use a cut-off wheel. The ride is fine.
For safety, I run a chain through my coil spring and slowly lower LCA with a floor jack until spring is unloaded to keep coil spring from flying out. Lot of stored energy there. Will probably still have to spread control arms apart with a pry bar to get the coil out.

So you guys say when the spring is fully released of tension, the lowers will still not wanna let the sprind drop out?? So u have to force the LCA downward, to remove the spring??

I planned on running a chain thru the spring so if it were to "spring off" is would be stopped by the chain. I bought some 5200lb test with 5/8 Hardened hardware.

Originally Posted by mentlmidget

I have removed my 87 c10 springs in that manner safely. I agree, only cut 1 coil, then buy the lowered spring if you want it lowered any farther. AND CUT using a cut off wheel, not a torch or not a plasma cutter.

Just my opinion. $149 and less for a dropped coil spring.

Coil Reasoning: In short, by cutting the spring, you change the physics of the spring.

It was explained to me this way: "No you don't change the steel, no you don't change IT- IT is still a spring. You change the leverage of the spring. Pull the coil spring straight, you have a lever. Cut a coil length off the now straight spring and you have less leverage. It will be more difficult to lift your object. Coil the spring back up. You have just increased the resistance of your spring. Enjoy your bouncy ride."

One coil, no big deal. The more you cut, the more bounce you will get, the less affective your spring will be. Cut until you have 2 coils left. You might as well be riding on blocks of steel or take the springs out.

Have I tried 2 coils? no. I ride on air.

Perfect! I dont plan on going more than 1", more like 3/4..... so when say 1 coil, do u mean a "C" or an "O" hahahah

Originally Posted by lilpoindexter

When I took my springs out, even with the ball joints removed, and the lca pushed as far down as it would go, i still had to use a pry bar to get the OG spring to pop out.

So u agree? guys say when the spring is fully released of tension, the lowers will still not wanna let the spring drop out?? So u have to force the LCA downward, to remove the spring??


THANKS!!

[JAG66]

Yes, usually with full coil, you will still have to force the LCA down to remove it. It can also be forced down by hand. Of course, when you cut some off, it should be easier to remove next time.
One full coil is the "O".
Don't mean to confuse, but one downfall to cutting half a coil is getting the bottom coil to seat into the pre-formed recess of the LCA. When you re-install the coil, you'll see what I mean.

[Cherub]

Originally Posted by cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n

Im confused, BFH = big freakn hammer? and tension to remove balljoints??? You lost me.

THANKS!!

Naw, to get the ball joints to drop out of the spindel.

[1LowToy]

Sorry to go away from the popular vote. I'd never cut a spring again.

Put the spring in a press for example compress 1" heat as needed the second from the top coil, 3/4 around until the 1" come out of it and cool in your 5 gallon waste oil bucket. 1" shorter is a 1" drop. I say heat the second from the top so the coils do not contact each other when compressed. Any more than one inch buy the 2" coils and go from there.

I did only 5/8" off a new spring and got just that.

Again sorry to go against the popular vote of cut vs heat. Heating done correctly is better.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 1LowToy

Again sorry to go against the popular vote of cut vs heat. Heating done correctly is better.

It's not a popularity contest, its about a proven method that works safely or one that will ruin a spring.

The method you have described is exactly what you should NOT do. By applying excessive heat to the spring, you have diminished the molecular integrity of the metal. The heating and the rapid cooling or "quenching" process will make the steel brittle and eventually lead to collapse or breaking.

Just because you have done it in a manner that is known to be unsafe and got away with it, please don't try to promote your improper practices to those that might not know better.

[JAG66]

Originally Posted by Cherub

Naw, to get the ball joints to drop out of the spindel.

I use a Snap On air hammer kit with a pickle fork attachment. Takes about 5 seconds to break it loose. But the BFH works too.....about an 8 pounder. May take several hits. You'll know it when it comes out. Watch the fenders BTW.....