Room behind seat

[Figment412]

How much room do you have behind your seat with the gas tank removed. Any one have measurements off hand like the distance to from the top and bottom part of the seat back to the cab? Also the height from the bottom of the cab to the top of the rear seat back. Thanks

[Figment412]

No one can help me out here?

[Locutus]

In the all the way back position you should be touching or almost touching at the top and you have like 9 inches at the bottom.

Mike

[Figment412]

thank you so much

[Figment412]

Does anyone thinks it is possible to fit a JL 10w6v2 beind the seat?

[jjk3]

I pulled my tank out of the cab today, so if you give me a day or so I can post the measuremants you need. I steam cleaned the carpet and painted on the cab floor so its all got to dry. Do you have any dimensions for the JL 10w6v2?

[Figment412]

Mounting depth is 6.9" and the mounting hole diameter is 9".Not sure of the rest exactly. I can not find the magnet diameter on the website. I was planning one making a 3/4" mdf frame and actually have the rear of the encloser be fiberglass to add a bit more room

Thank you soo much for your help

[Iceman7642]

i fit 2 truck sub boxes for 8" subs back there and still had room left over

[Figment412]

What are the dimentions on your box? I may have to go with a different sub but I love that JL.

[Chad]

I did a custom subbox in a friends 70' with the gas tank removed. We did two fosgate 10's. We got 2 cubic feet out of it and that was with a recessed amp rack in the middle. So, your sub of choice should work. Don't have any pics, but you will have plenty of room with a glass back. Another thing to note, we did have to mount the speakers very low in the box for the magnets to clear the back wall. But again, with the glass back it will be better. Also, he had redone all the interior and we thought it was pretty rattle free. After we installed everything, the whole truck rattled. So, you might think of using some sound damping material on EVERYTHING.

Later,
Chad

[Figment412]

The mounting depth is the only real concern. I have tried to make a few designs but nothing seemd to come out right, although that is always much different than the real world situations. I have also thought about making the front of the box fiberglass as well that way I can make sure that I get the most room out of that box.

I am Planning on sound deadining the whole cab but not sure what to use yet. Should I put sounds deadining on the back of cab before I glass it?

I am still a ways off from doing it but I like to make plans eairly.

[Chad]

I would dampen the rear of the cab. And do it before you lay on the fiberglass. Just be sure to put some foil on everything you will glass. I have done a few boxes with fiberglass rear panels but never one fully glass. I have picked up lots of good stereo info on www.carsound.com and www.termpro.com both have good fourms.

Heres a good tip for any place that has large flat runs (i.e the back of the cab). Lay down one or two layers of glass, then lightly glue in some strips of rope. Then glass over that. This gives you better strength. Fiberglass is superstrong when it is formed around bends. Large flats runs tend to be strong but flemsie. Also, use wood braces. So build the box alittle big and brace the heck out of it.

Any-hoo, look at the forums and you will have many, many ideas. I don't do this for a living or anything, I just have been into the stereo scene for a long time.

Chad

[Figment412]

Thanks for the info. I was planning on haveing the sides be 3/4 MDF and putting woob bracing on the back like you suggested. I never thought of using rope, what type and size do you suggest using?

[Chad]

Any kind of rope will work. I usually use 3/8" or 1/2" cotton. It's just there to give the glass the shape. Of course if it is soaked in resin it would become real hard. In extreme SPL situations I have heard of people using aluminium rod. I have never tried it. Too afraid it would rattle between the glass. I am going to try it soon though just to see. Guess I'll have to make sure the glass is real tight against it.

Also, I am going to try to make kick panels out of glass for our trucks. I know you can get them in ABS plastic but my dads rattle. I am thinking I will cut into the metal part of the kick and weld in a recessed 'bucket' to get some more room. I think I can get a 8" midbass, a 5 1/4 midrange, and a tweet in there like that. I have an advantage over a truck as I am in a Blazer. For subs I am going to make a fiberglass box for the sides. Each will hold two or three JL 10's. Also in the sides will be recessed amp racks. I will make covers for them so no one will know its there

Later,
Chad

[Figment412]

Sounds great. I am very interested in seeing how you do the kicks. Keep us informed

[Blue4x4]

I pulled out my tank and built a speaker cabinet/storage area to install where the old tank was. Using 2...10" MTX speakers. After building the box, I took it to the dealer where i bought the speakers and let the tech measure the box and mark-out the correct size of the 2 chambers. Then I took it home and cut the front and removing the center section, then blocking off the cambers. On both ends the speakers were located. The center section was open. I install a door, that folds down. Had the whole thing upostered and installed it. I used dynamat on the complete interior.....no distoration at all. If you really want to save some $$$$$ a hardware store sells the same style stuff as dynamat. It's used on roofing repairs. I spent $ 220 on dynamat. My brother bought the other stuff and spent $ 25.00. works just as good. Good luck.

[Figment412]

I have decided to play it safe and go with an e8a. An 8 inch woofer and give it about 500 watts. Not sure sure about whether to seal or port the box. The depth on this is on 5.04" which I know that I can get. Thanks for all your help.