Omodified's 1970 SWB Custom/10

[omodified]

dmxxpert - I haven't heard of Dave's but I will be sure to look him up. Honored to be your first post here...:welcome:

VA72C10 - thanks Bud!

Geoff - Thanks for the suggestion. That is something I need to do for sure. I think I remember noticing the valve cover to cab grounds straps missing.

[omodified]

Started working on polishing up the wheel trim rings and caps. Once the dirt was removed from the trim rings, it became apparent that I had two chrome and two stainless. They look much better, but they are a bit scratched and dented. I suppose new ones will be in my not so distant future. The caps however, looked much worse. It took lots of time to get them to shine up and I removed the silver paint on the bases. I think they turned out pretty good. Also, this truck had a hodge podge of different lugnuts. So, I bought new ones from O'Reillys. I also got some new screws from member PT's 70 CST. Thanks Dude!



Even though the chrome is shining now, I am still not happy with how it looks. I've seen a few rides around here that had color matched rally wheels. I really like the looks of that, so I am thinking of going that route. Also, I changed my mind on the caps. I have been looking at some 2007 Chevy truck caps on Ebay. I found a brand new set at the swap meet and the vendor was asking half the price of Ebay. So, I went ahead and bought them. Also, found specialty 7/16 thread out oem lugs on Ebay that will make these new caps work with my truck. Can't wait to get them on.

[omodified]

Well, this is a follow up to the headlight flashing problem. The alternator didn't seem to fix the issue. So, I have decided to replace the headlights next. After some research, I decided to go with Silverstars. Once I got the old headlights out, I realized the headlight buckets needed some attention. They only had some surface rust, but since they were easy to take out, I decided to go ahead and restore them. Took them to work and media blasted them. Then repainted them gloss black. I forgot to get pictures of them while they were out, but they look real nice. Also, went ahead and polished the headlight trim rings. BTW, that was a pain in the butt. I knocked two tabs off both rings while polishing them. Fortunately, I was able to TIG weld the tabs back on with some stainless filler. Last, I polished up the headlight bezels and they look much better. I put it all back together and now I just need to line them up correctly. Time to see of the flashing gets any better.

Here are the buckets installed, it's the shiny part lol.



Finished product

[omodified]

Got another rainy day part to add to the pile...

[VA72C10]

Nice work! Love the writeups!!! Really a big improvement with all these projects!!!

[Palf70Step]

Your truck is really nice. I love the attention to details you are doing and great write-ups!

[gcburdic]

doing a nice job omodified!!!

[72SWBChevy]

Welcome to the board! Looking sweet!

[ChuckDriver]

You are doing some awesome work! Love the detailed write-ups!

[omodified]

Many thanks to all of you guys for your kind words. After reading a lot of different build threads here, I decided that I wanted to be able to look back when we're done and remember all the little things we went through. It's nice to know you all appreciate reading what I have to say. I am really thankful that this forum is available for us to be as detailed as we like. I am still tryting to catch up to current times. I am getting ready to start writing about the exciting times of August. It may slow down a bit over the next week due to the truck not being in my possession right now. I am taking the evenings to do a special project with a friend at his much larger shop. He has a lift!!!

Thanks for continuing to check in and please check back.

[omodified]

Got some more rainy day parts in from Summit. Uh, it's starting to look like I might need two consecutive days of rain lol. The black engine bay theme is starting to present itself!

The current valve covers are leaking down the side of the block. So, I might as well dress them up when I do the new gaskets.





and the air cleaner HAS to match.



Plugs and wires looked ok, but I would feel better if I knew what I had for sure. Now I will know...

[omodified]

I got hooked up today. We are on the K&N deal at work. Since the truck will use the same air cleaner filter as our race cars, it was no problem for K&N to promo one to me. Guess I'll add it to the rainy day pile.

[gcburdic]

I wish I had a friend with a lift Looking forward to seeing what's up in the air with the truck!!!

[omodified]

So, I finally got a night to update some progress. Been very busy with work and a few hours each night working on the truck. I was suppose to work a double tonight but it didn't happen. So time for some writeups!

I came out to the garage and found some coolant on the floor. It was piled up right underneath the overflow tube that just kind of hangs down behind the bumper. I never really liked it hanging there and I certainly don't want coolant leaking on my garage floor. So, this prompted me to start searching here about overflow tanks. Much to my surprise, these truck didn't even come with them. I started compiling as many examples from here as I could find, trying to come up with some ideas. I knew I wanted to stick with the black theme. So, I decided to go the Corvette route again and now we have matching resevoirs under the hood. No more coolant leaks on the garage floor!





By the way, I had to replace my radiator cap to enable the coolant to return to the radiator once it cools down. It was a $6.00 purchase from AutoZone.


Also, while I was working on the right front, I decided to take advice from member gcburdic and start checking all the grounds. For one, the cable from the negative battery post to the block was corroded and frayed. So, it got replaced. The positive battery cable appeared to be ok, but was a bit corroded at the starter. So, it got replaced. Last, there was this block hanging down from the fender with wires attached to it. I wasn't sure if it was ground wires or something that should have some power going to it. I had taken some pictures of engine bays at a recent car show. Many of them happened to show examples of this block bolted to the inside of the fender. Oh ok, it's a power distribution block. The PO had bypassed this block and wired directly to the battery cable and it didn't look great. So, since I am here I might as well take the time to make it correct and safe!

[omodified]

OH NO!!!!!!!!!!

Major problem to tell you all about. I was so happy with the radiator overflow project, you can imagine how unhappy I was to find an even bigger puddle of coolant on the garage floor. To my surprise, it looks like it is leaking from the passenger side drip rail on the radiator support. I am now wondering if something wasn't leaking all along and causing the puddle I thought was from the overflow tube. Weird thing is that it wasn't dripping when I discovered the puddle, so it must only be leaking when the system gets pressurized. So, I went to Autozone to rent a radiator pressure pump. Hopefully I can find the leak and it will be an easy fix. I wish! As soon as I got about 15 lbs to it, it busted a hole in the passenger side bottom. Now the thing is leaking when it's not pressurized. The dissapointing thing is the the PO had just installed this thing not long ago. It still had new looking decals on it from the manufacturer. Well, I think it's beyond repair at this point. Time for an upgrade. Here is the replacement. Now we just need time to install it. Come on rainy days!

[omodified]

Got some more rainy day parts in from Summit. Those guys must be starting to like me...I got Summit Bucks!

New transmission gasket and filter...





New short, high flow water pump, powder coated black of course!





New thermostat, 180 degrees.





Last, a new 100 Amp, black powder coated, internally regulated alternator. Time to free up some space on the core support!!!

[omodified]

So, I was sitting around thinking about the days when I used to be able to drive my truck anytime I wanted. I remembered thinking it was weird that as I am driving, and I step on the gas, the thing won't downshift into a passing gear. So, I set out to research the problem. By looking here and few other places, I was able to figure out that I have a TH350 transmission. Then I read about this kickdown cable thing. Make sense to me that it needs adjusted. I read all about the proper way to do so and it seemed fairly straight forward. So, I visit the garage. Trying not to vomit at the dripping sounds from the radiator, I began looking for this kickdown cable. It wasn't where everybody said it would be, next to the carb. So I found a picture of what it looks like at the transmission. Back to the garage and underneath the passenger side. Yikes! Would you believe that the PO cut the stupid cable about 6 inches from where it mounts to the trans? Unreal! At least it explains the passing gear problem I was experiencing. Time to find a replacement. It must have been a sign that I needed to do this project next, because as soon as I logged onto the classifieds section here, there it was! Member dag19 was selling a nice stainless Lokar kickdown cable. So i scooped that up real fast (It's one thing that I have learned here, you have to visit frequently and be super quick in the classifieds section if you want a good deal). Thanks dag19!





Now that I have the new Lokar piece, it was time to replace the old one, or should I say 1/8 of one. I was really worried that by cutting it, it may have caused the little connecting rod to drop down inside the pan. Fortunately, it didn't. It was all still intact and I was able to successfully make the swap. Well, at least on the transmission side. Since I am planning to put this shiny new Edelbrock carb on some day soon, I will just wait to hook up the other end of the kickdown. Here is my old 1/8 of one kickdown cable...

[camrycurt]

Originally Posted by omodified

By the way, I had to replace my radiator cap to enable the coolant to return to the radiator once it cools down. It was a $6.00 purchase from AutoZone.

Cool thread with lots of great ideas!

What radiator cap did you have to get to enable the coolant to return? I'd like to do this upgrade and want to make sure I get the correct cap.

Thanks!

[omodified]

67cheby and oldtinrods - Thanks a lot guys. Keep checking back!

Geoff - Ya, out all the things that I have done so far, leave it up to me to mess something up like the battery clamp. Atleast I found a good resource in the process. Thanks again!

camrycurt - Thanks for the compliments! As for the cap, I would recommend this Stant model. It is 13lbs and will work with open or closed systems. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=48502 There have been some good discussions here about this subject. Advantages seem to be higher boiling point = better cooling, no puking/leaking messes in the garage or driveway and no more topping the radiator off all the time because you keep losing coolant. It was a no brainer for me. Looks like most Advance Auto stores sell the Stant model too. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...110944&ci_sku= Good Luck and keep checking back!

[Dmnys]

love the truck! a gr8 buy if you ask me, love those gauges. one of many things in my to do list!

[VA72C10]

Sorry to hear about the issues but some nice parts replacing the old ones!!! Really like the overflow container...I might have to copy you

[3970010]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Sorry to hear about the issues but some nice parts replacing the old ones!!! Really like the overflow container...I might have to copy you

I also like the overflow idea... Plan to do the same with my truck!
Posted via Mobile Device

[VA72C10]

Looking good! Engine bay and front end look great! Nice improvement!!!

[omodified]

Does anybody know what this is???



Here is a hint. It used to look like this...even with the engine running.



Well, I didn't know what the first pic was either until today. It's a working ammeter gauge! I saw where somebody was selling a new gauge here today and it got me thinking about mine not working (well I wasn't real sure if it did or not). So, I did my research here and found that I should check two inline fuses under the hood. I couldn't hardly get the housings to come apart. I ended up busting the fuses in the process. What was left of the fuses seemed to be welded in place. It took some patience to remove the carcasses but I got them out. I went up to Autozone and bought two new 4 amp mini fuses. Installed them with dielectric grease and EUREKA... a working ammeter gauge!

[omodified]

Made some progress over the last few days. I bought a used tailgate band from a board member with the intention of restoring it. As you can see, mine was a bit tattered...



Well, the one I received was in worse shape than mine so I set out to restore my original. First I straightened out the area that was bend up and nearly broken off. Then I hit it with 3M 3 minute epoxy. Next I stripped off the old wood grain tape with acetone.



Next, I stripped off the old black paint. This was a bit harder to do than the woodgrain, but the acetone works really well and did not mess up the finish underneath. I ended up with a nice new surface to work with.



I roughed up the new surface with scotchbrite and got to taping. I found a new spray paint from VHT called chassis and rollbar paint that I wanted to try out. It has epoxy mixed with the paint so there was no need for primer. It sprayed on really well. I went with 5 coats total. No runs and it sprayed really even. I polished up the old metal letters and attached them to the band with the 3 minute epoxy. Here is the finished product!



It looks just like a new one! I am super happy with all the money that saved. Now I have to do the rest of the trim to match!