Shimming my starter

[jdheff1982]

Once again, I had to pull the starter cause it died. The mounting bolts were still tight; however, I think at least 1 of them is bent as it would loosen and tighten as I backed it out of its' hole.

Anyways, I got to looking at the drive gear teeth and they are ground flat. From what I have read, this means the starter needs to be moved closer. So, I need to add 1/2 shims to outside mounting pad. I am having a hard time wrapping my head around how doing that causes the starter drive shaft to move closer to the flywheel.

Would the flywheel grind the drive gear teeth from the initial install if the starter was not sitting close enough? Even though the starter was working fine?

Thanks.

[maskale]

the shim pivots the starter closer to the flywheel,

depending on how close or far away the starter is determins how long the teeth will last, to tight is bad and so is to far away.

did u have any shims in it at all? if so remove those, removing shims that go all the way across will also move the teeth closer. If ur getting a new starter I would not assume it needs shims, each install the teeth need to be checked and shimmed as needed.

[jdheff1982]

I got the new starter installed. No whims needed. Some how or another, autozone has been giving me the wrong starter. The one I got this time has 3 terminals instead of 2. It sounds much more energetic than the last 3 starters I burned through. Hopefully, it will be a good while before I need to change it again.
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[piecesparts]

When you install a GM starter, you should measure the gap between the starter drive gear tooth and the valley in the flexplate where it engages. That gap should be equal to the size of a large paperclip. Use one as a wire gauge feeler to measure the gap for proper engagement.

[one low c10]

I always swap out those old starters for the newer gear reduction starters. I got mine for like a 96 blazer. they are way lighter, smaller, quieter and more powerfull! plus I have never hadd to shim one yet. they are perfect for headers.

[BLE 'BURBAN]

The best way I have found to shim a starter takes a bit of time but I have found that taking this extra time eliminates alot of headaches later on and longer starter life as well.

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove flexplate dust shield from bottom of tranny.
3. Remove the starter from engine.
4. Remove starter solenoid from starter.
5. Remount starter WITHOUT the solenoid to then engine.
6. Reach up and pull back on the plunger to move the starter drive gear into the teeth of the flexplate.
7. Using a wire feeler gauge measure the gap between the tip (crest) of the tooth on the drive gear and the bottom(valley) of the teeth on the flex plate. It should be no more than .060" NOTE; A large paper clip works well for this measurement if you don't have a wire style feeler gauge
8. If it's right, put it all back together then you're good to go. However if it's too tight or too loose, then you will need to shim it.
9. If it's too tight start with a shim that's .015" thick and shim both mounting points between the starter and block then measure again. If it's too loose then shim out ONLY the outer mounting bolt to cause the starter to tilt into the block.
10. Play around with the shimming until you achieve the proper gap of .060"
whether it's by no-shim ,full shim or half shim on either bolt.
11. Once you've got it set put'er all back together and drive on.
Yes it is time consuming and tedious but you will be pleased with the end result.

[69heavychevy]

another vote for a late model gear reduction starter...less bulky, quieter, clears headers, and no shimming. just ask for a starter on a 98 chevy tahoe at the parts store.

[jdheff1982]

I will keep that in mind when and if the current starter fails.

Thanks.

[KQQL IT]

i order them for a 98 2500 with a 7.4

[one low c10]

they are all the same from the 4.3 to the big blocks. autozones part number is DL9990 just for reference.