body torque specs

[michaelnolimit]

Put new body bushings under a 74 blazer 4x4. Does anyone know the torque spec and possibly sequence to bolt the body down. Thanks.
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[michaelnolimit]

I thought with so many knowledgeable board members this would be a simple question. I find it hard to believe that not a single person has replaced there body bushings. Thanks anyway guys.
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[BigBlocksRule]

There may be members who have swapped the bushings, but most of us just tighten 'em down until just before they break
I use torque specs on engines and drivetrains, never heard of 'em on body panels, etc.

[greguw]

I'm sure there is spec's on the body bolts , they are a 1/2 grade 5 bolt so I would say 75 dry and if you antisize the bolt 50 foot lbs ... general rule till the bushing squishes and a little more .

[Keith Seymore]

agree - and there is no sequence. Just tighten em down as you see fit (just make sure the body is sitting straight on the frame rails).

K

[michaelnolimit]

I did find a link on the web with a factory assembly manual diagram for the fully removable top. Factory ass. Manual says 35-55 foot pounds. I went 45. Met in the middle. But it did have a VERY helpful diagram of the body and mounts and how spacers are used to adjust door to fender and door to rear quarter GAPS. Without this diagram I would have never gotten the doors to align properly. So through my dedication I found the correct information to do the best possible job I could do to not create more problems down the road. Such as paint chipping every time I close the door because I tightened the bolts twice the amount needed. I ask that everybody strive to do the best possible job so that are hobby may continue. To many of my customers complain of poor jobs because the last specialist didn't take the proper steps to ensure a quality job. I care about my product and service and will do whatever it takes to ensure the job was done properly. 6 hours to find torque specs and sequence. But it saved the body guy hours of labor trying to get panels to fit properly. Wich in the end saves you money.
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[Keith Seymore]

You seem to be much more dedicated than the individuals that put them together in the first place

Funny story about those "spacers" - or what I presume to be multiple shims taped together: We used to run a particular set up, like maybe three shims taped together, and each truck would get that package whether it needed it or not.

We would run that way until I got a call from the supervisor in Final Repair, who would say something gracious like: "YOU F#*K%N@ IDIOT!! ARE YOU EVEN LOOKING AT THIS $#IT YOU ARE SENDING ME!! FENDERS ARE 1/4" HIGH; ARE YOU GOING TO MAKE ME COME BACK THERE AND FIX THIS XX#@T MYSELF?!? I WILL GET YOU FIRED AND FIND SOMEONE ELSE TO RUN THAT DUMP!!"

So - at that point, I would quietly hang the phone up and tell my guys "...take a shim out".

We would run that way until the next phone call from Final Repair.

This cycle would continue over a period of ten or fifteen years worth of production.

(lol)

K

[tobiahr]

Originally Posted by michaelnolimit

I did find a link on the web with a factory assembly manual diagram for the fully removable top. Factory ass. Manual says 35-55 foot pounds. I went 45. Met in the middle. But it did have a VERY helpful diagram of the body and mounts and how spacers are used to adjust door to fender and door to rear quarter GAPS. Without this diagram I would have never gotten the doors to align properly. So through my dedication I found the correct information to do the best possible job I could do to not create more problems down the road. Such as paint chipping every time I close the door because I tightened the bolts twice the amount needed. I ask that everybody strive to do the best possible job so that are hobby may continue. To many of my customers complain of poor jobs because the last specialist didn't take the proper steps to ensure a quality job. I care about my product and service and will do whatever it takes to ensure the job was done properly. 6 hours to find torque specs and sequence. But it saved the body guy hours of labor trying to get panels to fit properly. Wich in the end saves you money.
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So to further educate the other board members so in the future we can help others with this question, would you be willing to share the information you found or at least give us the link so we may view it ourselves? if not a link maybe the search terms you used and which search engine you used.

[68Timber]

Post a link to the sequence so it'll come up for the next guy that does a search. I'm a big fan of torque specs myself because I will over-tighten 100% of the time without them.

[madcow75]

We want the link for the torque specs and the body panel alignment shim link . PLEASE

[michaelnolimit]

Customers pay alot of money so I try to make it as nice as possible. I used two 3 inch washers with a half inch hole to shim the body to get the doors correct. I'll try and post a pic. Don't know the link. But I did Google search the forum and found it here on the site. does the site have a Android mobile phone app I can't seem to upload pictures from my phone. Someone post an email and ill email it to you and you can post it. Since I'm computer retarded.
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[michaelnolimit]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=197565



That should be the link. I'm getting pretty good with this high tech internet gizmoniss.
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[tobiahr]

thanks michaelnolimit. knowing where to find the information is half the battle. knowing how to use it is the other two thirds

[Keith Seymore]

The only comment I would add after reviewing the link is: keep in mind, those body mount shims are released "as required".

That means that in production shims would be added or removed as needed. As body mount locations on the frame float up and down during the model year (or over the course of several model years) shims would be added or removed to compensate.

So the take away here is: you can shim body mounts and affect fender to door fits. I would not take the number of shims at the various locations as "gospel" (ie, your results may vary). And - in my experience - it can change if you take the same vehicle apart and put it right back together again.

K

[michaelnolimit]

I agree. I did use the diagram as a guide. I torqued to spec. And the top of REAR fender to door gap was touching. Un-torqued and put in 1/8 spaceer re-tourqed to 45 pounds and door gap was perfect. Other side was different. Required two spacers. Re-torqued and door gap was perfect. Always a margin for error. That's why they have torque and assembly manuals. would not surprise me if when I take body off for sandblasting and undercoat, after reassembly need different spacers in different locations. But atleast I know proper ass. I've done it once already. After paint should he no problem. One hour a day for a year will get the project done. Keep working guys and well see you on the road in no time.
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