10-09-2011, 10:04 AM | #1 |
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Location: Kingsport Tn
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removing control arms
I have a 72 chevy longbed that i am restoring now. I have the bed off and doing a lot of sanding and scraping on the frame. I would like to remove the control arms so i could get them sandblasted and also install new bushings. Is there a certain procedure to follow on removing them? I just don't won't the coil springs popping out and hitting me or the rearend moving on me.
Thanks for any help. |
10-09-2011, 10:12 AM | #2 |
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Location: Overland Park, Ks.
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Re: removing control arms
With the proper jacks & stands it is not problem. After disconnecting the shocks & pandard bar just lower the rear down. These truck springs dont grow like car springs do.
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10-09-2011, 12:13 PM | #3 |
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Re: removing control arms
If you have the choice,go to 3/4 ton trailing arms(control arms) they have a strengthening brace.Or you could add support to the ones you have.I say this because i believe in only doing something once.
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10-10-2011, 08:31 AM | #4 |
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Location: Santa Clara, Utah
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Re: removing control arms
Get a welder to run a bead around the split line in the middle where they are rivited together. Then buy metal straps and lay them along the top and bottom and weld the perimeter. I used two widths as the front half is not as wide as the back. I removed a rusted set of arms and after 10 minutes of hitting with a hammer I had a pile of rust and scale on the garage floor and not enough arm left to reinstall. In the old days ECE sold a set of plates to install on the top and bottom but when I called for a set they said sales were down now folks can buy a whole new set of arms. Luckily I have a 220 welder and am now finishing up the third set of these. It makes a big difference in how the trucks feels in corners to beef the arms up.
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10-10-2011, 09:53 AM | #5 |
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Location: Jackson, MS
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Re: removing control arms
Mr. Campbell, would you happen to have a pic of one of the finished arms. This sounds like something I would like to do when I change out bushings and springs. I can picture it in my head, I just want to see if my head is on straight.
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10-11-2011, 10:05 AM | #6 |
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Location: Santa Clara, Utah
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Re: removing control arms
Should be able to post a picture as the partially finished set is still in my garage. It will be next week though. If that won't work let me know. I bought bushings at Early Classic. First set came with their plates back when plates were available. Second set for my buddies Blazer were home made straps and it worked great but then i didn't have to pay a welder.
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10-11-2011, 01:35 PM | #7 |
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Re: removing control arms
CPP sells a strength support for the trailing arms if you dont have the resources to fab your own.
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10-11-2011, 02:00 PM | #8 |
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Location: Tulsa, ok
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Re: removing control arms
+1 for picture. Head on straight or not, I still can't picture...
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10-13-2011, 12:53 AM | #9 |
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Location: Santa Clara, Utah
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Re: removing control arms
If someone still has some for sale I wold go that route. The set I bought came with new bushings so it seemed worth it.
The straps are flat but as they are layed on the top and bottom of the trailing arms and tacked in place they bend easily to conform to the arm. If you make your own then you have to drill holes for the u bolts and spring cup. |
10-13-2011, 02:53 PM | #10 |
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Location: Jackson, MS
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Re: removing control arms
Next week for pics sounds great!
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10-13-2011, 03:00 PM | #11 |
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Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas"
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Re: removing control arms
The coils won't pop out. When you loosen the U-bolt retaining nuts, it will allow the axle ass'y to be loosened. There are bolts that come from beneath the control arm that hold the coils to the control arm. Until you take them loose, the coils won't go anywhere. With no tension on them, there's no problem. These coils don't have tension on them, like the front ones do.
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