Wiring for future audio

[Zebb]

Soon I will be putting my cab back on my chassis and will be wiring it. While I am doing this I wanted to run the proper wiring for stereo components installed at the end of the build. Can you guys point me in the right direction as far as what I will need? It would be much easier now then after everything is together.

This is what it will be.
86 reg cab
DIN head unit in the dash
Probably only 1 sub behind the seat but should plan on two
Amp either under seat or behind seat
6X9's in the corners
2 front speaker not sure if in the kick panels or factory location yet

I know this is not much info without having the components yet. I just didn't want to have too small of a wire somewhere or stuff routed wrong. I want to save the stereo research for the end but thought I could get the basic wiring in the cab and ready for when that time comes. Is this even possible without knowing specifics about each component?

Thanks

[WAAF]

few questions..
are the front and rear 6by9's gonna be powered by the head units amps or an amp under the seat your list makes it look like the amp is for sub(s) only..
this will change how you run speaker wire for the 4 speakers..
next.. if only one amp for sub(s) . or an amp(s) to run subs and full range speakers
what type power you want.. 50x4+sub 75x4+sub.. this will change the power cables you run for the amps..

we know you are running at least one amp.. so it's safe to say run a blue wire from head unit area to where you are going to install the amp. or leave enough extra so it'll make it to either spot.. this will be your amps remote turn on..(think relay trip +)
you'll need rca cables for the head unit to amp.. if running just the sub.. one set if running the sub and 4 channels through amps.. you'll need 3 sets (right rear/leftrear/right front/left front/sub L+R) the amp power cables and inline fuse all depend on what you do 1 amp 2 amps watts ect but plan on 4gauge power and ground from battery to cab where amp(s) get mounted.. inline fuse on + cable
hammer out whats powering the 4 speakers and we can go father on what you'll need

[beach]

You definitely want to plan ahead...you will need a power wire with fuse(min 8ga but i would run 4ga so you could run 2 amps if needed later)from the battery to wherever you will mount the amp,a remote turn on wire, a ground wire (preferably the same size)I like to try to bolt mine to the frame and run to the amp location, you will need 2 or 3 sets of RCA cables depending on what head unit and amp or amps you choose(one for the front, one for the rear, one for sub channel)they will run from the receiver to the amp/amps, and you will need to pull speaker wire from the amp to wherever you plan to mount your speakers (i would go ahead and run some to the kick panels so you can add them later without removing the carpet)... this may be a little overkill but it should be all you will ever need unless you plan on a competition system...then you start talking about 0 gauge power and that gets very expensive and is hard to hide...go ahead and plan on spending a little money as good wire and cables are not cheap but they will make a good bit of difference if you plan on using a good quality equipment...http://www.audiosavings.com/index.aspx.....has some pretty good prices on a lot of stuff....GOOD LUCK

[Zebb]

I knew that this wasn't going to be just an easy answer...lol
Here is some more info on where I am going.
I was never into the booming bass stereos but I understand the need for subs.
I never built a system with subs either. I do however like loud music, that is clear and not drowned out by bass. It will be in a lifted 4X4 with mudders so I will need some power when I feel like rocking. I want to design something that I can listen to the news/talk radio and then at the same time be able to listen to metallica/skynyrd/judas priest...I just have not gotten into the research yet on what I want. Just like everybody else I don't want more into the stereo than need be. That's why I was saving it for near the end.
So any input as to how and what you would do would be great.

[dmwphoto]

I would go by the audio store that I planned to purchase components from and get their suggestions for this.

[WAAF]

i'll say
amp (4 channel) for the 4 speakers and another amp(mono) for the sub
or you can get a 5 channel and have one amp do it all..
the power cables i listed are good for both..
you'llneed 3 sets rca cables (leanth depends on where you mount the amp(s)
75x4 should do it. and a sealed sub box. with200-500w amp..
your head unit of choice and speaker wire.. and the speakers you plan on running..
I nd going to a store and looking around..

[Zebb]

So I should be covered if I run 2 4ga wires for power and ground to the amp location. The remote wire from head unit to the amp(s) location. Speaker wire from the amp(s) to the to speaker locations. 3 RCA cables. Correct?
Where should I be with the speaker wire gauge?

I appreciate the help. Doing it this way will give me a much cleaner installation.

[WAAF]

14 gauge for the 4 speakers and 12 for the sub

[Dunenutt]

Plan on more bass than you think you will need. Mudder howl will suck the bass out of the cab. I have two 10's in my F-250 pointed at my back, at 65 it sounds like a tin can in there. Tires are 36x12.50 hummer tires, and they scream.

[Blue72slab]

Good advice on the wire above. One thing that I found is keep the power wire and speaker wires (RCA) as separated as possible. We ran all of them down one side of my sons car and had ignition noise until we switched the RCA cables to the other side. I would also plan on some type of sound deadening material in the cab and panels behind the speakers if in the doors. Dune - you may hear the bass better if you point the subs at the back of the cab. I have read some interesting info on that.

[jimmydean]

I like to run my wires either along the trans tunnel or along the edge near the door sill. As long as you keep the power wires and the audio wires separate, you shouldn't have issues. I tend to run power on whatever side the battery is on, in my '66 this is the passenger side. So all speaker and RCA's go on the drivers side with as much separation and shielding as I can.

[Daze57]

skynyrd and priest are good - try some humble pie !!!!!!

[vegas80step]

see if this helps: I had to tweak them a bit..

if you have a head unit with 2 rca outputs:



if you only have one, you can split the rca's:



the splitters I'm talking about look like this:

[Daze57]

vegas80step

where you at ? am building a 57 could use your audio advice

[vegas80step]

I'm over in Aliante. how about you?

[Daze57]

am over by the red rock station - could use some ideas

[WAAF]

the o/p can get by with running 2 sets of rcas to the amps.. most amps now have an rca output so you can daisy chain them.. if you do it this way.. it saves you on cable.. if the head unit has a set of SUB RCA's use them and a 3rd set of cables.. that rca output will only be bass and you adjust the cut off(crossover) on the headunit

[WAAF]

Originally Posted by vegas80step

see if this helps: I had to tweak them a bit..

if you have a head unit with 2 rca outputs:



if you only have one, you can split the rca's:



the splitters I'm talking about look like this:

few things here.. no need for that splitter as most amps have rca out so you just daisy chain them..

your diagrams great BUT.. if you are running a cap.. there is no need for that power block..(the block looks pretty and all but I'm cheap) battery to inline fuse to cap and then to amps.. the + post on the cap you run the + lead to the amps..
saves you from buy'n the block.(ya I'm cheap) and with these truck cabs the one farad cap will be fine hooked to both amps..
note read the instructions that come with cap's they can kill you.. and if you ever have to work on the wiring. you have to discharge the cap.(mine came with a restor or diode.. read the instructions 3 times.. touching the + and ground will shoke the crap out of you..
so cover the conections after it's installed so nothing can cross both terminals. they make a mess when they go boom

[vegas80step]

hey hey hey, don't knock my google find... lol
I like power blocks, only be cause I don't like the look of a bunch of wires coming off of the cap. plus like you said, they look cool...

but that being said, In my ford I have everything running off of the cap. it's all shoved under my rear seat so I dont care what it looks like.

the amps I just got do have an rca out which is cool, thew one in my ford do not. So I split them in the back by the amps so I onlyhad to run one rca back.

one thing I've never used is the "ground block" showed above. I just ground everything to the car. or if it's close I'll run everything back to the cap and ground the cap. (less spots to "come loose")


And come on, your not living until you have shocked the crap out of your self with a cap.. the possible death thing could suck though....

[WAAF]

HA.. last truck I had I welded the speakers and ground
no one was stealing the speakers.. and no chance of a bad ground.. and no terminals(yup I'm cheap)

[john_p]

want do save a few bucks on speaker wire? go to lowes and buy a 50 ft ext cord, 10 or 12 gauge 3 conductor.. i've done this for several systems, then put the male plug back on any left over ext cord.. i ground the 3rd wire on both ends to act as a shield

now i do not run 300 db thumper systems.. number 4 for power? the last set of landing lights i installed at the airport just called for number 6.. but to small is a problem and to large is impossible

[motornut]

bought my wire off the roll at home depot
cheaper then packaged stuff