Anyone use the mono-leaf's to lower the rear?

[Lost 40]

I am trying to avoid C-notching my rear frame to achieve6-7" of rear drop. I already have drop shackles, and was thinking if I used one of these mono-leaf's that can provide additional drop, that it might work. I also am concerned that this may diminish ride quality.....

Anyone out there used these products or tried something like this? Here is how my truck sits today....

I was hoping to go down 2 mor inches in the front (which I can do with springs), and 4" in the rear. It currently has a little rake to it......

[N2TRUX]

Who sells a mono leaf for C-10" I have seen them for S-10 but never for a C-10. If it were me I would move the spring hanger up and remove the thick overload leaf from the bottom of your spring pack.

[J Knight]

I've never heard of a mono leaf set up for c10s either. You are realy not going to get more than 5in maybe 6in of drop without a c-notch but that's pushing it. You need a bare minimum of 2in clearance for suspention travel.
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[Lost 40]

Here is a monoleaf from Brothers that I was looking at.

http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...number=MLSS087



Here is another one if your using Caltrac's

http://calvertracing.com/splitmonoleaf.php


I already have the drop shackles and the underside of my bed knoctched out to accomodate the most drop with the shackles that I can get with out doing a flip. I have a C-notch kit/flip kit from McGaughey's sitting in the garage, but I have reservations about notching the frame.

[1BadAction]

From experience tuning trucks with monoleafs, there is no way I would do it to my own truck without cal-tracs. If you think stock 1500 spring packs are bad about axle wrap and wheel hop, just drive a truck with the monos. I think the ride is actually decent, but their ability to control the axle sucks.

[Lost 40]

Originally Posted by 1BadAction

From experience tuning trucks with monoleafs, there is no way I would do it to my own truck without cal-tracs. If you think stock 1500 spring packs are bad about axle wrap and wheel hop, just drive a truck with the monos. I think the ride is actually decent, but their ability to control the axle sucks.

Ok, thanks for the advice. The intent of my build is for street, so in your opinion, Caltracs and a monoleaf are probably alright then?

[1BadAction]

Ride is subjective, but I think it's excellent for a lowered sport truck. Along with the cal-tracs, correct length shocks with appropriate valving for lowered trucks are also needed to keep the ride comfortable.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

With a mono leaf panhard and sway bar with the Caltracs should make a comfy and great handling truck. Get some quality shocks and some front end work and I'm sure you will be surprised at how well these can handle
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[Lost 40]

I think I still have plenty of room to drop. See the pic below. I have 4.5 inches to the top of the bumpstop, and if I remove the bumpstop bracket, and put a shaved down version directly on the frame, I can gain a little more...

I am thinking of a monoleaf with 2" of drop to at least get rid of the rake I have and level it out. The Caltrac system looks promising since the split monoleaf and caltracs are designed to work together. I already have Belltech spindles on the front with a front swaybar. Add a rear swaybar as well, along with new shocks all the way around, and the Caltrac bars and monoleaf, I should be good to go!

Thanks for all the feedback guys. Now I just have to save some money for the purchase of these goods. Thats gonna go over like a fart in church with my wife.

[cochino12]

I had a mono leaf on my old burb, it was made by alcan

[Lost 40]

Originally Posted by cochino12

I had a mono leaf on my old burn, it was made by alcan

Did you like it? Any issues?

[N2TRUX]

Normally I recommend removing the bottom overload leaf since its about 3/4" thick, but it looks like someone has already removed a couple of leafs from your pack. It may be too soft with that many leafs out.

If your looking for an economical drop until you can afford the mono-leaf, you can raise your stock spring hanger. Just drill the rivits and move it up to gain 1 1/2" of drop. All it costs is labor and a few grade 8 bolts.

[Lost 40]

N2TRUX, Thanks for the advice. We have had this warm spell in Michigan of 80+ degree weather, so I have been driving the truck every day. Its been awesome. I will probably keep enjoying it, as is, until I save the money. Thanks again for the advice.

I've got other work to do....Need to find the time to install new dash, bucket seats, window seals, paint door panels, install new door and dash inserts, new carpet, etc.....That should keep me busy for a while.

I love your paint scheme. Been thinking about painting mine black, and using the stock color of Nevada Gold as accent pin striping. I also bought a 2" rise cowl induction hood, and thought I could paint the sides of the cowl the Nevada Gold as well. Just enough gold color to contrast with the black. I noticed your chrome body side molding has gold accent instead of black. Is that custom, because I have not seen that available in LMC or Brothers.....

[N2TRUX]

Thanks for the kind words. The yellow/gold stripe inside my trim is stock for 77 only. You won't find any replacement trim with that color on it.

[Pop's C-10]

Conundrum used K5 springs & said they gave him a 2in drop..

[made2drag]

raised front hangers like N2TRUX said

or k5 springs like Pop's C-10 said


raising the front hangers would be a pain, there are 2 rivots really close to the gas tank that would be a booger to knock out. even with my bed off i kept thinking about doing it and just never dove into it. the best way to get rivots out is to make a x on the rivot head then knock it thru or grind the head down and knock it thru. in this case, i could see the right length and size drill bit doing the job. a plazma or torch would be too risky that close to the gas tank, unless you removed it. but if you could pay someone to knock them off and drill holes higher...it would be the easiest/cheapest way while still getting a great ride. i did read somewhere though that the lower the front leaf eye is the better the traction is geometry wise....

[made2drag]

correct me if im wrong guys, but he could probably put a flip kit in it and a raised shackle (for lifting an inch) and if it was too low he could add a factory leaf back in. like N2TRUX pointed out, there's one missing. might have to trim the bumpstop.

like he mentioned, he already has the flip kit laying in his garage.

$500+ for monoleafs seems like alot of cash for a little difference in hieght

[made2drag]

if a flip is considered to be a 5 inch drop....having the 1 inch raised shackle would make it 4 inches total

[esbstuff]

Just an FYI this IS a factory spring pack, untouched.

I think that I would just use a long rear shackle than do anything else, other than go to the airbags. I think you are asking for drivablilty problems with less springs than those super light factory ones... I had a friend use longer shackles on his trk years ago with no problems. The only catch was he had to trim the bed brace to make it work.

Originally Posted by Lost 40

I think I still have plenty of room to drop. See the pic below. I have 4.5 inches to the top of the bumpstop, and if I remove the bumpstop bracket, and put a shaved down version directly on the frame, I can gain a little more...

I am thinking of a monoleaf with 2" of drop to at least get rid of the rake I have and level it out. The Caltrac system looks promising since the split monoleaf and caltracs are designed to work together. I already have Belltech spindles on the front with a front swaybar. Add a rear swaybar as well, along with new shocks all the way around, and the Caltrac bars and monoleaf, I should be good to go!

Thanks for all the feedback guys. Now I just have to save some money for the purchase of these goods. Thats gonna go over like a fart in church with my wife.

[Lost 40]

Originally Posted by esbstuff

Just an FYI this IS a factory spring pack, untouched.

I think that I would just use a long rear shackle than do anything else, other than go to the airbags. I think you are asking for drivablilty problems with less springs than those super light factory ones... I had a friend use longer shackles on his trk years ago with no problems. The only catch was he had to trim the bed brace to make it work.

Thanks. That's actually the setup I have now. I want to go a little lower.
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