427 tall deck swap , opinions , ideas , tips and tricks please

[towrecker]

what my plan consists of is swap my 383 stroker out for this 60k 427 tall deck I found at my favorite price , it runs , and runs very well might I add , well some of you know my truck some don't , if you don't go over to youtube , and it is all over my 2 channels "towrecker" & "beltstowing" but it is a 63 c30 wrecker , I know this engine should fit without a lot of issues , I also know my trans will bolt up , a 350 flywheel will fit it , and to use a 454 passenger car water pump , and exhaust manifolds , I also know I need a normal oil pan for it too (ordered) it has what I think is somewhere between a 8-10 qt pan (just guessing here) someone will see it in my video about it , and correct me basically what I really need to know are some things someone that has done this as ran into , from what I can tell the small block motor mounts even will fit this monster , but do I have to move the frame mounts around any for it to fit (I know I can measure and see ) I am worried about up and down in the chassis , not front to back on them , I have never really seen on of these trucks with a big block that were not heavily modified , and mine is not frame & front end is 100% as chevy built it 50 years ago I don't really like that either , but don't want to change it ...the small indention in the fire wall has me a bit worried being this is a tall deck engine , that will push the heads up and further out in relation to say a 396-454 car or pickup engine , I also plan to run it completely stock , the intake and all , I want low end power to get my 10,000 lb truck moving , and up to speed , because lets face it at speed any engine can keep whats moving , moving , it's the getting there that is hard , and my 383 stroker (oh it sounds really good ) but you have to get the RPM's up to the 4k + range to get any power out of it , and that along with the gearing of the sm420 is not a combo that works period ...if you know my truck from youtube , there will be a 383 to leave my hill btw so keep watching ...Thanks to anyone that has done this swap before , or has any info to offer me in my adventure !!! but please don't tell me it is a boat anchor it would be in a c10 , but in my application this boat anchor will run pull & work very well... loaded my truck is between 14,000 and 18,000 lbs , I really need a truck torque engine you know !

1963 c30 with a holmes 500 type 2 bed (med duty truck sling and all built in )

Thanks for any help !!
drinkin' gas , and crushing fords everyday

Jason Belt
Belts wrecker service
Jonesborough Tn

[A.T. RockDriller]

Jason...
That's the very best application for your 427. You're sure on the right track, and the SM420 gearing will respond nicely....and you'll sure be pleased that you did it.

I think the only thing you should reconsider is your choice of flywheels.
The engine will have quite a bit of developed torque, but I think you will give up some overall torque with that lighter flywheel.

I think if you look around, you should be able to find the heavy Truck flywheel. Unless the flywheel you have came out of a medium duty application....in which case....I'll quit talkin so much...

Keep us informed on yer progress.

[100%Chevy]

Does your 427 td have the governor under the carb?
If it does,then it has no vacuum advance either.
I ask because the gov makes the engine higher under the hood.
The heads will be .4" farther out on the sides.
Don't know what exhausts you have but I changed mine to the regular big block iron.The td exhausts wouldn't work with side mounts in my car(67 Chevelle)
Then,what are you going to do with that big by-pass hole in the front of the intake if you use the regular big block water pump?
Mine also had a huge air pump mounted on the passenger side head/intake for air brakes.Used engine oil for the pump!
Just some thoughts.
Mike./

[towrecker]

Originally Posted by A.T. RockDriller

Jason...
That's the very best application for your 427. You're sure on the right track, and the SM420 gearing will respond nicely....and you'll sure be pleased that you did it.

I think the only thing you should reconsider is your choice of flywheels.
The engine will have quite a bit of developed torque, but I think you will give up some overall torque with that lighter flywheel.

I think if you look around, you should be able to find the heavy Truck flywheel. Unless the flywheel you have came out of a medium duty application....in which case....I'll quit talkin so much...

Keep us informed on yer progress.

I have the flywheel from the med duty truck , but it had the spicer trans with the bell housing adapter plate , it is actually larger than my bell housing ...but will that bell housing bolt to my trans ...I do wander ... I have the bell housing , but not the trans , I also have the clutch and pressure plate , but I didn't tote the throw out bearing back home , but thats something to install new anyways

[towrecker]

Originally Posted by 100%Chevy

Does your 427 td have the governor under the carb?
If it does,then it has no vacuum advance either.
I ask because the gov makes the engine higher under the hood.
The heads will be .4" farther out on the sides.
Don't know what exhausts you have but I changed mine to the regular big block iron.The td exhausts wouldn't work with side mounts in my car(67 Chevelle)
Then,what are you going to do with that big by-pass hole in the front of the intake if you use the regular big block water pump?
Mine also had a huge air pump mounted on the passenger side head/intake for air brakes.Used engine oil for the pump!
Just some thoughts.
Mike./

Governor carb is gone , I have just a holley carb without it on there now , as for the manifolds I scored a set from a 90 model 1 ton , they are the steel header type , they look like they should fit good ...I hope as for the water pump bypass a freeze plug to block it off , I will use the port behind the water neck to do it , mine did not have the air compressor , but did have some odd mount on the pass side at the top , that looks like my sanden A/C compressor will bolt to , or with little modification bolt to I also thought of making a couple adapters from exhaust tubing to step down the radiator hoses so I can connect to my radiator , and just running that truck water pump , and an electric fan , I actually already have a large electric fan on the truck that I use in the summer while idling to keep it cool , could just use it full time ...maybe???...what oil pan did you use ? as for the vac advance , I always kill them anyways , I was a drag racer , we don't like them

[awbrown]

As far as flywheel , just use the one off any small block that will fit the bell housing .. as long as it is internal balance , the late model tube manifolds make a lot of sense and would be easy to modify if the frame is too narrow.. you will need some type of bypass hose for the water pump ,the heater hoses will work as long as they plumb out of the pump and back in around the thermostat... good luck , and any car pan should work ..

[Captainfab]

You're going to have to trim the top flange of the frame back a little for exhaust manifold/header clearance.

[towrecker]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

You're going to have to trim the top flange of the frame back a little for exhaust manifold/header clearance.

I think a torch to heat the steel tube manifolds and a hammer would be a better idea would it not ? I hate the idea of weakening the frame any , as this is a still used tow truck , I bent my old 77 c30 in the middle , never could get that truck right again ...

[awbrown]

I will have to see if I can find some pics of my 77 3/4 ton 4x4 ,I had a wrecker setup in it for years and more than one time I had the front wheels 3 ft off the ground ,frame never broke but it sure should have....

[Captainfab]

The amount that needs trimmed is minimal and will not weaken the frame in any way if done correctly. What I'm talking about is simply trimming the top flange of the frame so that it is the same as a '68-'87 truck frame. Those are the years that the big blocks were available in this style of frame.

Originally Posted by towrecker

I think a torch to heat the steel tube manifolds and a hammer would be a better idea would it not ? I hate the idea of weakening the frame any , as this is a still used tow truck , I bent my old 77 c30 in the middle , never could get that truck right again ...

[towrecker]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The amount that needs trimmed is minimal and will not weaken the frame in any way if done correctly. What I'm talking about is simply trimming the top flange of the frame so that it is the same as a '68-'87 truck frame. Those are the years that the big blocks were available in this style of frame.

I see what you are saying now , I was thinking something different , I was thinking you were saying to cut a notch in the frame to use the med duty truck manifolds , and I think you would to actually use them , if motor mounts would even fit with them , the spot in the frame you are talking about is at the back of the engine isn't it ? and it's like a quarter of an inch or something I think right ? I have a 69 gmc with a 396 in it to compare to if I need to , do you recall how much it is different off hand , I myself had forgot about that till now , I remember someone either talking about that , or read it somewhere now that you bring it up ...sorry for not thinking before I replied to your comment !!

[Captainfab]

The amount to cut isn't a straight even cut, it varies a little. In the past I have just used a '68-'87 frame to take measurements from, and trim the early frame to replicate the '68-'87 frame. Then you can use any truck specific exhaust manifolds or headers.

Originally Posted by towrecker

I see what you are saying now , I was thinking something different , I was thinking you were saying to cut a notch in the frame to use the med duty truck manifolds , and I think you would to actually use them , if motor mounts would even fit with them , the spot in the frame you are talking about is at the back of the engine isn't it ? and it's like a quarter of an inch or something I think right ? I have a 69 gmc with a 396 in it to compare to if I need to , do you recall how much it is different off hand , I myself had forgot about that till now , I remember someone either talking about that , or read it somewhere now that you bring it up ...sorry for not thinking before I replied to your comment !!

[towrecker]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The amount to cut isn't a straight even cut, it varies a little. In the past I have just used a '68-'87 frame to take measurements from, and trim the early frame to replicate the '68-'87 frame. Then you can use any truck specific exhaust manifolds or headers.

I have a set of steel factory manifolds from a 90 model , I may have already said this , if so sorry , so my best bet would be to get the engine in the truck , then trim the frame to get the exhaust to fit in , using my 69 as reference , and take as little as possible , even less than the later frame , if it will clear ...is that the approach you would recommend , or would you just make the frame match the later frame , and say the heck with it

[1972RedNeck]

You can't use the back crankshaft pulley with the stock 454 short water pump.

[Captainfab]

I would just trim the frame to match your '69 frame, before you get the engine in place. It's a whole lot easier without the engine in place.