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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: NW, Colorado
Posts: 285
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Yes another brake bleeding question....
So here is where I am at... I have replaced the rotors, and drums, new pads front and rear. I also upgraded with a new master cylinder and booster from a 1 ton. I have the switched as the cylinder as per the swap write up. In the process I have pulled all bleeders, cleaned and or replaced with new and cleaned the bleed holes in the calipers. etc.
Here is where I am now... I have bleed the Master cylinder and am getting ready to start on the wheels. My concern it that my proportioning valve is right up next to my MC. when I swapped out/cleaned all my bleeders, I am sure I ran the fluid down. How should I go about bleeding the system now? Should I hook up the lines from the master to the proportioning valve then let the rear gravity feed. then open the front and let it gravity feed. Or can I just hook it all up and use the wife to go 1/2 down, open to floor hold etc.... I am just not sure as my lines are close to empty.
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Confidence is the feeling we have before we fully comprehend the situation |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Gold Bar, WA
Posts: 1,216
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Re: Yes another brake bleeding question....
You could try gravity bleeding but it might take a while. I had to do something a little different a while back that worked pretty good. I had a bad wheel cylinder that I took too long to get around to replacing it and had a heck of a time getting my back brakes bled out. What I did was have my g/f tell me when she was pushing on the brake pedal, I would crack the bleeder screw and when the pedal hit the floor she would tell me and I would close the bleeder. We did this quite a few times and got everything bled out nicely.
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My Projects: 1960 GMC 1/2ton with 305 V6 (daily driver) 1963 Chevy 1/2ton 2wd...converting to 4x4 1967 Suburban 1/2ton 2wd My Girlfriends Projects 1985 Chevy Suburban 3/4ton 4x4 with 6.2L diesel, 4" lift, converted to TH-400, Warn Premium manual hubs, & Wildcat 315/75/R16 tires. (daily driver) 1978 Camaro Type LT with a Marine 350 & vortec heads, Rochester Carb, & roller cam 1978 Camaro Z28 |
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#3 |
CAN'T FIX NOTHIN
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SOUTHRUST VIRGINIA !!!
Posts: 2,112
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Re: Yes another brake bleeding question....
drain all the fluid , start with one wheel put fluid in a squirt oil gun with a hose hooked to the bleeder fill the gun as needed dont let it run out , pump left front a while then go to right front and pump till it fills the master cylinder , repeat for rear ,,,,,,,,, work's perfect
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1967 C10 Shortbed Fleetside Small back glass 6 cyl 3spd on the tree 3.08 gears underdash AC |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Hamilton, AL
Posts: 189
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Re: Yes another brake bleeding question....
Just done a quick search on homemade bleeder an got this. Mine looks a little pretty-er but this will work. I usually run one line back into the master and just bleed, say the back 1st by itself and then bleed the front. Just make sure you keep the bleeder cup and the master full.
http://www.diymyhonda.com/integra/brake-bleeding/ |
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#5 |
20' Daredevil (Ret)
![]() Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jefferson State
Posts: 13,647
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Re: Yes another brake bleeding question....
If you are purging the entire system (or have drained it) you'll do a lot of pedal pumping to fill the entire system again.
It's much easier & faster with a one man brake bleeder hose. Only a few bucks, any parts store should have them. There's a one-way check valve to prevent air from entering between pumps. http://www.levineautoparts.com/1manbleeder.html
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- Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay |
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