160* thermostat

[CEE1NG_RED]

OK...found out that the truck I bought did not come with a thermostat so I went to NAPA and was given a 160* thermostat. Is this the right spec for my '67? It has a '78 350 motor and no heater/ac system (has been deleted). I hear 180* is good, but can a 160* be used and still have good efficiency with my truck?

Also, what the heck is the difference aside price and degrees? Premium, regular, economy...LOL, what is good for my truck, ahah!!
http://napaonline.com/Catalog/Result...0014%2b2014024

[DesertCat]

I prefer a 185* thermostat, used 'em for decades. Our engines were designed to run around 200* IIRC.

That said, you can use that one but you may not reach full operating temp. That's okay just not preferred.

[John Pasinski]

I too have a 160* in my 402 BB. I was told the cooler the better. Engines burn fuel more efficiently the cooler they operate. I thought part of the reason was the physics of gasoline's volumn changing as temperature changed. Similar to the volumn of gas dispensed at the gas station with temperature change.
Have I too been misinformed? When I got my truck, I put in a 195 thermostat, but since changed to 160. Should I go back to 185?

[Zoomin]

The biggest advantage to a 195 thermostat is your heater will work better in the winter.

[ole dollor]

the cooler a motor runs the more gas it will use, and the less power it will produce..the intake needs to be hot to vaporize the fuel going to the pistons, a 180 would be better than a 160....but a 190 or 195 would be better than that...colder air going into the intake is good but once it goes into the intake it need to vaporize for a better burn. more power, more mileage..you may also need to change the rad. cap to like a 17 lb. cap...and add an over flow tank...i have always done this with good results....

[RustyBucket]

Originally Posted by ole dollor

the cooler a motor runs the more gas it will use, and the less power it will produce..the intake needs to be hot to vaporize the fuel going to the pistons, a 180 would be better than a 160....but a 190 or 195 would be better than that...colder air going into the intake is good but once it goes into the intake it need to vaporize for a better burn. more power, more mileage..you may also need to change the rad. cap to like a 17 lb. cap...and add an over flow tank...i have always done this with good results....

Not to be a disagreeabe guy.. BUT, engines LOVE cold intake air... Cowl hoods on '70 Chevelles, Ram Air GTO's, Outside Air Induction(Olds 442), icing manifolds at the drag strip. NASCAR air intakes are at the base of their windshields.. high pressure/cooler air. All of my ol' hot rod cars, motorcycles, boats, have all run better at night 'specially if they can get a cold snort of dense night air. Engines need to run hot enough to cook the moisture and condensation out of the oil in the crank case but they like cool intake air. I think your 160 thermostat will be fine, it doesn't open 'til it gets to 160*.

[cdowns]

i have always read that at 180-190 the enging clearances are at spec and with a no thermo or lothermo your runnig things with closer non optimum tolarances

i have mostly used in the 190 range for my old vehicles// and when i lived up north i liked having a hot heater

[John Pasinski]

This is interesting........no real consensus that I can see. Anyone else?

[72 K20]

When I lived in Las Vegas I had a 69 C10 with a 454 in it. The only way I could keep it cool was to run a 205 thermostat. It worked for me there and since I've moved back to Iowa I still run 205 stats,, heater will run you out in the winter. I'd rather have to open a window or turn the heat down than not have heat.

I have never run anything less than a 190 stat in chevy v8's.

[ole dollor]

rustybucket : please go back and read my post. i think you missed something about cold air.....and the g t o was not a working scoop....it was for looks only.

its ok to disagree , i love a good conversation ......but we said yes to the same thing....LOL

[CEE1NG_RED]

Took off the 160* and swapped it for an even trade for a
180*. Thanks everyone!!
Posted via Mobile Device

[c1069]

here is a lot of info http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...s/viewall.html

[ole dollor]

c1069 : thats a good take on this thread....good reading...thanks for the info...

[RustyBucket]

Originally Posted by c1069

here is a lot of info http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...s/viewall.html

I AGREE.. good read, good info. All that considered I'm still "PUCKERED" when the temp. gage in my Blazer gets up around 200.... I've had a few steaming antifreeze "VOLCANOES" with old cars and trucks. Maybe I'll swap out my 160 for a 180 thermostat-- I'm still trying to learn stuff. I know it surely does pull stronger when the ambient temp. is 55 instead of 95.
I disagree that RAM AIR 11, 111 & 1V GTO's hood scoops were non-functional.

[Indyuke]

Here is really good article about how the cooling system works... with a good blurb on the concept of thermostats.

http://www.woodyg.com/fairlane/finfo...ngsystem4.html

[So.Cal.Super]

When I was talking to my engine builder He recommended I stay with the 160 I was already running. weather it's a 160,180,195 I like the robert shaw high flow stats myself. they are less restrictive and I run a high flow water pump.


There are a few benefits to living in southern CA.. Whats this winter everyone keeps talking about

On another note the new yukon temp runs at 210 and thats normal (better emissions, fuel efficiency, etc. I assume) I cringe when I see it though.

[GASoline71]

My '06 Silverado K2500 6.0L runs right below the 210 mark on the Temp gauge. Once it heats up to that temp... it never moves. Whether I'm driving around town or haulin' my travel trailer... it has never heated up over that mark. I'm sure the stock T-stat is either a 195 or a 200...

I've always used the 180's in my first gen SBC's. I've never experienced any over heating issues in all the years I've been using them.

Gary

[rsavage]

I use a 160 stat in the AC trucks and a 180 in the non AC Burb.