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Old 07-28-2011, 01:00 PM   #26
Rochlow
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Re: Sectioned front crossmember?

and by narrow the crossmember in this manner, wouldn't you have to pinch the front frame rails and radiator mounts?
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:35 PM   #27
Captkaos
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Re: Sectioned front crossmember?

Here is the how-to that I put together on doing these when I was building and selling them on the board here about 10 years ago. I have a much simpler way to doing this now with just 2 different size pieces of tape. If I remember, I will try and replace all the old photos with the new ones. This has been copied MANY times and if you do it this way all your factory mounts work.

http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/chopcross.html



XXL had one of these under his and was one of the first ones I sold on the board. Use to be a huge thread on his install...
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Old 10-28-2011, 01:14 AM   #28
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Re: Sectioned front crossmember?

heres a picture of how my crossmember was done. took two inches out of the middle, the huge holes you see where plated, then the whole crossmember was raised 3 inches and welded to the inside of the frame. the upper control arm mounts where then plated to the frame and the frame was boxed. the point of removing the 2 inches from the middle is to suck the tires into the truck to help with turning.

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Old 08-19-2012, 12:01 PM   #29
yossarian19
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Re: Sectioned front crossmember?

I asked over at the Task Force truck board but seems most guys go with a car based front section.
When you section (narrow) the front cross member on these C10 suspensions, what else needs modifying? I am wanting to wind up with a 62" track width (ideally, 60") and put it under my '57.
I've considered that I may need to section the center steering link, though I'd rather not...
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:58 AM   #30
jayman68
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Re: Sectioned front crossmember?

Quote:
Originally Posted by LUKIN-FOU View Post
1] Here are some pictures of a cross member that I did a couple of years ago. I took 2.25 inches out of the middle. I did it on one of my trucks I never finished it because it’s mine. I had to get to work on a paying job.

I made sure it was level. This way when I welded some legs on it when I put it back together it was true and square.

All I did was find the center mark it with 2” tape and make some lines. I went with 2 inches because I didn’t need a bunch of clearance.
What is the purpose shortening it that way? That may help tuck the wheels better, but you would also need to move the frame rails in an inch on each side. It looks like you did a good job. This thread is talking about raising the c/m up to get the frame closer to the ground.

Edit: Sorry I didn't see page 2
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