Welding Patch Panels

[BrianDamage]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Before I started my truck I had never done any body welding except for spot welding in minor stuff. When I found it was going to cost about $250 per panel to get them fitted, welded and rough ground I decided to try myself. Worst case was I was out the cost of the panel and time. I also got a bad fender and started practicing, cutting out pieces and welding them back in. Also drilled a lot of holes of different sizes and filled them.

On your cab the most important part is going to be making sure the cab is still square and doors are close before your start. Then weld in diagonal cross bracing to keep the bottom of the front jambs where they need to be.

Look thru the build threads here, there are a number of guys that have done what you are doing with detailed information. Once you get the hang of it, then all kinds of ideas start coming since you aren't limited to just what you can bolt or screw on. Good luck!

What do you recommend making the braces out of?
Posted via Mobile Device

[rgunlock]

Do you guys paint the backside of your patches to keep rust from starting, particularly if you won't be able to reach them from behind after they are installed? What do you use that doesn't burn when you weld the patch in?

[jimig1]

you can use a weld thru primer but some of it is going to burn off there is not much you can do. I have used this http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...ay-nozzle.html in a few places that I could not get in to paint

[Trekster]

Buy a name brand 220V mig and you will never regret it.

[crossfire84]

this is what i started with, my first body panel attempt, take your time. i just finished the outer skin today, looks good for a novice.

[rgunlock]

Originally Posted by jimig1

you can use a weld thru primer but some of it is going to burn off there is not much you can do. I have used this http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...ay-nozzle.html in a few places that I could not get in to paint

Thanks jimig1! I'll give the weld thru primer a try.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Not trying to hijack but my '55.2 has some rust-through along the gutters from failed sealant. Fortunately, no rust through on the cab "eyebrow" that I've found yet.

I've scraped away all the old sealant using a heat gun, wire wheeled it to shiny metal, but I know if I am seeing 1/8" rust-through "slots", its probably more severe than that. I don't have the skills to pull the entire roof off but I don't want to do a schitty coverup either.

I was thinking of grinding the rust-through areas back to solid metal as best I can judge it without SEEING the back side. Then make small sheet metal strips for the areas to be repaired, weld them in, grind smooth, and prime.

THEN, use the Eastwood frame protection stuff cited in post #28 above ALL around the inside of the roof using the limited access that a removed headliner give you.

Does this sound too Mickey Mouse? How have you (Bam, etc) dealt with this?

[jimig1]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Not trying to hijack but my '55.2 has some rust-through along the gutters from failed sealant. Fortunately, no rust through on the cab "eyebrow" that I've found yet.

I've scraped away all the old sealant using a heat gun, wire wheeled it to shiny metal, but I know if I am seeing 1/8" rust-through "slots", its probably more severe than that. I don't have the skills to pull the entire roof off but I don't want to do a schitty coverup either.

I was thinking of grinding the rust-through areas back to solid metal as best I can judge it without SEEING the back side. Then make small sheet metal strips for the areas to be repaired, weld them in, grind smooth, and prime.

THEN, use the Eastwood frame protection stuff cited in post #28 above ALL around the inside of the roof using the limited access that a removed headliner give you.

Does this sound too Mickey Mouse? How have you (Bam, etc) dealt with this?

You don't want to sandwich 2 pieces together your asking for problems if you do that. You'll want to cut out the bad and replace you can do small sections. I used that Eastwood stuff in the inside of the roof and in the cowl it covers pretty good. I had no rust in the roof but the sealant let water leak in the cab an rusted a big hole on the inside that I had to fix and wanted something to coat what I could not see.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by jimig1

You don't want to sandwich 2 pieces together. You're asking for problems if you do that. You'll want to cut out the bad and replace. You can do small sections.

?? I don't THINK what I'm suggesting will result in "sandwiching 2 pieces together." I agree putting good metal against rusted metal is a no-no.

But maybe I misunderstand what I'm going to find. Where I'm talking about is RIGHT where the curve of the roof meets the gutter on the outside of the truck - THAT'S where its rusted through. I have been assuming when I grind there I'll be grinding into the area behind where your "After" photo shows. The dead space between the inner roof line and the actual exterior roof metal. Does that make sense at all?

I've also thought about investing in one of THESE to get a look at what's happening in there:

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital...era-67979.html

What do you think, have I got it all wrong?

[jimig1]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

?? I don't THINK what I'm suggesting will result in "sandwiching 2 pieces together." I agree putting good metal against rusted metal is a no-no.

But maybe I misunderstand what I'm going to find. Where I'm talking about is RIGHT where the curve of the roof meets the gutter on the outside of the truck - THAT'S where its rusted through. I have been assuming when I grind there I'll be grinding into the area behind where your "After" photo shows. The dead space between the inner roof line and the actual exterior roof metal. Does that make sense at all?

I've also thought about investing in one of THESE to get a look at what's happening in there:

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital...era-67979.html

What do you think, have I got it all wrong?

Ok I thought you meant you were just going to grind the rust off then sandwich it together. This is what it looks like in there if you were wondering . You can see where the seam is. But what you are saying

I was thinking of grinding the rust-through areas back to solid metal as best I can judge it without SEEING the back side. Then make small sheet metal strips for the areas to be repaired, weld them in, grind smooth, and prime.

will work if you don't get back to good metal you end up burning through and you may have to expand you patch a little

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks so much for posting that. I think where mine is rusted through is right where that horizontal line is in your photo above the jagged metal.

Would you advise one or two cans of that Eastwood stuff to be enough for all around the perimeter of the cab roof line?

Last, an old friend filled the seams inside the cab where the A and B pillars meet the roof/ceiling material. It looked so much better and more finished but I always thought relying on Bondo not to crack there long term was a bad idea. I plan on filling mine with mig and grinding smooth. Any reason you can think of NOT to do this?

Sorry for so many questions.

[jimig1]

with the Eastwood stuff I was able to do around the whole cab and down the cowl with about a can and a half. it take a little bit to get use to spraying it. I bought 2 cans when it was on sale i figured if i had 2 i would not have to buy another can an pay for shipping again.

For the seams in the cab a know that i have seen some say that they help when the frame flexes so if you weld them up then you need to box the frame to stop the flex in there. I can see that but I'm not an engineer so I don't know for sure. But If you just fill it with bondo it will crack and look terrible down the road.

[Dan in Pasadena]

So will you be welding your seams, or not?

The way I figure it is they're ALREADY welded (though probably spot welded) so they're already pretty inflexible.

I will weld mine, but my truck will be a weekend driver. I want to, so I'm going to.

Anyone else have experience on welding up those seams?

[jimig1]

I'm not welding them.

[el_bole]

Gentlemen,

Thanks for all the great information on this thread...I finally drop some coin on 220v Hobart welder(Model 187). After much searching and researching I decided this machine is going to help me build my baby....

Thanks again for all the great input and comments.

PS Glad I didnt settle for 120

[55dude]

in a pinch a 110v welder will weld 3/16" if you preheat with some mapp gas and go REAL slow!

[el_bole]

Originally Posted by 55dude

in a pinch a 110v welder will weld 3/16" if you preheat with some mapp gas and go REAL slow!

Yes I have heard/read that....I paid about 120V price for my Hobart so Im happy all around. Now to practice practice practice and get my skill level up......

Have a good one

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by el_bole

Yes I have heard/read that....I paid about 120V price for my Hobart so Im happy all around. Now to practice practice practice and get my skill level up......

Have a good one

You've don the right thing buddy. I have the same Hobart and its a very nice machine. Happy welding buddy.

[el_bole]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

You've don the right thing buddy. I have the same Hobart and its a very nice machine. Happy welding buddy.

Kabwe,

Thanks for the reassurance that I made a good choice. I originally was gonna go Blue but man they just cost too much or are junk with in my price range. For my needs this machine is perfect, prolly more power than I'll ever need.

My thinking is better to have something that can do some patch work with or build a frame up if need be....Have a great one Kabwe

[mknittle]

i think Hobart is now owened by miller. anyway that is what a miller rep told me.

[el_bole]

Originally Posted by mknittle

i think Hobart is now owened by miller. anyway that is what a miller rep told me.

That was definetley a factor in choosing Hobart. From what ive read Hobarts are built by big blue aka miller but certain parts on units are not the same as a reg miller.....
Posted via Mobile Device

[Kabwe]

Well if its any consolation to you I had my Hobart for around 7 years and I have never had an issue with it and I use mine as a work horse. Now I have a miller tig but my Hobart is still my work horse, so if you don't like it you can drop it by my house I always like new shiny tools.lol

[1959Chev]

I got a Clarke 180 for Christmas last year. I am on my second spool of wire and it does a great job. I think it is the same as the Eastwood from what I've read. I had no prior welding experience and just welded a camaro subframe to the front of my truck a couple months back. Don't be afraid it's just metal. Worst case you have to cut it and reweld it. Easy Peasy. lol

[el_bole]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

Well if its any consolation to you I had my Hobart for around 7 years and I have never had an issue with it and I use mine as a work horse. Now I have a miller tig but my Hobart is still my work horse, so if you don't like it you can drop it by my house I always like new shiny tools.lol

Kabwe,

Ha Ha Ha.....Sure I'll drop off Hobart at your place and a case of Beer.....In Exchange for your 55' truckl

Take it easy