Vent Window Seal Help!!!

[LDO]

I just replaced the entire vent window assembly on my 66 and to say I'm disappointed would be an understatement.

Although the installation went smoothly, there is quite the gap between the assembly seal and the door skin edge.

The ones I removed weren't much better.

Does someone sell the seals that fit better and do a better job of filling in the gap?

[Alan's Classic]

It's an aftermarket assy that you installed? I'm pretty sure that's what you meant. I haven't heard any feedback on those.

[LDO]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

It's an aftermarket assy that you installed? I'm pretty sure that's what you meant. I haven't heard any feedback on those.

Alan, yes. I purchased the entire vent window assembly from classic parts and there is a pretty good sized gap between the seal and the door skin.

Is there a thicker seal that can be installed?

My old assemblies were shot and their fit wasnt much better.
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[61K10]

need a picture----

[LDO]

Originally Posted by 61K10

need a picture----

Driver side gap. Didnt bother replacing pass. side till i figure out what to do...
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[ChuckW]

That gap is normal.... Sadly. I've looked at a half dozen trucks and the gap is always there. New seal or old.

[LDO]

That is rediculous and totally innefective. My 57 has a better seal than that.
I cant believe nobody has come up with a solution for this.

Well at least i know i didnt screw anything ul or get substandard parts..

Gotta be something i can do about this...
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[luvbowties]

Driver side gap. Didnt bother replacing pass. side till i figure out what to do...
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Posted via Mobile Device[/QUOTE]

LDO, at their cost, we should expect near perfection! Will that vent now swivel open and shut, relatively, like one should? Did a new channel come with the assembly? or separate? and from the same source?
sam

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by LDO

Driver side gap. Didnt bother replacing pass. side till i figure out what to do...
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LDO, the pic is not quite clear: is that gap an up-and-down issue(worse) going front to back, or a left-and-right issue(not as bad) going front to back?
sam

[LDO]

Sam, a new channel came with the assemblies already installed.

The gap pictured is the horizontal line going from where the vent window curves to the division post. There is a small gap going up along the door edge but not as bad. I can actually look down and see the spring assembly.

Sorry for the bad pic angle but it was the only way to photograph the gap.

The assembly does open and close properly though.

I am going to try adjusting the mohnt points to see if i cant close that gap a little.
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[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by LDO

Sam, a new channel came with the assemblies already installed.

The gap pictured is the horizontal line going from where the vent window curves to the division post. There is a small gap going up along the door edge but not as bad. I can actually look down and see the spring assembly.

Sorry for the bad pic angle but it was the only way to photograph the gap.

The assembly does open and close properly though.

I am going to try adjusting the mohnt points to see if i cant close that gap a little.
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I was thinking a shim between the vent window assembly lower mounting point and the inner door panel... Will have to keep this in mind when I get to the point of re-installing mine.

[BR3W CITY]

When I rebuilt mine, I noticed that the window channel itself seemed a little wider than it should. This was fine for putting the sweepers in, but made the gap a little bigger than I'd like. In the first pic you can see the channel with no sweepers, there is a tiny little "rip" in the metal on the underside. I put the vent windows and sweepers in, then had my brother apply light pressure from the outside, flexing the gap in, and letting me put a small weld on the underside of the channel, tightening the gap up.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by LDO

Sam, a new channel came with the assemblies already installed.

The gap pictured is the horizontal line going from where the vent window curves to the division post. There is a small gap going up along the door edge but not as bad. I can actually look down and see the spring assembly.

Sorry for the bad pic angle but it was the only way to photograph the gap.

The assembly does open and close properly though.

I am going to try adjusting the mohnt points to see if i cant close that gap a little.
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Thx for reply. I'm really thick today: so it would help if somehow magically the bottom of the division bar were to move MOSTLY toward the outside of the door, as Ta2Don suggested, as well as moving straight downward a BIT?

AND: do you have plenty of overlapping seal at the top front corner of the vent-glass area to allow for lowering and/or tilting of the entire assembly?

The reason I'm trying to understand, so precisely, is that "my" bodyman/painter is probably the best, at both skills, I've encountered over the years; and I want to take him these pics AND be able to explain to him those things not so apparent in the pics. His experience and expertise in building rods AND in restoring to original are priceless in my opinion; and if anyone has encountered this issue or has intuition about a solution, he is one man who does, and he will share with us.
Hoping you will beat me to the solution,
sam

**All beyond here contains my ranting--probably enough for all of US in this forum as well as those less fortunate who SHOULD be in here!**

LDO's dilemna makes me SO realize how unknowingly fortunate I was to find an alternative, & avoided buying new, when doing my '66. When my used ones from Ebay arrived & I saw they still needed to be reconditioned, altho' solid--my frames were rusted beyond repair-- I thought I had erred. Yet when I finished re-doing them with a few new parts, a few of my old ones, and some of the used Ebay-ones, the total cost was waaaaay less than even one of what I honestly believe is an unfair price they make us pay.

There must be only one co. producing these things, and that co. recognizes it has a monopoly. I stand to be corrected if wrong; but having been around mfg. and fabbing all my life, I don't see justification for such price or cost. Having no reason to doubt an earlier poster who told us this non-fitment is normal, apparently they don't spend much on quality control! (Also sounds like a p-o had already replaced yours, LDO, with these non-fitting repro's.) This may be an existing market someone in our fine group may wish to enter: make some of these, THAT FIT, and enjoy the lucrative venture.

[LDO]

Well, I got very little sleep last night wondering how I could make these fit better. Not sure if it is my military background (attention to detail/never give up) or what but I knew I could make these fit better.

I agree with previous posts though, the channel seems to be too wide but I wasn't about to attempt to correct that for now.

I thought about spacing out the lower mounts but that only acts as a lever and the window sat funny. So maybe a combination of things will help me get these things right.

What I needed was an outboard pushing force along the horizontal leg of the vent window triangle. I took a section of 4mm winshield washer hose and tucked it in the gap ON THE INSIDE of the door. WOW, that closed up the outside gap considerably.

I ran the hose up the triangle and cut it off well before the pivot rivet. The last inch i sliced with a razor to give it a more tapered end. That worked out pretty good IMO.
Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics but it's all I had. Here's how it looks inside the truck...


and outside.


the picture doesn't do it justice but believe me, there was a significant reduction in the gap as before, i could see the spring assembly almost completely.

anyways, I did end up spacing out the lower mounts about 1/4 of an inch and got everything tightened down. Then, my ocd kicked in and i squirted some windshield sealant by 3m that my buddy let me have and after carefully masking off everything, ran a bead followed by my finger. I used medic gloves as it gives you a nice smooth bead and it doesn't stick to your fingers.

Same process on the passenger side but I did notice that it didn't require as much correcting. I installed tubing but didn't need to space out the lower mounts. Everything tightened down nicely.

Here is the passenger side after the sealant.


I'm sure my truck isn't 'water tight' and I realized these trucks were built back when humans did it and they're not perfect but I feel this is a big improvement over what I had before.
Now I'm happy.

thanks to everyone for the help and advice, hope this helps the next guy.

[Solo2002]

Did you rebuild these or buy the whole assembly cuz I been looking for the seal the window itself slides in to hold it and no luck and have no idea what to use to hold them in and I don't wanna be on the road and woosh my vent glass goes bye bye that would suck lol
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[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by Solo2002

Did you rebuild these or buy the whole assembly cuz I been looking for the seal the window itself slides in to hold it and no luck and have no idea what to use to hold them in and I don't wanna be on the road and woosh my vent glass goes bye bye that would suck lol
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This what you want?...""GST 1936-1972 Glass setting tape, for roll-up and wing vent glass, early windshields, etc. $0.50 Per Ft""

>> http://americanclassic.com/asp/dynca...20vent%20items <<

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by LDO

Well, I got very little sleep last night wondering how I could make these fit better. Not sure if it is my military background (attention to detail/never give up) or what but I knew I could make these fit better.

I agree with previous posts though, the channel seems to be too wide but I wasn't about to attempt to correct that for now.

I thought about spacing out the lower mounts but that only acts as a lever and the window sat funny. So maybe a combination of things will help me get these things right.

What I needed was an outboard pushing force along the horizontal leg of the vent window triangle. I took a section of 4mm winshield washer hose and tucked it in the gap ON THE INSIDE of the door. WOW, that closed up the outside gap considerably.

I ran the hose up the triangle and cut it off well before the pivot rivet. The last inch i sliced with a razor to give it a more tapered end. That worked out pretty good IMO.
Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics but it's all I had. Here's how it looks inside the truck...


and outside.


the picture doesn't do it justice but believe me, there was a significant reduction in the gap as before, i could see the spring assembly almost completely.

anyways, I did end up spacing out the lower mounts about 1/4 of an inch and got everything tightened down. Then, my ocd kicked in and i squirted some windshield sealant by 3m that my buddy let me have and after carefully masking off everything, ran a bead followed by my finger. I used medic gloves as it gives you a nice smooth bead and it doesn't stick to your fingers.

Same process on the passenger side but I did notice that it didn't require as much correcting. I installed tubing but didn't need to space out the lower mounts. Everything tightened down nicely.

Here is the passenger side after the sealant.


I'm sure my truck isn't 'water tight' and I realized these trucks were built back when humans did it and they're not perfect but I feel this is a big improvement over what I had before.
Now I'm happy.

thanks to everyone for the help and advice, hope this helps the next guy.

Glad you got it figured out & repaired--barely noticeable and betcha it won't leak! Keep having fun and doing good work!
sam