Valve adjustment

[slugish]

Ok , Im almost certain my ticking is coming from my valves
When I put engine back together , I adjusted lash . then 1/2 turn (maybe a LITTLE MORE )& I was real careful in the position of the exhaust lifter when adjusting the intake valve so it would be at tdc . Ihad the intake off at that time & could see when the lifter was in the position that would mean I was at tdc.

So I know a lot of you adjust with motor running > How do you keep oil from splattering all over .

Since now I cant see what position the liftres are in , can I tell when Im at tdc by the rocker position .

Also I know about , taking plug out ,turning engine over till feel air push out , but I would feel better getting to zero lash etc. like I did before , but can I do this by looking at rocker position (ie just beginning to rise or just before it goes all the way down .

Sorry for the length of this

Will

[notallthere]

To keep from oil splattering I use an old set of valve covers with the tops cut off. I do not like doing it with the motor running. I am just not good at it this way. When I need to lash the valves I time the cylinder to when both valves are closed. (power stroke) Lash both the exhaust and the intake at the same time. I can usually do this with only one rotation of the engine. Watch the valves to get the proper timing as you crank the motor over.

[dieseldawg142]

to adjust with the motor running, i took an old valve cover & cut a strip out of the middle of it. keeps 95% of the oil in

[INSIDIOUS '86]

I just adjust after the engine is fully warmed and then go quick when its running. I pull out lash till they slap then tighten whee they stop and go one half turn more
Posted via Mobile Device

[LEEVON]

Wait hold the phone, solid or hydraulic lifters?

[slugish]

Originally Posted by LEEVON

Wait hold the phone, solid or hydraulic lifters?

Oh yea, hydraulic , Since I cant see the liftres when they are opening or closing since intake is on now , I just want to know how can I tell if im at tdc on a particular valve so I can adjust to zero lash . If intake is off you can adjust intake valve when the exhaust lifter has just started to rise . So can I do the same thing by hand turning the engine till I see the exhaust rocker just start to move up ?then set lash to zero on intake valve

[slugish]

Originally Posted by notallthere

To keep from oil splattering I use an old set of valve covers with the tops cut off. I do not like doing it with the motor running. I am just not good at it this way. When I need to lash the valves I time the cylinder to when both valves are closed. (power stroke) Lash both the exhaust and the intake at the same time. I can usually do this with only one rotation of the engine. Watch the valves to get the proper timing as you crank the motor over.

this is a dummy here . How do you know when both valves are closed . What are you looking out for when you watch the valves to get proper timing . Are you observing the position the rockers are in

[notallthere]

I start on number one cylinder and watch the intake rocker open then close the moment that it closes it will not move any more with the turning of the crank. This is when you should be on the power stroke of the cylinder. This is when I would lash both of the exhaust and the intake valves. After that follow the firing order of the engine.

[slugish]

Originally Posted by notallthere

I start on number one cylinder and watch the intake rocker open then close the moment that it closes it will not move any more with the turning of the crank. This is when you should be on the power stroke of the cylinder. This is when I would lash both of the exhaust and the intake valves. After that follow the firing order of the engine.

Thx. that was what I was looking for . So when the rocker arm moves down & by turning the engine slightly & it goes down no more , thats when it is closed right .

Also Im now confused because when I 1st adjusted the valves the way I said before with the intake off , the instructions said to turn engine each time for the intake & exhaust . In other words , did not think the power stroke for the intake valve would be the same as the exhaust

by following the firing order , does that mean after I finish #1 cylinder , I go to the next in firing order & watch that intake rocker close like I did on # 1. etc. etc.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Just be on the base circle of the cam lobe for the lash
If you want to do it the better way do a running lash. A few more ponies means more mpg less wear and a happy valve train I've done base lash settings and they are almost always off a bit
Posted via Mobile Device

[notallthere]

Correct

There are a couple different ways that I have seen to adjust the valves but they all end up at the same place. I am just telling the one that I was taught and the one that I am comfortable with.

Correct so the order will be 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 just repeat it for each cylinder like the first one. Just make sure you watch the intake valve of each. I have made the mistake of watching the exhaust accidentally.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

There is a way to do it turning the engine twice I believe. the method that I use when I first build an engine. I will have to look it up in my old as dirt book
Posted via Mobile Device

[mud.man.rj]

Comp cams had a way listed that I "always" use on every small/big block hydl camed Gm. When the exh pushrod "just" starts to move adjust the intake valve... For the exh valve when the intake is "almost" fully closed (so up and back down) then adjust the exh valve. I always load with 5/8's of a turn and have never adjusted a valve once running. I also do all the valves one valve at a time, so basically all the intakes then all the exh, one at a time, so a lot of turning over the engine with a bar on the balancer bolt with the plugs out for a full adjust. Years ago I tried the adjust one half of engine then turn over one full turn and adjust the other half but always had a few loose or too tight. Have built about 80 engines with this method and works every time. Good luck, you will get it.

[Metalshapes]

I have been building chevrolet engines all of my life and this is how I do it, assuming you have the proper harmonic balancer bring the engine up on the compression stroke for cylinder #1 then line line up your timing mark on the tdc indicator on the timing tab, at that point you can adjust intake valves 1,2,5,and 7, and exhaust valves 1,3,4,and 8. when you have that done you rotate the engine 1 revolution until the timing mark is again at tdc. this puts the #6 piston at tdc, you then adjust intake valves 3,4,6, and 8, and exhaust valves 2,5,6, and 7. and you're done and didn't spill any oil.

NOTE: all valves are adjusted to 0 lash plus one turn. Lash is determined by upward movement in pushrod

Hope this helps more than muddy the waters, like I said I have been doing this for a long time, and I never have to go back and re-adjust, works everytime.

[slugish]

Originally Posted by mud.man.rj

Comp cams had a way listed that I "always" use on every small/big block hydl camed Gm. When the exh pushrod "just" starts to move adjust the intake valve... For the exh valve when the intake is "almost" fully closed (so up and back down) then adjust the exh valve. I always load with 5/8's of a turn and have never adjusted a valve once running. I also do all the valves one valve at a time, so basically all the intakes then all the exh, one at a time, so a lot of turning over the engine with a bar on the balancer bolt with the plugs out for a full adjust. Years ago I tried the adjust one half of engine then turn over one full turn and adjust the other half but always had a few loose or too tight. Have built about 80 engines with this method and works every time. Good luck, you will get it.

Yes , This is the way I DID IT ACCORDING TO COMP CAM INSTRUCTION , BUT FOR SOME REASON ONE IS TICKING ON THE DRIVERS SIDE . i GUESS I WILL HAVE TO DO THIS PROCEDURE TO THE DRIVERS SIDE & SEE IF IT STOPS

tHX BY THE WAY THATS THE MOST iVE HEARD OF LOADING 5/8 OF A TURN > WHAT EVER WORKS --RIGHT. MOST SAY 1/2 TURN . tALKED TO AN ENGINE BUILDER WHO DOES MOSTLY RACE ENGINES ,SAYS HE GETS 0 LASH & NO TURN > MYBE HES TALKING ABOUT SOLID LIFTERS?

[mud.man.rj]

All hydl lifters/cams need a preload of at least 1/2 turn, solids would have an initial of o play then a valve lash adjustment of say .018 and up with a feeler gauge, like gapping a spark plug, so no preload at all. Maybe you have a problem with a rocker arm or a lifter collapsing, pull cover and agjust the loose one when you find it runninng at idle. You should have got it when adjusting. Stick a short piece of cardboard down side of rocker arms and inside of cyl head temp, just to idle it and not shoot too much oil around and try and be fast when looking for problem rocker.

[slugish]

Originally Posted by Metalshapes

I have been building chevrolet engines all of my life and this is how I do it, assuming you have the proper harmonic balancer bring the engine up on the compression stroke for cylinder #1 then line line up your timing mark on the tdc indicator on the timing tab, at that point you can adjust intake valves 1,2,5,and 7, and exhaust valves 1,3,4,and 8. when you have that done you rotate the engine 1 revolution until the timing mark is again at tdc. this puts the #6 piston at tdc, you then adjust intake valves 3,4,6, and 8, and exhaust valves 2,5,6, and 7. and you're done and didn't spill any oil.

NOTE: all valves are adjusted to 0 lash plus one turn. Lash is determined by upward movement in pushrod

Hope this helps more than muddy the waters, like I said I have been doing this for a long time, and I never have to go back and re-adjust, works everytime.

So youre saying 1 turn?> most I have heard recommended

[Metalshapes]

I'm sorry I meant half, I was typing faster than I was thinking and left off the /2. sorry for the confusion.

[Metalshapes]

Dang I just read that clearly screwed that up.

[LEEVON]

There's a lot of different methods, they're all easier if you have a bump starter ($3-ish?) at Harbor Freight or just make one. Hook it up, remove the valve covers and unplug the distributor lead. Bump it over and observe the rockers, you will quickly understand what it looks like when both intake and exhaust are on the base circle (closed). Tighten each to zero lash, turn 1/4-1/2, there will be 2 cylinders to do at a time. A few bumps and you're done.

[bk2life]

is this a brand new cam and lifter kit? if so did you break in the cam? or did you start it, let it idle and heard the ticking noise?

is the motor stock? what oil pressure do you run? just pull a valve cover start engine as it idles back off the nut until it makes noise then 1/2 turn tighten, go to next valve. itll take about 1 min total on each side. ideling most of the time you wont get any oil slung anywhere.

[savatreatabvr]

When you don't have an extra set of valve covers just pull the valve cover, pull the plug wires, stuff an old towel on top of the exhaust manifold/header, make sure you cover the length of the head, plug the wires back in and fire it up! If you do it right you'll have very minimal oil spill if any!

[LEEVON]

Guys, hydraulic lifters can be adjusted without the engine running!

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by LEEVON

Guys, hydraulic lifters can be adjusted without the engine running!

Indeed they can. Running lash is always better IMO.
Posted via Mobile Device

[bk2life]

Originally Posted by insidious '86

indeed they can. Running lash is always better imo.

x2