Jon's 69 CST Build

[jonmc56]

I'm going to try to catch up on a story that began last March 2012 when I bought this '69 C10 CST. It was 500 miles away when I found it, and I asked my bro-in-law look at it for me before deciding to buy. He gave it a thumbs up, so I made the deal and put it on a car hauler to have it brought to me.

I've completed some small projects that I'll show next, including reworking some wiring under the hood, and cleaning up the cooling system. Future plans include a 4.5/6" drop from ECE, power disc brakes in the front, rebuilt front suspension, power windows/locks, new wheels/tires, relocating the fuel tank, and maybe someday an LS Swap. It is a daily driver, so I'm trying to balance making improvements while still having it available to drive regularly. It has a 350 sbc and TH400 trans.

The PO had some nice mods done to it, including frenching the taillights and the antenna. He'd already installed Vintage Air (the truck originally came without air). The tailgate handle has been relocated to the inside, and there's a large ghost bowtie on the tailgate that many people don't see at first, but it really pops in the sunlight.

[YBNORML]

Nice ride!!
Posted via Mobile Device

[jonmc56]

Before moving ahead with my progress, I want to back up a bit. The PO was kind enough to send me pictures of the body/paint process from 2007, it is really a nice thing to have some history like this.

[Extended72]

Nice and clean
Posted via Mobile Device

[jonmc56]

One of the first projects was to rework the wiring. One of the main powerup wires from the battery to the bulkhead connector ran across the core support, and there was a brittle and corroded wire in that segment. One thing led to another, and eventually I had all the underhood wiring apart. A lot of the wiring was new, expect for the core support wire that started me on this project. I'm a big fan of the wiring recommendations that Mark makes at MAD Electrical, so I took the opportunity to make some changes. I put a new junction block at each of the four corners of the engine compartment, and ran the alternator output directly to the new junction block next to the bulkhead connector. I also bought a bunch of braided wire loom from Waytek, and wrapped everything. I took the opportunity to draw a new diagram so that I could remember what goes where.

[RexDodge]

Very nice truck. So great that the po got those pics for you. You should come to the gathering on the 26th at Stark Street Pizza. Lots of great folks.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jonmc56]

Originally Posted by YBNORML

Nice ride!!
Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by Extended72

Nice and clean
Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by RexDodge

Very nice truck. So great that the po got those pics for you. You should come to the gathering on the 26th at Stark Street Pizza. Lots of great folks.
Posted via Mobile Device

All, thanks for the kind words.

RexDodge, thanks for the invite to the Stark Street Pizza event. My truck is apart at the moment, won't be back together in time. Where can I follow the schedule for future events?

[jonmc56]

Once the weather warmed up, I was headed home one day and glanced down to see my temp gauge nearly pegged. After getting the truck home, I suspected the water pump and found a nifty tip online for checking the amount of coolant flow (couldn't see flow in the radiator neck). Run your heater hose return through a clear plastic bottle so that you can see how much coolant is moving. Mine was moving great, so I thought maybe the radiator was plugged. I removed the fan, the shroud, the battery and battery tray, etc., and was about to lift out the radiator when... I noticed something funny in between the radiator and the condenser. I pulled it out, and it was a large piece of sheet metal, in front of the radiator! Obviously this was my problem, but as long as I had the radiator loose, I took it to Beaverton Radiator for a flow test. After hearing my story the guy there thought I was nuts for even bringing the radiator in, and it flow tested just fine. I asked the PO what the sheet metal was for, he said it was to get the motor warmed up faster in cold weather. Since I bought the truck in cold weather, the sheet metal was still there.

While everything was apart I noticed a bit of rust below the battery tray on the inner fender, so I cleaned things up, painted the rust with POR15, and painted as much as I could with POR15 Blackcote. My bro-in-law also got me a deal on an Optima blue top, so that when in as well. I really didn't like the look of the stock radiator catch can mounted high on the passenger inner fender, so I replaced it with an aluminum can mounted on the core support.

[RexDodge]

Nice work. I see a serpentine set up has been added too! My truck is apart right now too. I like going to the gatherings to see what everybody is up to. Gotta keep up with hem best I can. I'm aiming for having mine back together by April or May. Hope to see you around!
Posted via Mobile Device

[JRE]

Nice truck hope to see you around. We don't care if you bring a truck or not. it's all about hanging out and meeting/ talking to guys and gal's with a similer interests.

[jonmc56]

This past October my front brake shoes were down to a critical level, so a decision had to be made about fixing the front drum brakes or going with disc brakes. I was also getting anxious to have a power booster, especially for a daily driver. So, I started the process of installing the ECE 4.5/6" drop (drop spindles, drop shocks, drop coils, rear shock relocator kit), plus front disc brakes, master cylinder, power booster, prop valve, all new brake lines, and probably other stuff I'm forgetting. Also made the decision to convert to 5 lug, so ordered Dutchman 5 lug rear axles. While it is apart, also doing all new control arm shafts and bushings, tie rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm, and ball joints. Finally, decided to rebuild the rear drum brakes completely with all new parts and the larger '72 drums and shoes.

First step was to take the truck outside and degrease/pressure wash everything I could see, and take some 'before' pictures of the ride height and stance. Everything is mostly apart, and the cleaning/painting has begun.

[jonmc56]

I should mention that all the decisions about what options to choose and which parts to go with were based on reading threads on this forum, appreciate all the info that has been shared here, the really helpful build threads, and the willingness of people to share their knowledge. Thanks!

[jonmc56]

Finally done painting and powder coating stuff (well, until I find the next parts that need to be painted). That was a lot of painting, would be a huge time saver if this stuff were shipped painted or coated. Only parts missing here are the front calipers, which are still at the powder coating shop.


I painted the master cylinder with POR-15 Metal Mask, because I'm tired of brand new rusty master cylinders. It's supposed to come out looking like bare metal when it's done, and I guess it does mostly. You have to be careful with it because the pigment wants to separate quickly in the container, so lots of stirring is needed. Also have to be careful about applying too much or over-brushing, because it wants to run and streak. Turned out fine I think, this isn't a trailer queen.


Re-assembly begins!

[jkeating1]

Cool truck! Glad I found this thread--I have a bunch of that same stuff on the garage floor for my 6 lug truck. I see Moser axles used a lot, and readily available, but hadn't checked Dutchman. Did you go direct from them, or someone like Summit? I love your detail! Keep up the pictures, can't have too many!

[jonmc56]

Thanks. Regarding the axles, they were an add-on option with the ECE front/rear drop kit that I bought. I was familiar with Dutchman as they used to be here in Portland and had a good reputation for local diff/axle work. Yes, agree on pictures, pictures in other build threads have been really helpful for me. Will try to keep sharing pics as I go.

Originally Posted by jkeating1

Cool truck! Glad I found this thread--I have a bunch of that same stuff on the garage floor for my 6 lug truck. I see Moser axles used a lot, and readily available, but hadn't checked Dutchman. Did you go direct from them, or someone like Summit? I love your detail! Keep up the pictures, can't have too many!

[STOCKISH]

Nice work so far, the truck looks killer.

[jonmc56]

Installing Upper & Lower Control Arm shafts.

I'm going to go a bit overboard with the description and pictures of this process because it is a pain in the neck, I've seen several threads expressing frustration about it on the forum, and I couldn't find a good thread showing how to do it.

This is the first time I've done it, so I don't have any special experience or knowledge. I just know that I didn't get it right on the first try, so once I figured it out, I thought I'd share so maybe it helps someone else.

I used a vice mounted on my workbench, I don't know how you'd do it without this. I put a piece of vinyl around the new shaft to try to protect my paint job.


If you have paint or powder coat in the 'threads' of the flanges in the control arm (like I did), it really helps to get it out. This is difficult enough without having to fight paint in the threads. The threads I'm referring aren't really threads, they are just serrations that I assume are there to keep the bushing nut from backing off.


I greased the bushing nut, shaft threads and the rubber bushing with engine assembly grease. I didn't do this on the first try, and it definitely made a difference. (that and getting all the paint out of the flanges).


Slide the control arm over each end of the shaft. Greasing the rubber bushings makes this easier, because it is a close fit. Be sure in the lower control arm that the dimple in the shaft is oriented the correct way. (toward the front on the truck). It's important to start with the shaft centered in the control arm when you start, same number of threads sticking out on both sides. Also, the dimple in the shaft needs to be up and pointing slightly toward the center of the truck (away from the ball joint).


Thread the bushing nut on each end. Once you barely hook a thread to get it started, turn it a minimal amount more to get one of the flat spots on the hex head facing up. You want both nuts to be started about the same amount. Mark that flat spot somehow (I used a silver sharpie).


Now turn each nut one full turn. Right 1 turn, Left 1 turn, etc. This is what the sharpie mark is for. I made sure to do this in pairs, i.e. if you take a break, you'll know that both are in the same position (i.e. don't tighten one side then take a break, then come back and try to remember which one needs a turn). After tightening a couple of turns, you'll probably need to re-center the shaft in the control arm, as it can move around a bit.

If all is going well, the outer 'threads' on both nuts should come up against the flange at the same point in your process of tightening. Once they do, keep going 1 side at a time.


I had a socket to fit the upper control arm nut, but the lower nut is 42mm, which I don't have. I had to use my 24" crescent wrench.


Again, the dimple in the shaft needs to be up and pointing slightly toward the center of the truck (away from the ball joint). I didn't position it this way initially (photo below show it pointing straight up, which isn't right), and had to rotate the shafts in my vice once I tried to install on the truck.


When things start to get tight, one side will be easy because the control arm will be supported by the vice. The other side will want to rotate the control arm as you try to tighten the nut. Here's how I dealt with that.


If all goes well, you'll get to the point where both nuts are flush up against the control arm flange, with no gap at all. You can see here that the nut began to shave off splinters of metal from the flange, which is another way to tell that you are there.


Torque both sides according the instructions that came with your new parts. My lower shaft kit calls for 100 ft lbs on the nuts. I'm pretty sure I have all of that with my long wrench, but will borrow a socket from somebody so that I can check with a torque wrench. Ready to install!

[jkeating1]

Excellent instructions! I have done it before, but I'm still going to re-read this page when I am ready to do it this time.

[jonmc56]

While waiting for some front end paint to dry, I started taking the rear end apart for installing the drop parts. I measured the current position of the rear end.


I'm replacing the rear coil springs, rear track bar, shocks and relocating the shock mounts (all part of the ECE drop kit). I also want to replace the trailing arm bushings, because they look to be original. This meant taking more stuff apart than the ECE kit would require.


As I was doing this I noticed that the front yoke area of the rear end has been slinging gear lube onto the underside of the bed, and the shocks were coated with gear lube. Looks like my pinion seal is leaking. I pulled the rear end out also so that I can replace it.


I've heard some comments about trailing arms and some concern about whether they hold up as they get old. Besides looking for obvious cracks or rust-through, anyone have advice on how to tell whether mine are in good shape? Thanks.

[67cheby]

nice work ! looks great !

[RexDodge]

Originally Posted by jonmc56

While waiting for some front end paint to dry, I started taking the rear end apart for installing the drop parts. I measured the current position of the rear end.


I'm replacing the rear coil springs, rear track bar, shocks and relocating the shock mounts (all part of the ECE drop kit). I also want to replace the trailing arm bushings, because they look to be original. This meant taking more stuff apart than the ECE kit would require.


As I was doing this I noticed that the front yoke area of the rear end has been slinging gear lube onto the underside of the bed, and the shocks were coated with gear lube. Looks like my pinion seal is leaking. I pulled the rear end out also so that I can replace it.


I've heard some comments about trailing arms and some concern about whether they hold up as they get old. Besides looking for obvious cracks or rust-through, anyone have advice on how to tell whether mine are in good shape? Thanks.

After you clean all the gook off with a wire take a close look at the ends. As you can see in this picture these trailing arms can develop stress cracks. I welded mine up and also skip welded the seams.

[jonmc56]

Thanks Rex, that's what I was looking for - and thanks for including pics.

I haven't found any cracks yet, but have a lot more cleaning up to do. I removed the trailing arm bushings, it was a whole lot easier than I expected. Just drilled about 8 holes in the rubber (keeping the drill bit up against the inner metal sleeve), then tapped them out with a socket. Always wonder what went wrong when it goes that easy....


Maybe I could have gotten another 44 years out of these?


Only damage I've found is a bend on the underside of one of the arms, I'm assuming I don't have to worry about this (somebody please let me know if I should).

[jonmc56]

Got my pinion seal replaced and the rear end degreased/prepped for paint. In Oregon, when the weatherman says "dry today and tomorrow", it's an encoded message. What it really means is: "it's going to start raining right after you get the first coat of paint put down." Luckily I'm a longtime Oregonian, and can feel the rain coming. Sure enough, 5 minutes after I got the canopy up, it started raining...

[jonmc56]

A little bit of progress.

A-arms, springs and drop spindles installed. I want to correct something I said above. I said that the dimple in the lower a-arm needs to be pointing up when you get the cross shafts installed. Actually the dimple needs to be up and pointing slightly toward the center of the truck (away from the ball joint). Learned this when I installed mine. Fortunately it was fairly easy to rotate the shafts in my vice.


Bench bleeding the new MC. I don't know how guys who build show cars/trucks do it. I ended up with brake fluid in places that I didn't want it, and it ate a little of my new paint.


Can't wait to see how it stops!

[JRE]

looking good. are you coming tothe get together on the 23rd in Vancouver at Chevy Metal.