Is it possible to brace the steering arm?

[boostat4500]

I finally got my 71 Suburban back on the road after a long tear down for paint. I can't drive the thing in a straight line to save my life. It has 8" lift springs with 38x15.50r16 tires. The steering components are a drop pitman arm, drop ("S" shaped) drag link that's brand new, and raised steering arm with a Rancho dual stabilizer kit. The truck wanders horribly going down the road. I know the fat tires don't help. When I turn the steering shaft by hand, the only play I can find is the steering arm flexing. I can get almost a 1/8th turn just by hand with the engine off. There is no play in the steering box or drag link ball joints. Can the arm be braced somehow? I am most frustrated because I used to be able to drive this thing at 80mph and let go of the steering wheel no problem, it was that stable. The only change since then is going from 6" to 8" springs and the new drag link.

[bk2life]

did you change the pinion angle at all? camber/caster all the same?

and for clarification what is a steering arm? pitman arm? idler arm?

[b454rat]

Go crossover, no more wandering or bumpsteer....

[puppy]

Steering arm flexing? I don't see how that is possible. Make sure that the studs are tight. I have seen them slide on the mounting pad, but never flex.

Don't forget a significant amount of swarbay drop is required for an 8" lift.

[Mike C]

If you mean pitman arm that's on the box, I had to replace mine because the splines were so wallowed out you couldn't pinch it tight enough to work. PITA to find one when I was looking. I replaced mine with a '91 Suburban 4x4 which worked well.

[andrewmp6]

It needs crossover steering and maybe a track bar too.

[boostat4500]

Hello again. Sorry for the delayed response, got side tracked and hadn't touched the truck in a while. Anyways, I tried a few things that seemed to help. I tightened down the steering box adjuster bolt to eliminate a little play. Didn't really feel loose, but apparently was. I also shimmed the steering pump to drop the output pressure. The steering is better now, but still not what I would like. I know crossover steering is the way to go, I just can't get myself to spend another 7-800 bucks on this thing right now. But I might just have to bite the bullet. Are there any budget ways to do it by chance, like donor parts out of a truck that had it stock? My front axle is a Dana 44 out of a 79' F-250.

andrewmp6- by "trackbar", are you talking about a panhard bar?

[Mr. 250r]

Im wondering why are you running a ford axle under it? not anything against it but aren't those still driver side drop? and also crossover isn't that expensive you might be thinking of high steer its more like 4-500 =-p

[boostat4500]

The Ford axle is due to needing driver side drop to match the late model t-case (motor, trans, t-case out of an 01'). $4-500 would be much easier to do. I was basing my estimate off of going with an ORD kit ($425), plus machine work to my existing knuckle and steering box replacement. Can you give me a break down of how to do it that cheap. Thanks.

[b454rat]

Your knuckle should already have a flat top on it. Now absolutely nothing wrong with ORD, but they can be pricey. Should be someone near you that can do the knuckle. Dont' forget ARP studs. You can get the pieces individually and save a **** to of money. PartMike.com has pretty good prices on stuff, crossover steering arm and pitman arm. Each should be bout $100. Use a 3 piece tie rod off an 80s truck, blazer or burb. Get it shortened to length, install DRE and done. I did this to an 89 GMC that I SAS, saved myself alot of money.

[D.PASSMORE]

Crossover steering kit: http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana44crossover.htm
Steering Brace: http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm
2wd Quick RationGear box: http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/

Costly, but its worth it.